Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters 243 Win brass

Other than Lapua, what is the best brass? Candidates are Hornady, Nosler, Prvi Partisan, Winchester, Starline and any that I missed.

I've never had a problem with Remington or Winchester brass. Yes, one can expect to discard a percent or two but the pricing makes it still a good value.

Further, I've used Hornady brass with good success as well....I just purchased a bag of 50 7mm-08 with no rejects at all and they price their product fairly competitively.

I consider Nosler to be simply overpriced.

I've purchased Starline when there was no alternative and have had poor success with Privi mostly in 6.5 X 55 and 9.3 X 62.

I have no proof that the metallurgical content of these brands are different from each other and have never had an issue with anything that would point to a difference.

Generally speaking, I buy Winchester or Remington brass.

I have bought literally thousands of rounds of new W-W brass from Midway. The price was right, but the reject rate was not good, 1-3 in every bag of 50. There's nothing wrong with Federal brass, either.

What criteria are you guys using to reject cases?

RWS, Lapua, Norma, Petersen, Nosler, then not sure about second tier as it varies so much. PPU, Winchester, Remington, Starline, Federal, Hornaday. These in no particular order. If you prep and sort heavily almost all brass will be workable. Some you will get noticeably more loads out of than others.

Have not tried Sig, Jagerman, and some others.

I've not been super excited about Hornady brass in 243. This was in their factory load. The rim was noticeably thinner than other brands. Ruger MkII wouldn't hold onto it.

May have just been the one box.

Look into SIG brass. It has been top shelf quality at a very reasonable price for me in 308 Winchester.

Not specifically in .243, but I I would rate RWS at the top of the tree out of those brands I've used. It is really well turned out, and needs no sorting or preparation. I also rate Lapua highly, and there's Geco (RWS economy line) which is also good, though doesn't get the final polish the RWS line gets. Nosler and Hornady brass seems quite good, though I haven't used much of it, and I've also been impressed by PPU as excellent value for money. As Tejano said, your Winchester, Remington etc will also work, but you do have to do a bit of sorting and preparation.

Why would you not want to use Lapua brass? It seems to last forever with any reasonable load and not oversizing it.

I have some Lapua .308 Win brass that has been loaded more than 10x and still is fine with annealing.

Time is worth something. Take it out of the box, run it through the sizer to make sure the necks are round after shipping, load and go to the range.

Winchester brass can be made as good as Lapua, but it takes fire forming, sorting, and sorting, and some more sorting.

Bought some Jagemann brass recently in several calibers including 243 Win and have found it to be very good. Will be buying more.

GreggH

bought some starline in 223 and 308 recently was impressed with the even neck thickness.

Ed

I use Winchester

Yes, I'd like to know please, and not just to "reject", but what your criteria are for weight-sorting into groups as well.
Any particular technique or measuring tricks used?
Thanks,
Rex

Mostly Winchester and R/P brass. Several years ago, I bought 200 pieces of CFL primed brass from a place that some poster on here told about. I've been pretty well pleased with them. I think we tend to overthink the brass thing.

First, how uniform are the neck walls?

If the necks are really bad then nothing else matters diddly if you're looking for precision.

This can be quite true depending on the application.

Everyone has an opinion about what is best. I think they are all fine. If Remington or Winchester were as bad as many on this board believe, both would have been out of the brass making business long ago.

Think of this like you're in Vegas. Play the odds. What are the odds that you'll get bad brass? If you buy US made, the odds are higher that you'll be disappointed. If you buy European, you'll get better quality. Personally, I believe that the Europeans do a better job. Or perhaps their QC is better. I'm not trying to start any brass wars.

I buy PP and Lapua mostly, but those are personal preferences. If I had to buy US made, I would go with Starline. Of course, that's great if these companies make the brass I need, but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and buy whatever is available.
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I think this is the part of the show where the testimonials and the negative criticisms start. Just to be fair, I'll start.

In 1985, I bought some Remington brass that was poorly made. Out of the 100 cases, six necks were visibly cracked and a couple had off centre flash holes. I wanted to kick Remington in the flash hole and vowed never to buy their crap again.

For 223 and 308, I only buy CDN milspec surplus brass because the cull rate is almost non-existent.

Have tried several new brands of brass over the past year or two, partly because I've been less and less impressed with some traditional brands. In fact published an article in HANDLOADER on the subject not too long ago.

Have been impressed with the consistent dimensions of Jagemann, Jamison, Peterson, RWS and Starline, along with brands usually known for their consistency, such as Lapua and Norma--but also found Prvi Partizan and Sellier & Bellot pretty darn good.

But when looking for new brass for a basic hunting rifle, whether varmint or big game, these days I tend to use quite a bit of Hornady brass. It's not only very consistent dimensionally but pretty reasonably priced, and available in quite a few cartridges at local stores. In fact 100 pieces of 7mm Remington Magnum Hornady brass picked up for a magazine article was as consistent as ANY of the specialty brands that have appeared recently. Plus, Hornady often offers more specialized brass, along with the usual suspects. In fact, the .243 cases I've been loading for the past few years are Hornady.

As mathman noted, consistent case dimensions (especially neck thickness) are far more important than a certain amount of weight variation. Yet I've known a bunch of handloaders who weigh and sort every new batch of brass, yet have never measured case-neck thickness.

What are the chances those are some of the same suspects who weigh powder charges to the gnat's eyelash increment for deer rifles that can't prove out to be MOA shooters under controlled conditions?

The only thing I would add to this conversation is hunting brass for 200 yd or so, measuring the necks is unnecessary. It's not going to make any difference. One has to be careful when talking about hunting brass. The ranges at which people engage is different, depending on what part of the continent you live.

Shooting 222 Rem from the bench at 100 and 200 yards, measuring necks was necessary because when I started, most brass was Win or Rem. That was back in the dim times however, and quality between then and now has changed markedly.