Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles 6.5 prc Input requested....

The goal is to have your rifle worn enough to compete with Pat....

With no disrespect to Pat...

My goals are my goals. I only have myself to compete with and please. YMMV....

No understand amigo...

Josh, I really like your rifle. I keep going shorter on barrels but haven't got into suppressors yet. What kind of speeds are you getting at 18"? Also, what's the muzzle diameter on a 2b at 18? How much muzzle diameter do you need to seat a suppressor whit a 5/8 24 thread?

Thanks,
Bb

.710 minimum with .750 preferred so I’ve been told.

Which depending on shank length etc will leave a 2b less than 16

All I meant is I hope to use this rifle so much that it has the battle scars and wear marks much like many of Scenarshooters firearms.

Copy that. Mines only been through 2 hunts but I'm done with the rifle thing. This one will stick around for a while.

Burleyboy... make sure you get a cut rifle barrel vs. buttoned if you going that thin with a threaded break.

139 Scenars are running 2965 with H4350. Haven’t tried any other powders.
Muzzle OD is .725.
1” shank length.

The minimal muzzle diameter is highly debated, but the general rule of thumb is to allow a .050” shoulder for your suppressors to seat against. I’ve had barrels with a skosh less shoulder than that and I’ve had zero issues.

This barrel actually started life as a 6.5 CM barrel. Fell into a deal on another Tikka CTR and sent it back to Shaen for a rechamber. Was a bit hesitant at first, but after studying some Quickload numbers I decided to give it a go. Couldn’t be more pleased.

Can you elaborate on this please?

Bump

Josh,

Here you go (a demo video) .. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/

The issue is that button rifled barrels compress the steel outward, so if you cut away metal too much (any hunting profile) the end of the barrel where you cut the thread bells out (expands)...
The video does a great job of validating this, I did it myself on my own lathe and when I got down below .2” of sidewall I really started to notice it, frankly I just wanted to see it for myself.
When I checked the pressure requirements for cartridges and side wall barrel steel most got down to .15” as safe... for those pressures, BUT cutting a thread takes that down another .03 or more.. so most guys won’t thread a barrel under .7” , and a lot of field sporter rifles have .63” or so muzzles. On a 06... .63 - .30 = .33 for side all = .165” .... you get it.

Anyway - cut rifled barrels don’t do this because they don’t have that internal stress from button riffling...

It can be fixed so it doesn’t impact your groups if you did it to a button rifled barrel but you have to remove the lose rifling on a lathe to do so..

Regards,
Spot

Understood...thanks.

Knew barrels could/would bell but never thought about cut vs button being different in that aspect. Makes perfect sense however.

You can tell from the video that it was news to some very experienced people.... it pays to listen to the old guys when you become a smith, and then experiment to see validate those.

Tuebor action, 24" bartlein barrel, cant remember the stock. Loaded 130 swift sciroccos at 3050. Half inch, but stock needs to be touched up as the groups are stringing. Expecting .25 when we touch that up. Just got loads worked out late fall. Daughter pounded two whitetail doe. Impressive performance.