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Have had a piece of maple butcher block counter top that I’d like to re purpose as a workbench top.

What would you recommend to use to seal it that would be reasonably resistant to oils and solvents?

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Mineral oil or a melted bee's wax treatment.


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Epoxy or fiberglass resin would be first class, I think.

Quicker would be a couple coats of shellac and then a couple coats of exterior high gloss polyurethane.

But, I’ll defer to my coatings consultant, Sitka. wink


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Quicker would be a couple coats of shellac and then a couple coats of exterior high gloss polyurethane

This would be my choice for a workbench.

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BLO. Thin out the first few coats. Apply. Let it soak for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. Do this until it doesn’t absorb anymore. Makes for a nice finish and basically becomes waterproof. I’ve used it on butcher block counters in the outdoor kitchen. Held up beautifully.

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I have done several butcher block bench tops using Deft Wood Finish, it is easy to use and is resistant to oils and solvents used in the shop environment.

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Epoxy id hard to beat. Poke around the West Systems web site for a lot of good info. Personally I went with plastic coated Masonite for cheap & easy replacement when it gets ugly.


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I know they sell an epoxy kit at Menards for doing bar tops and such, it’s in the wall coverings Dept. That being said a few good oil and wax treatments will probably surprise you.

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Can we see some pics of this wood?

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Originally Posted by hunter4623
BLO. Thin out the first few coats. Apply. Let it soak for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. Do this until it doesn’t absorb anymore. Makes for a nice finish and basically becomes waterproof. I’ve used it on butcher block counters in the outdoor kitchen. Held up beautifully.

Sitka Deer will be along shortly to comment on your BLO job... eek laugh

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Equal parts BLO, mineral spirits and either varnish or poly...
One of the oldest wood finishes there is, looks great and can take some abuse...

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you could go ahead and mix some Hoppe's, with some of the oils you're hoping not to stain it with, apply a couple of heavy coats and be done with it.... that way its at least evenly stained?


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Originally Posted by AKA_Spook
you could go ahead and mix some Hoppe's, with some of the oils you're hoping not to stain it with, apply a couple of heavy coats and be done with it.... that way its at least evenly stained?

5W30?


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I used Waterlox on my reloading bench. Very durable, water and gun cleaning solvent proof. Can be used on wood floors, cabinets, tables, bar tops, etc. It really brings out the grain and beauty of the spalting rock maple top.

Waterlox Tung Oil

Last edited by sackett; 02/24/20.
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What's a good source for cheap or at least reasonably priced butcher block? I need a piece 60"x30" for a reloading bench.


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Originally Posted by High_Noon
What's a good source for cheap or at least reasonably priced butcher block? I need a piece 60"x30" for a reloading bench.


Hers the one I bought

https://www.menards.com/main/kitche...chbblock36x72/p-1444430610433-c-3629.htm

Put one of these in the garage
https://www.samsclub.com/p/ultra-heavy-duty-workbench/prod1490086?xid=plp_product_1_2

Last edited by Swifty52; 02/24/20.


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Thanks Swifty52, that's a good price for a piece that size.


l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
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My butcher block type wood laminate reloading bench, after sanding, got a coat of clear satin polyurethane varnish ten years ago - it has not been blemished or otherwise injured since.


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You could tack down a piece of plywood, and change it when it gets beat up.


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Originally Posted by wabigoon
You could tack down a piece of plywood, and change it when it gets beat up.



Yes, but a butcher block reloading bench is so much more....something. Probably loading a lot of .270 Win.


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