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There is nothing to be gained by trimming 9mm brass.
Very true. I can't add anything useful to that statement. Especially since rounds that headspace on the case mouth shorten.
Swifty
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NVhntr, not trying to be a wise guy here, just trying to understand.....are you saying that a difference of over .010" length of 9mm cases makes little difference? I do realize it isn't the same as loading for a rifle with an attempt to make 1/4" MOA, but with the .45 Colt, with very much case length variance at all, it can effect the crimping operation. Is there any need to crimp 9mm cases?
We should change our politicians like we change dirty diapers.... and for the same reason.
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Your die set should be a taper crimp for 9mm. Light taper crimp is all that’s needed.
Swifty
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As said above, you don't roll crimp 9mm. If you are shooting 9mm 50 yard benchrest you might see a gain from trimming,
Let's Go Brandon! FJB
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NVhntr, not trying to be a wise guy here, just trying to understand.....are you saying that a difference of over .010" length of 9mm cases makes little difference? I do realize it isn't the same as loading for a rifle with an attempt to make 1/4" MOA, but with the .45 Colt, with very much case length variance at all, it can effect the crimping operation. Is there any need to crimp 9mm cases? With no offense intended - time to take a step back and recognize that loading for pistols is different than loading for rifles. Different requirements, different pass/fail criteria, and different oddities to be aware of. NVhntr is right, don't bother trimming 9mm or any other semi-auto pistol brass. It's a waste of time. If you want to spend time picking through brass, sort by headstamp. It's not necessary, but you can sort out the bad stuff anyway. Discard or at least set aside anything Berdan primed, crimped primer pockets (WMA and FC NT headstamps), stepped cases (FM headstamp and others), and any CBC or Aguila brass. Don't use a heavy crimp. If you're sizing and expanding the brass correctly, you don't need a crimp at all, and just enough to remove the case mouth flare is good. This is especially true for plated or cast bullets; jacketed are more forgiving but even then, a heavy crimp is just unnecessary and does not make better loads.
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Power Pistol, Titegroup, HS-6 and Red Dot are the most consistently accurate powders I’ve tried. I can’t really recall any of them being more or less dirty in any significant way that much matters. Good luck.
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NVhntr, not trying to be a wise guy here, just trying to understand.....are you saying that a difference of over .010" length of 9mm cases makes little difference? I do realize it isn't the same as loading for a rifle with an attempt to make 1/4" MOA, but with the .45 Colt, with very much case length variance at all, it can effect the crimping operation. Is there any need to crimp 9mm cases? More than likely, the case is headspaced on the extractor anyway, most 1911 are that way, in reality. Pistol cases actually SHORTEN when fired, especially in a loose chamber, so trimming cases is a waste of time.
You can roll a turd in peanuts, dip it in chocolate, and it still ain't no damn Baby Ruth.
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I've had good results with W231 and Universal in service pistol cartridges.
Last edited by SargeMO; 10/30/19.
Direct Impingement is the Fart Joke of military rifle operating systems. ⓒ
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I use green dot in 9 mm, 40, 45acp, 38, and 357. It works well in each one.
If you find yourself in a hole....quit digging
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I do have Green Dot, but do not see any load information for it on Alliant's site.
Made a few rounds using Power Pistol and the Rem 6 1/2's yesterday. They all went bang.
Next problem. The pistol in question is a Springfield XDS with a REAL lawyer trigger, in excess of a 9# pull!! My wife can barely pull the trigger. Needless to say, she can hit nothing with it and my accuracy is no doubt effected. Would like to get it down to 3-4 pounds. Any suggestions? The PRP springer kit looks promising. Has anyone used one of their spring kits? If so, is there much difficulty with installing? I have replaced and worked on several bolt action triggers, but this is a different ball game. The nearest operation I have performed to this is a trigger spring kit in a Marlin M60 with much fewer springs to deal with!
We should change our politicians like we change dirty diapers.... and for the same reason.
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I do have Green Dot, but do not see any load information for it on Alliant's site.
Older but I still use the data. Information only.
Swifty
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9mm has so many good powders that can be used. I have been using Power Pistol, VV N340 and Accurate #5 for many years with all bullet weights and no problems, all accurate and no loads too dirty.
"It's sad that governments are chiefed by the double tongues." Ten Bears NRA Benefactor LIfe Member USCG Veteran
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Thanks a million Swifty52! Sure is something how powder companies are giving out fewer and fewer loads than in the past. The Hodgdon site used to have VOLUMNS more loads for powders on their site than they do now. Yes, PP is leaving very, very little residue. Accuracy? I need to either get a trigger job on this Springfield Armory XD-S or learn how to keep it from pulling to the right just as the sear engages when shooting it left handed or pulling up when shooting it right handed. Correction to an earlier post: Tested the trigger pull a few more times and it is actually 7 1/4#, NOT 9#! Apparently had the gauge pulling too high on the trigger. For defense purposes, I got Lehigh Controlled Fracture .651" and Lehigh Extreme Penetrator .634". Both are much longer than my practice bullets Hornady solids .451". With the cases loaded to 6.5gr PP, the base of the Hornadys just do touch the powder. To load the other two so they will fit in the magazine, it would take quite a bit of powder compression. Would that be remotely safe? I believe even backing off a grain, the Lehigh's would still have to compress the powder for correct length.
Last edited by DannoBoone; 11/06/19.
We should change our politicians like we change dirty diapers.... and for the same reason.
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