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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,578
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,578 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Glue a dowel in the existing hole.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,252 Likes: 5
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,252 Likes: 5 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Well the right way is to fill, let cure, and redrill. Short of that, for .03 ( couple is two, few is three, some is four?) You might take a small rat-tail file and work it in the right direction, partially fill and see if you can drillb an appropriately located pilot hole..or use the splinter down the side you want to move away from... but really there are a thousand ways to screw-up and put tension, pressure on the action, which is why there is a right way..... When a luthier is repairing holes for tuning machines in an instrument head they will often drill out the hole and glue and tap a tight fitting dowel of like wood into the hole. Sand it flush and redrill it. Can't hardly tell it was even done.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,019 Likes: 3
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,019 Likes: 3 |
A standard Doweling Jig works wonders... ![[Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/716GfEIi0oL._AC_SL1000_.jpg)
Padded VA Hospital Rooms for $1000 Alex My ignoree,s will never be Rock Stars on 24 hr campfire.....Like me!!!! What are psychotic puppet hunters?
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. A drill will always follow an existing hole. You can do it by chucking up a center cutting end mill in a drill press if you can figure out a good way to hold the stock. We have a few end mills. And we have, forgive me but do not know the nomenclature, a Bridgeport milling machine? with a flat table mostly used for cutting keyways in stub shafts. I think I could square the stock up, pad it, and lock it into a drill press vise. Then cut the hole out that I need.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 79,321 Likes: 2
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 79,321 Likes: 2 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. A drill will always follow an existing hole. You can do it by chucking up a center cutting end mill in a drill press if you can figure out a good way to hold the stock. We have a few end mills. And we have, forgive me but do not know the nomenclature, a Bridgeport milling machine? with a flat table mostly used for cutting keyways in stub shafts. I think I could square the stock up, pad it, and lock it into a drill press vise. Then cut the hole out that I need. That should work.
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15 |
Just be forewarned, clamping something oval, or round, made of wood, in a flat walled vise, securely, and squarely without leaving marks, requires patience and preparation....
Luckily my most recent misaligned result was a case handle and not an action screw. So the misalignment was not critical and hidden by the leather wrap...
-OMotS
"If memory serves fails me..."
Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "
Television and radio are most effective when people question little and think even less.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Well the right way is to fill, let cure, and redrill. Short of that, for .03 ( couple is two, few is three, some is four?) You might take a small rat-tail file and work it in the right direction, partially fill and see if you can drillb an appropriately located pilot hole..or use the splinter down the side you want to move away from... but really there are a thousand ways to screw-up and put tension, pressure on the action, which is why there is a right way..... Yes, I have not actually got a measurement yet. At this point, all I know is that I can barely get the action screw into the action and it is laying hard against the front of the hole in the stock. The pillars are going to be considerably oversize. I will need a much larger hole than the 9/32" which is now in the stock. I am far more comfortable with a cutting torch and a welding stinger in my hand. I am not much of a woodworker. I was not aware that I could epoxy a hardwood dowel into the existing hole and redrill. That does sound like an excellent way to get it done. What type driil would one recommend to avoid splintering the surface of the walnut as the drill comes through the bottom side?
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,861
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,861 |
Are you talking about moving the hole a couple of .100" or .001" ?
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15 |
I will defer to others on type of drill and how to best drill a stock
But suggest that rotation speed may be a factor. (Although that may be more for metal than wood)
-OMotS
"If memory serves fails me..."
Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "
Television and radio are most effective when people question little and think even less.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,755
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,755 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Well the right way is to fill, let cure, and redrill. Short of that, for .03 ( couple is two, few is three, some is four?) You might take a small rat-tail file and work it in the right direction, partially fill and see if you can drillb an appropriately located pilot hole..or use the splinter down the side you want to move away from... but really there are a thousand ways to screw-up and put tension, pressure on the action, which is why there is a right way..... Yes, I have not actually got a measurement yet. At this point, all I know is that I can barely get the action screw into the action and it is laying hard against the front of the hole in the stock. The pillars are going to be considerably oversize. I will need a much larger hole than the 9/32" which is now in the stock. I am far more comfortable with a cutting torch and a welding stinger in my hand. I am not much of a woodworker. I was not aware that I could epoxy a hardwood dowel into the existing hole and redrill. That does sound like an excellent way to get it done. What type driil would one recommend to avoid splintering the surface of the walnut as the drill comes through the bottom side? With a flat surface, a backer board will help avoid splintering. Unfortunately, you don’t have that. What you can do is use a Brad point drill and when you are most of the way through switch to a very small drill. The through hole from the small bit will be your guide so you can flip the stock and drill with the Brad point from the other side.
He who joyfully marches in rank and file has already earned my contempt. He has been given a large brain by mistake, since for him the spinal cord would suffice.
- Albert Einstein
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5,681 Likes: 1
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5,681 Likes: 1 |
Here is a hint when drilling thin metal like the fire door. Bristoe's jig, and put a piece of old levis under the drill before drilling. Helps keep the hole round in thin metal.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,263
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,263 |
Are you talking about moving the hole a couple of .100" or .001" ? Sounds like he needs it to move ~.030" or so (a few hundredths).
