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What does everybody use for lubing the inside of the neck prior to full length resizing? All opinions welcome.

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Nuttin I just spray the cases with Hornady One Shot.

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You can spray, use powdered mica via a neck brush, or just swab a q-tip with lube and run it down in the neck.


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I can't remember who uses this technique, but I remember thinking it was a good one.

They have a film canister filled with #9 bird shot and a dry lube like mica, the mica is obviously coating the shot too. Then they just dip the case neck into the shot and some mica is left on/in the necks. Seems effective and would be quicker than a neck brush.

I may have to try it....now how much mica to add. Anyone know?

J

PS...Right now I spray w/ 1Shot.


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I always get the forum equivalent of a blank stare, but........

I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I keep several tins in the fridge. I stick the neck of case into the cold wax, and dab a little on my finger from the tin and lube the body. This keeps the lube off the shoulder.

Then I drop the cases into a parts bucket (the type with a basket that fits inside a bucket) filled with lacquer thinner. Let soak for a few, take the case out, run a neck brush into the necks, drop the basket full of cases back into the thinner, take 'em out and blow them dry wiyh compressed air.

First, if using any kind of exapander with conventional dies, lubing the neck goes a LONG way towards reducing the "pull" on the necks--which is one important factor in the concentricity issue.

Secondly, I don't like lube residue ANYWHERE on my caes, inside or out. I have a friend who sectioned some of his cases and found lube--after being fired--in the bottom corners of some of his cases, covered with a thin layer of carbon-like stuff. Most reloaders don't seem to pay much attention to residual lube. The lacquer thinner "kills" even water based lubes/oils.

About 10 years ago, I bought a decapper and started decapping my cases and throwing them into the case cleaner before sizing--it keeps crud from messing up the dies and just seems to make the sizing process better.

I have recently helped a buddy who was using the spray lube, although a big improvement over many of the earlier lubes, I still prefer the "Imperial Way" grin --but I concede their is often more than one way to skin a cat.......do what works for you.

As an aside, if you're loading for a hunting rifle--Partial Full Length Resizing (PFLR) is usually the way to go when making accurate and reliable feeding ammo--again, there are exceptions.

Casey


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https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=11&Number=1233002&Searchpage=1&Main=111558&Words=%2Bshot+%2Bmica&topic=0&Search=true#Post1233002


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I've been using Hornady One Shot. But I still seem to get a lot of friction when resizing. This leads to stretched cases. I clean my brass necks with a bronze brush before sizing. Just looking for a better way. Maybe I should'nt be FLR all the time.

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I am just starting to play around with the white mica. Previously, I have used powdered graphite in a small but deep canister tho dip the case in prior to sizing and it always worked well for me. I had the graphite spilled by a friend's child and boy was that a mess...

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I use Imperal sizing wax. I tried Hornady One Shot the other day and really like it. Will use it again.


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To each his own, but I like and use:
Forster Original Case Neck Lubricator

[img]http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/highresimage?saleitemid=301357[/img]

The Forster Case Graphiter features three brushes attached to a tough, impact resistant case with holes for bench mounting. The brushes accommodate all calibers from 22 to 35. Includes enough "motor mica" to process 2000 to 3000 cases.


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Until recently, I haven't felt the need to lube the case necks, because there isn't much drag. Even when I size .30-06 cases up to .338-06. I did, however, notice a HUGE amount of drag when I recently sized nickle plated .375 H&H and .280 Rem cases. I lube the necks on those case with that black powdery stuff Redding sells. It helps reduce the "drag" quite a bit.

Redding sells carbide sizer buttons for their dies, up to .338 caliber. Years ago, I used one in my .257 Roberts dies, and it worked really well. I just haven't taken the time to upgrade the rest of my dies with the carbide buttons yet. Some day....


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I use Midway's Case Neck Lubricator. Cheap.Easy.Works. Plus when neck sizing, you can easily see how far down the neck you are resizing.


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Originally Posted by alpinecrick
I always get the forum equivalent of a blank stare, but........

