Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Drill bit sharpeners....

I got the latest they they put out.

It does a darn good job up to a 1/2.

I sharpened a lot of bits and no matter what kind they got sharp.

I've been a tool and die maker since 1974 and I don't disagree with anything you say. I can sharpen down to about 5/16 by hand these days, my eyes aren't what they used to be. When I say, "..I can sharpen..." I mean with a point angle and clearance appropriate for the metal being drilled and accurate enough to not go more than a couple thou oversize.

Like me, it probably grates on your nerves a little to hear "drills" referred to as "drill bits."

Try using a 45 pd magnetic attach drill 60ft up in the air laying cable tray and the good idea fairy in the company you worked for bought a bit sharpener thinking he is saving money being a brownnoser.....
Also the same assclown that " saved" money buying cheap bits.

Got to the point where we would buy our own bits to get schit done and not waste time being aggravated.....

Fugging other crews using company bits wanting to borrow ours so they dont look bad and fall behind.
Fugg you buy your own.....


Good hard heat treated bits are worth the extra money spent.

We’re these the fat guys sleeping in the truck you ratted out?

😂😂👍

Nope that dude was a dow corning fat union fugg.
One of the head safety peckerheads for em.

Fugging buncha bullschitt.

LOL!!!

Fugging Hemlock solar panel plant project.

Place made Soylendra look like small pototoes.

Never made the national news...
Schitt got smothered big time.

I've done a bit of bit sharpening with a grinder with limited success. Not for several years though. One of the big box stores up here carries a 300 bit set of titanium coated drill bits up to half inch. You get one 1/2 inch, two 7/16 and like 30 of the teeny ones it varies. The set usually goes for $150 and every once in a while they blow them out less than a third of that. I wouldn't call them excellent bits but I'd call them good when they dull, which takes a while, they go bye-bye. Happiness is a new Chinese bit. lol

You used the phrase “fat fück” like 11 times in the official grievance letter.

I was fuggin dying reading that thing.

Knowledge of hand sharpening plus a good drill to begin with will put you out front in the long run. Every time.

Says a country boy whom was taught as a teenager on how to sharpen a drill by hand, & who's first real job was with a nationally known twist drill company. No chit.

Titanuim Nitride coating makes a cheap Chinese bit cut pretty good- - - - -for one hole in thin metal. Halfway through if it's more than 1/4" thick, then it dulls, skates, and burns. Resharpening doesn't help - - - -unless you're drilling holes in warm butter.
Jerry

I've got a Drill Dr I will ship for $50 if anyone is interested.

It was worth the 125 dollar lawyer just to make it record in their files
At dow corning

L

" my wrongful termination" suit for reporting the truth about the scumball union safety fugg.

So I used a few "descriptive" words in that intial safety report manhole cover on that fat fugg.

Some mutha fugga,s need a dressing down no matter the " price".

Lol!!

It was worth it!!!

Agree that if you're not going to do them by hand, it takes a lot of machine to make a good repeatable edge. I have done by hand for 20 plus years and when the angles are right....it's as good as it gets. I recently purchased a oliver drill sharpening grinder....and it's quite humbling.

Unless you have to meet tolerance on your holes....buy a point gauge, a stone dresser and get busy.

An old machinist we used for years would just walk to the grinder, and do it.

Nope. If you know you are going to need a drill bit that will drill a lot holes and not break from you trying to force it spend a few dollars for a good drill bit, same goes for taps. I buy mine at the nearby Fastenal store. If they don't have what you need they can usually get one by the next day. The drill bits you normally get from Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight and etc. are ok for drilling soft materials like wood, plastic and aluminum but not tempered steel. . I drilled 150 1/4" holes in mild steel with the same bit and it's still sharp. I'm not saying buy a whole set of expensive drill bits I can't afford that either, just the ones you use a lot.

I follow machining forums regularly. Drill Doctors are not easy to use, but evidently they will work very well, once the learning curve is done. I don't have one, I free hand mine on a grinder, they aint pretty, but I try to keep each side the same and be sure you are grinding a relief under the cutting edge.

It's fairly easy to grind back relief on a drill bit, and they are referred to a "bit" regardless what some of these exspurts attest to, by grinding on the face of the grinding wheel (not the side). You hold the drill parallel to the ground at the proper cutting angle just above the tool rest. You lift the drill up keeping it parallel to the ground while pushing the drill into the wheel following the radius of the wheel. The only time you grind on the side of the wheel is when you're splitting the point.

Also I agree with getting a new drill instead of sharpening when you're using a drill smaller than a #40 drill bit

That's how it's done.


Horse's wear a BIT

Drills cut holes

IDK
It's an art a level or two above sharpening your chain-saw chain
In this sort of thing I always default to the tool that is at least 25 years old. Or more. Back before engineered obsolescence was a thing.

Or the guy who can hand sharpen it w/o screwing it up. Best to buy him a few lunches in exchange for teaching you the little tricks...

Just send them back to Hughes for a touch up....Obscure reference to a different size drill. Some will get it.



mike r

What about a lathe tool bit, Ted?

Though I do get anal when someone refers to scale being a ruler...

I've also reversed the process by grinding in the opposite direction and twisting the drill as I'm moving down when I want an aggressive back angle. Either one works, grinding up is easier to master.