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17,246 Likes: 15 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Well the right way is to fill, let cure, and redrill. Short of that, for .03 ( couple is two, few is three, some is four?) You might take a small rat-tail file and work it in the right direction, partially fill and see if you can drillb an appropriately located pilot hole..or use the splinter down the side you want to move away from... but really there are a thousand ways to screw-up and put tension, pressure on the action, which is why there is a right way..... Yes, I have not actually got a measurement yet. At this point, all I know is that I can barely get the action screw into the action and it is laying hard against the front of the hole in the stock. The pillars are going to be considerably oversize. I will need a much larger hole than the 9/32" which is now in the stock. I am far more comfortable with a cutting torch and a welding stinger in my hand. I am not much of a woodworker. I was not aware that I could epoxy a hardwood dowel into the existing hole and redrill. That does sound like an excellent way to get it done. What type driil would one recommend to avoid splintering the surface of the walnut as the drill comes through the bottom side? With a flat surface, a backer board will help avoid splintering. Unfortunately, you don’t have that. What you can do is use a Brad point drill and when you are most of the way through switch to a very small drill. The through hole from the small bit will be your guide so you can flip the stock and drill with the Brad point from the other side. I had forgotten this trick. Or to mention it anyhow...
-OMotS
"If memory serves fails me..."
Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "
Television and radio are most effective when people question little and think even less.
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 762
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 762 |
lots of tools available for drilling perpendicular if you are standing up and wood or metal is on a flat surface.
yesterday I was trying to drill a hole on a fire door without removing the door and i made a mess , any jig or tricks you are aware of? Take a flat piece of 3/4" thick steel, put it in a drill vise, then drill a hole through it with a drill press .003" larger than the drill you're going to use on the job you're doing. Hold the piece of steel with the hole in it flat against whatever you're drilling, then use the hole in the steel as a guide to drill through. 1/2" plywood works just as well....
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289 |
What I've done in the past, I take the stock , flip it upside down and mount it to a plate strapping it down by the forearm. I make a piloted drill by grabbing a regular twist drill that is 1/16" oversized flr the pillars being used. I swirl grind a pilot on the tip of the drill that is slightly undersized for the existing holes in the stock. I then regrind the cutting edge of the drill to a flat 0° cutting edge. This prevents the drill from pulling through the hole on it's own and splintering the wood. I mount the pillars to the action, dry fit the action to the stock. If the pillars don't drop into the stock freely I use a 1/2" drum sander tool mounted in a dremel tool to grind clearance in the offending hole. YMMV, good luck. It ain't rocket science.
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,073
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,073 |
For smaller holes up to 3/8" check out Big Gator Tools. also have jigs for Taping. https://biggatortools.com/
Gun Owners of America
Escapee's RV Club
Elks
Moose
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7 |
Are you talking about moving the hole a couple of .100" or .001" ? Sounds like he needs it to move ~.030" or so (a few hundredths). Yes it appears to be about .030". When I get the pillars, I will pull out the calipers and get an accurate measurement. Or else I will fill the holes in the stock, shape a couple of 1/4 inch bolts into center punches, thread them into the action and use them to mark exact hole placement. A fixture for holding the stock in perfect orientation for drilling will be the toughest problem, I think.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 25,945 Likes: 7 |
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks.
I have a very similar problem, except in my case, I need to move a hole.......in a walnut Rem 700 stock.
The hole for the front action screw in the stock is out of alignment with the hole in the action by a few 1/100s of an inch. I have pillars coming from PT&G. But I need to figure how to keep the drill from centering on the old hole when I drill oversize for the pillars.
Maybe I can get the machinist at work to do it on his Bridgeport. Well the right way is to fill, let cure, and redrill. Short of that, for .03 ( couple is two, few is three, some is four?) You might take a small rat-tail file and work it in the right direction, partially fill and see if you can drillb an appropriately located pilot hole..or use the splinter down the side you want to move away from... but really there are a thousand ways to screw-up and put tension, pressure on the action, which is why there is a right way..... Yes, I have not actually got a measurement yet. At this point, all I know is that I can barely get the action screw into the action and it is laying hard against the front of the hole in the stock. The pillars are going to be considerably oversize. I will need a much larger hole than the 9/32" which is now in the stock. I am far more comfortable with a cutting torch and a welding stinger in my hand. I am not much of a woodworker. I was not aware that I could epoxy a hardwood dowel into the existing hole and redrill. That does sound like an excellent way to get it done. What type driil would one recommend to avoid splintering the surface of the walnut as the drill comes through the bottom side? With a flat surface, a backer board will help avoid splintering. Unfortunately, you don’t have that. What you can do is use a Brad point drill and when you are most of the way through switch to a very small drill. The through hole from the small bit will be your guide so you can flip the stock and drill with the Brad point from the other side. Thankyou very much.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 16,971 Likes: 1
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 16,971 Likes: 1 |
Take a piece of plywood, and screw 2x4’s into it in the shape of the frame.
Drills your practice holes through it, and if it works, hold it up to the door and then just drill the rest of the way through, using a bolt to hold the drilled holes in line with the plywood template.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 14,322
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 14,322 |
Drill bushing's are cheap and the only way to go in making a jig for repetitive use.
Phil
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