I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I keep several tins in the fridge. I stick the neck of case into the cold wax, and dab a little on my finger from the tin and lube the body. This keeps the lube off the shoulder.

Then I drop the cases into a parts bucket (the type with a basket that fits inside a bucket) filled with lacquer thinner. Let soak for a few, take the case out, run a neck brush into the necks, drop the basket full of cases back into the thinner, take 'em out and blow them dry wiyh compressed air.

First, if using any kind of exapander with conventional dies, lubing the neck goes a LONG way towards reducing the "pull" on the necks--which is one important factor in the concentricity issue.

Secondly, I don't like lube residue ANYWHERE on my caes, inside or out. I have a friend who sectioned some of his cases and found lube--after being fired--in the bottom corners of some of his cases, covered with a thin layer of carbon-like stuff. Most reloaders don't seem to pay much attention to residual lube. The lacquer thinner "kills" even water based lubes/oils.

About 10 years ago, I bought a decapper and started decapping my cases and throwing them into the case cleaner before sizing--it keeps crud from messing up the dies and just seems to make the sizing process better.

I have recently helped a buddy who was using the spray lube, although a big improvement over many of the earlier lubes, I still prefer the "Imperial Way" grin --but I concede their is often more than one way to skin a cat.......do what works for you.

As an aside, if you're loading for a hunting rifle--Partial Full Length Resizing (PFLR) is usually the way to go when making accurate and reliable feeding ammo--again, there are exceptions.

Casey


I can see the value in this method both in probally being the best lube method and truely lube free cases. I use Hornady one Shot almost exclusively but have used ISW on the same cases I was doing with one shot and there is a difference in the ISW's favor. If I run new brass through a sizer I always dap the necks first in ISW.
Gotta love Lee Collet dies.
Will shot with moly work the same as Mica?


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I run a finger that has been used to lube a few cases with Imperial lightly across the mouth of a case and follow it with a nylon brush RCBS sells for lubeing necks. Every 5-6 cases I repete to apply lube to the brush and the rest of the time I just run the brush in the case mouth to lube them. I`ve found enough lube remains on the brush to do a half dozen cases while useing Imperial and it has worked well for me.
A 1/2 hour in my tumbler cleans the cases after sizing and I`m ready to load.


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I use a dry lube that I made myself. It is a mixture of motor mica, graphite, moly and Imperial dry neck lube. Filled a tupperware sandwich box, snap top. Been using the same box for over 15 years. Dip the neck to the shoulder, brush in/out for one pass, size, wipe off with a paper towel.

The lead/steel shot with a dry lube has been available since moly became popular.Rick.

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Powdered mica with a brush.

MM

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I second MontanaMan's motion. Motor Mica in a one pound can will last a very, very, very long time. RE

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I've tried many different methods, both "grease" types and powder. I've gone back to the method RCBS suggests - simply rolling a snug fitting nylon brush on their lube pad with their lube. That applies such a small amount of lube it leaves a virtually dry surface, but sure makes a difference when the expander ball passes. I also like the way a tight brush cleans some of the carbon from the neck.


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I use the method Ol'JOe uses except I just rub the RCBS neck tool on my lube pad.


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I must be a real redneck on this subject...
In my way of thinking, the dies spindle comes into contact with each case that is sized...
So why neck lube 50 case necks, when you can lube ONE spindle???

Mainly using RCBS dies, the spindle is easily removed..and reinserted...

As far as lube, you guys will cringe, but I just give the spindle a shot of WD40... been working for me for the last 6 or 7 years..

I have to give it another shot about every 200 to 300 cases or so.... smaller necks require more often then larger bore capacities..

But then again, I use WD 40 for outside case lube also...
Just do a shot in a camping frying pan I picked up for about $7.00 years ago...I shoot a shot of WD 40 after I finish sizing the cases, then hang it off the side of my reload bench... it is ready to go the next time I need to use it, with the excess lube draining off onto a rag I keep under it..

After I size my cases, they do spend an hour or more in the tumbler before I deprime them and then reload them...

It isn't "gun tech politically correct" but it sure works for me and I can pick up WD 40 anywhere... a can lasts several years...for $2.00 or less..


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