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I own two Cannon gun safes, it's easier to move two into the basement than one large one & the second was a very good deal used. That is not the one I am having problems with.
They both have electronic key pad lock's. A while ago the first one started eating batteries, new batteries lasted maybe 3 month's and then less & less. I finally started to disconnect the batteries. That's when I should have contacted Cannon.
Then the lock just stopped working, several new batteries, nothing.
Cannon finally sent me a new lock set for it but apparently at this point getting it open is my problem.
Both safes have the same keypad and the same code so I tried plugging the working pad into the other safe, same issue, works on one safe but not the other. I assume the problem is on the inside of the safe which of course I cannot get to.
Anyone have similar issues?
Where I live there are two locksmith's I know of. One will never get anywhere near my guns and the other has not returned my calls so I assume he probably can't get into it.
Any good suggestions before I start testing how long it takes to actually break into (destroy) one?


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I’m a safe technician when you enter your comb do you here a click or a motor sound?

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I had the same problem about two years ago. Canon sent out a new electronic lock but I chose to have a mechanical/dial installed. It cost about $500 to drill out the old one and $100 for the mechanical lock.

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This is what scares me about electric keypad/Locks. I've heard about this happening quite often.


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"I fear all we have done is to awaken a sleeping giant and fill him with a terrible resolve" - Isoroku Yamamoto

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I try to convince people all the time to switch to mechanical locks people don’t like them because you got to remember how many time to dial left right left but they can be set to one number to make it easy

IC B2

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Can one even buy a safe with a mechanical lock anymore? Every one I look at is electronic these days.


The deer hunter does not notice the mountains

"I fear all we have done is to awaken a sleeping giant and fill him with a terrible resolve" - Isoroku Yamamoto

There sure are a lot of America haters that want to live here...



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Originally Posted by earlybrd
I’m a safe technician when you enter your comb do you here a click or a motor sound?


There is no sound at all, occasionally the 2 red lights come on at the top of the pad.

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I’m glad I have a mechanical, I like to pretend I’m getting in a safe full of money when I open it. I guess in a way I am.

Last edited by hanco; 08/18/19.
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Originally Posted by earlybrd
I try to convince people all the time to switch to mechanical locks people don’t like them because you got to remember how many time to dial left right left but they can be set to one number to make it easy


Is a user task or locksmith task? Cannons only?

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Does the key pad say S&G or NL?

IC B3

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16 bore answer to your question most of them can be converted over but best to leave it up to a locksmith

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Originally Posted by earlybrd
Does the key pad say S&G or NL?


The key pad is a "SecuRam"

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Try some new batteries energized or Duracell not cheap stuff chances are if that doesn’t work it needs to be drilled more than likely don’t know what kind of equipment your local guy has but a drill rig and a 1/4 inch hole is what it’s going to take the hole can be repaired with a tapered pin and either a new key pad or dial ring will cover the hole

Last edited by earlybrd; 08/18/19.
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I've tried new batteries.
I don't know what the local guy does or doesn't have, if he even knows how to drill it. No chance you can PM me?

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Cannon went to [bleep].


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Try new batteries. If that doesn't work, you can find a 14.4V cordless tool battery and jumpers to the connection points sometimes will be enough to make it go.

If contents have shifted and are contacting the door, sometimes that will be a problem with the locking rods inside. A few good whacks with a mallet (or a block of wood and a big hammer) low on the door sometimes will shift the contents enough to let you in.

If none of that works probably need a locksmith. Most locks can be drilled so you can save the safe and put another lock on it. With your permission, the smith can contact the manufacturer to get the drill points, i.e. the exact place to drill the hole. Lots of doors have a "hard" plate of steel protecting the lock mechanism and your average drill bit doesn't work very well. A locksmith probably has BTDT.

Yeah, I learned all this the hard way. I have a mechanical dial lock on it now that is slower to get in, but it works every time.


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Northern Jim I can’t even make a paragraph on a computer tried to pm you how bout you try me I know people all across the country and can send you to a reliable source unless your near me and I’ll do it myself

Last edited by earlybrd; 08/18/19.
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Originally Posted by Rooster7
This is what scares me about electric keypad/Locks. I've heard about this happening quite often.

Agreed. I've always thought that there's a far greater possibility that electronic locks will fail - likely at the most inopportune time.

I believe Fort Knox offers a safe with both an electronic lock and a mechanical one in order to address this very problem.

Last edited by High_Noon; 08/18/19.

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Originally Posted by earlybrd
Northern Jim I can’t even make a paragraph on a computer tried to pm you how bout you try me I know people all across the country and can send you to a reliable source unless your near me and I’ll do it myself



PM sent

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Originally Posted by cowdoc
Try new batteries. If that doesn't work, you can find a 14.4V cordless tool battery and jumpers to the connection points sometimes will be enough to make it go.

If contents have shifted and are contacting the door, sometimes that will be a problem with the locking rods inside. A few good whacks with a mallet (or a block of wood and a big hammer) low on the door sometimes will shift the contents enough to let you in.

If none of that works probably need a locksmith. Most locks can be drilled so you can save the safe and put another lock on it. With your permission, the smith can contact the manufacturer to get the drill points, i.e. the exact place to drill the hole. Lots of doors have a "hard" plate of steel protecting the lock mechanism and your average drill bit doesn't work very well. A locksmith probably has BTDT.

Yeah, I learned all this the hard way. I have a mechanical dial lock on it now that is slower to get in, but it works every time.


Thanks for the info, there is no reason for anything to be against the door but I'll try the battery jump. Don't think it can hurt anything.

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