Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors 99 Carrier Identification

I never thought of that!

I didn't think mine looked like the .250s in the picture. The tabs are different and the cavity where where the cartridge lays looks more diagonal. So I ordered one from Numrich before I went to bed last night. Looks like all you guys think I had the correct one in the gun. Oh well, maybe the new one will help. I've adjusted them on other 99s just fine. I've tried to adjust this particular one probably close to 100 times over the last year and can't get it to feed right.

One thing I haven't messed with is taking them apart. Is it pretty straight forward, only the threads are left handed? Could someone have taken it apart and didn't assemble it correctly? I was so happy the way the refinish and other repairs turned out on this rifle, but beyond that it's done nothing but piss me off.

Probably the right rotor , spindle head likley no good, carrier spindle spring may have come disingaged or broken . I think the 4 notches are indexed with individual bullets in conjunction with the rotor stop and the oversized one is too loose for feeding. Reverse threads on the spindle nut to see the spring.

I thought of that but forgot to mention it. I've seen that one before, especially with the older style assemblies.

The 4 notches on the spindle head allow 1/4 turn adjustment of the spring tension. The spindle head screw holds it stationary when installed.

Numrich has cartridge guides to. I ordered a new carrier spindle assembly and the cartridge guide in hopes that one or both will fix it. The guide in the rifle looks like the pictures I've seen of a .250 but maybe it's [bleep] up or something. I've found ordering from Numrich is crap shoot but hopefully I'll end up with what I was after.

If the carrier spindle spring was not engaged or was broken, wouldn't it not work at all?

Thanks for all of the input guys, I really appreciate it. This has been stuck in my craw for about a year now and I really need to resolve the issue for the sake of what little sanity I have left.

If the spring s not properly engaged inside the rotor it can bind. How it engages depends on the type of rotor. That assembly underwent about 3 stages of evolution. I've never seen a broken spring but I guess that little tip could break off which would bring erratic results too.

Hope Numrich really has the right parts. Your experience with them mirrors mine so I hate to recommend them.

damnesia,

Don't be skeerd! You can do it!

I recently won an 1895 at auction pretty cheap. I think mostly because with the action open, the rotor would not turn. At all. Upon disassembly, I found the tip of the rotor spring not only was not engaged, but was also badly bent. Also, the rotor was completely fouled with verdigris (not sure that's the right word. Green goo with the consistency of Play-dough). Completely disassembled the whole action, gently cleaned everything, bent the spring more like it is supposed to be and viola!

Do you experts really think that slot that has been modified will cause a problem? I don't see how. Please explain.

Thinks,

Doug

The enlarged slot is 1 of 4. You only use 1 at a time. If not engaged it is not a problem. Even if it was used I don't think it would have much ill effect.

I got all obsessive again with this thing last night. The rotor doesn't hit the guide until the "blade" contacts it after rotating 5 positions with with no cases in it. I also adjusted the tension to every position up until it was obviously too tight and too loose. Same results as always. I can get it to where 2 shells can be inserted and feel correct, then the third one has a little trouble and the 4th has a lot of trouble. I can never get the 5th shell even close to going in no matter the spring tension. After this happens I back the tension off one slot and the same thing happens. I back the tension off until the cartilages won't cycle at all due to low or no tension ( this is a total PITA to get them out at this point ). It feels like something is jamming. Probably good to mention that these are factory silver tips loads, but the identical thing happens with hand loads. One thing I want to confirm is correct, is when looking at the carrier spindle front, the slotted nut you adjust it with, I can see the tip of the spring next to the nut, is that correct? Also, the round counter works appropriately for the number or rounds in the magazine.

That doesn't sound right at all. Have you had the carrier assembly apart? I'd like to see pics of the individual parts.

I haven't had it apart, I've been reluctant to do it. I'll give it a go later tonight and post pictures. I'm sure one of you fellas will answer any question about getting back together.

I've read these are left handed threads which makes sense. However I haven't seen anything about the slotted nut being staked but mine is definitely is. Am I correct in thinking this should not be staked?

damnesia, for what it's worth, my 52 EG mine is staked also. What I don't know is when it was. I'm pretty sure it was taken apart and worked on somewhere over the years.

Jeff G. Looks like my old pics, I lost all of them when my host went tit's up.

To me the rotor looks like a 250 rotor he has.

Yes, that lock nut is staked on and left handed. The more you reveal about the problem the more I think your problem is inside the rotor. You need to get it apart to diagnose.

I tried to get this thing apart for about 1.5 hours last night. It doesn't want to come apart. Going to try again today.

tal35, if you go to photobucket you might still be able salvage them. GeneB can help.

If anyone has tal35's parts photos we can put them back in the Misc Good Info section.

This thing will not come apart. I even put the steel end between two piece of wood in a vise and broke the blade off the screwdriver I was using to try to remove the nut. I even got brave and had ground the staked area down. It didn't loosen even 1 mm. I sure hope Numrich comes through because the spring is [bleep] up for sure now. If the one from Numerich works out, my guess is that it won't have the old style script/font on it. If I can get the new one apart, I will cut the end off the threaded steel rod on the old one and see if I can swap the brass. I don't think this much trouble is normal or I would have seen it mentioned in some of the threads, am I wrong about this?

left hand thread