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Originally Posted by lastround
I’ve heard the “messy” complaint about Wipe Out several times. Here’s how I use it.

Place the rifle in the cradle with the barrel as level as possible. Remove the bolt and insert a good quality bore guide with an o-ring that seals the chamber. (Sinclair makes one, any chambering). Cover the stock with waterproof material under the bore guide. I then lay a paper towel on top of the waterproof material. Insert the nozzle of the Wipe Out foam can over the muzzle. Push button and apply foam until it comes out of the end of the bore guide. Lift the paper towel from the stock cover while at the same time wiping any excess foam from the rear of the bore guide. Allow the foam to soak in the barrel (in my case, usually overnight). Use your cleaning rod thru the bore guide with dry patches to “wipe out” the throat and barrel. No fuss, no mess. Easy !


This is exactly how I do it, the foam never touches anything other than the bore. Those that are trying to jury rig stuff to squirt it through the chamber are making it way too hard, just put a bore guide in, lay an old towel over the stock beneath the end of the bore guide, and squirt from the muzzle. Go do something else for a few hours or go to bed and run a patch through it in the morning.

It doesn't even have to be one of the high dollar O ring style bore guides, I have a cheapie multi-caliber one and it works plenty well to keep any foam from getting into the action.

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Uhhhhhhhh NO.

I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...

Last edited by Sasha_and_Abby; 08/27/19.

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Yep.

In bolt rifles you know the bore is full when foam eases from the gas-port in the receiver ring.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.

DubThomas, jmp300wsm is absolutely right: The JB is just polishing steel at some point, especially after already getting just most copper copper out with Wipeout. And believe me, you do NOT want to keep polishing the bore. Most shooters assume a finely polished bore would result in less fouling, but it actually result in more copper, because the bullet makes more contact. Which is why barrel companies that lap bores use a small but definite grit.



Well, there ya go. I wondered WTH was going on. I figured there was no way my rifles were that dirty. Thanks for the information.


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If you care enough about your rifle to clean it , you should care enough to have a good bore guide and a good rod for it !
Place rifle in cradle level to muzzle slightly down.
Place bore guide into action.
Apply wipeout through the bore guide until it jus starts to come out the end of the barrel.
Couple hrs later rotate rifle in cradle 180 degrees , and reapply wipeout.
Couple hrs later ( I usually let it sit over night ) push 3-4 dry patches and done.
Pretty simple .

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Originally Posted by Sasha_and_Abby
Uhhhhhhhh NO.

I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...


Uhhhh, YES. I've been squirting wipe out from the muzzle for 10 years and never got a drop of it in the action or on the stock. The ones complaining about it getting in the action and on the wood are trying to squirt it from the chamber, why would you want to make things more difficult? The can's designed to squirt from the muzzle, that's why it's got the little reverse funnel on it.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.

So do you have a "sacrificial" case that you use for this purpose only? I would imagine the copper attacking properties of Wipeout wouldn't do any favors to a brass case that you planned to reload again.

I purchased the additional "applicator spout" for Wipeout to make it easier to apply from the chamber, but it doesn't work well with the smaller bores (IIRC it doesn't quite fit the chamber of my 223). Works great for everything bigger though.


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Originally Posted by Crow hunter
Originally Posted by Sasha_and_Abby
Uhhhhhhhh NO.

I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...


Uhhhh, YES. I've been squirting wipe out from the muzzle for 10 years and never got a drop of it in the action or on the stock. The ones complaining about it getting in the action and on the wood are trying to squirt it from the chamber, why would you want to make things more difficult? The can's designed to squirt from the muzzle, that's why it's got the little reverse funnel on it.



That's why I suggested the McDonalds straw earlier in the thread.... easy peasy and it all goes out the end of the barrel with no risk of coming back in the action.


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Originally Posted by screaminweasil
Originally Posted by Hudge
Just curious how much are ya'll paying for a bottle of Wipe-Out? I ask as I got a good deal on a Gunslick version I believe of it three years ago that is 3 times the size of a bottle of Wipe-Out for $7.99 or so I believe. I have been really happy with it, so I stocked up on it. Well, the earthquake that hit in November here knocked it all off my shelf and ruined my last unused can of it. I can't even find what I bought around here anymore, but I have seen Wipe-Out in most gun stores of late, but it's at least $15 a bottle. I'll probably go ahead and buy some though. Just curious what most in the lower 48 are paying for it.


Heres a two pack........

https://www.amazon.com/Gunslick-920...;qid=1566756561&s=gateway&sr=8-2


Heres a single.........3x the amount of wipeout for similar price and works just as good........atleast for those who have compared them side by side with equal rounds fired, same gun, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Gunslick-920...a1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Gunslick is what I have used the past 3-4 years, but my last bottle either fell off my work bench during our earthqauke in Nov. or the oldest so dropped it when he was cleaning his Mosin. Either way, I'm going for the Wipe-Out brand this go around.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.


This is how I've always done it. Well, that's a lie. The first time I did it with no way of "plugging" anything and had a huge mess. So, this is how I've always done it since the second time.


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For cripes sake!
Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end..
Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat.
Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel.
Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out..
For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber..
Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it..
NO MESS!
NONE!
[Linked Image]


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Originally Posted by Nrut
For cripes sake!
Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end..
Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat.
Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel.
Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out..
For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber..
Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it..
NO MESS!
NONE!
[Linked Image]

This, except that I remove the applicator once the foam stop its initial expansion, and I use the black tip for my .22 cal rifles, as well. I also hold the applicator tightly into the throat with my support hand. Works perfectly. Never any mess.

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Someone must have a barrel laying around to show us some pictures of what it is they are doing.....yes?


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I stick my left hand pinky in the chamber.................shoot the wipeout (or other brand foam) in from the muzzle with my right hand.......short bursts to regulate the amount. Not that hard to not create a mess.

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It's really pretty simple, just a small learning curve the first time you use it,

The bore guide idea is very good, provided the bore guide does not have a solvent port,, Tried the blue tape trick on the port, No Go.

Mule Deer's Idea is caveman simple, yet crazy smart, make sure the spent primer is still in, Ya!

The straw idea, with no way to stop backflow, there's better ideas here.

FWIW, 3 nights in a row here cleaning rifles with wipeout, I'll repeat myself, never seen such clean patches after the use of wipeout.

Related note, Range day last Sunday, Barnes TSX, I cleaned often during the time at the range and also just before leaving with Bore Tech Eliminator, (first time use for me),

Monday night copper was visible at the muzzle.. Not so cool.

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Place thumb over solvent port .

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My bore guides have solvent ports. I apply foam until I see the foam in the port, then stop with the foam. This is why I waterproof the area over the stock and why I cover with a paper towel. When the foam shows up at the port, I use the towel to catch the excess and wipe the bore guide. The foaming stops within seconds. That’s how I do it, but do whatever works for you, but don’t try to tell me it’s too messy. It’s just easier fo me to apply Wipe Out from the muzzle.


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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by Nrut
For cripes sake!
Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end..
Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat.
Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel.
Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out..
For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber..
Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it..
NO MESS!
NONE!
[Linked Image]

This, except that I remove the applicator once the foam stop its initial expansion, and I use the black tip for my .22 cal rifles, as well. I also hold the applicator tightly into the throat with my support hand. Works perfectly. Never any mess.


+1 People making too much out of the process.

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Originally Posted by DubThomas
My guns must be dirty as heck then. I've used Wipeout and the accelerator until the patches came out clean and then for schitts and giggles ran some JB Bore though the barrel and it comes out black as heck. I'm working on a CZ 527 in .223 right now using Sweet's and alternating with JB and its the same thing. Let it soak for 15 minutes, dry patch it out then a little JB. Repeat. Maybe I need some Montana cleaner.

I've gotten several rifles clean down bare metal before, but it was a long process.


Consider a new barrel on the CZ 527. I had 4 replacement guns before they gave me my money back.

Last edited by yobuck; 08/28/19.
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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I try to keep things simple........chamber a fired case, then use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore...........


Pretty cut & dry.


I learned this the hard way. First time I used WipeOut I cleaned the barrel & then put the gun back in the safe. Had no idea it would clean the chamber so well that the bolt would lock on the first firing. It literally glued the action shut. It took about 10 fired rounds to even loosen the action to its normal function. Almost shut down my range trip.

That's when I adopted MD's method of using a fired case.


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