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If you can get it through a planer, that's best. I had access to a cabinet shop sander on my live edge but it didn't quite eliminate the cupping. I ended up hand planing with an electric planer and using a belt sander with 50 grit. I got it down pretty level and smooth.
I was about to build a router sled but just decided to go with what I had.
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mart: Thankyousir. I'll definitely look for instructional videos on the interwebs - good idea. & Yes, I realize that sharpening is a big part of planning and although I have a good set of stones, I’ll need to invest in a jig and either a few more stones, or the sandpaper, as you suggested. So, if you were just starting w/ planes and could only afford 2 Stanleys, which would you choose and why?
If just two planes, I'd go with a 4 1/2 sharpened with a camber for surfacing and a 7 for jointing. A #5 would be okay but the 7 has a lot more mass, not a bad thing when planing. I'd probably look for a Stanley Bedrock 604 1/2 and a 607. They were an improved version of the originals and regarded as a better plane. Here's a very good link to some great information regarding Stanley planes. I'd use the 4 1/2 for the same reason, a little more mass and a slightly wider cutting surface. Stanley planesBoth Veritas and Lee-Nielsen make modern planes that are every bit as good, if not better than the original Stanleys. And they are built like the Bedrock models rather than the original Stanleys. Power tools are great time savers and I use them far more than hand tools but there is something almost cathartic about using a sharp hand plane and rolling up those whisper thin curls and listening to the plane glide over the surface of the wood. No hearing protection required.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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High Noon; Good afternoon to you sir, I trust that all is as well as can be all things considered. If I may do this first, my background in answering this question is spending 27 years in the kitchen cabinet and furniture industry. For over 3 years I ran one of these as well as being Lead Hand in the work cell where we did the rough ripping, then molding, planing and sanding of all the cabinet door parts. Please note that the safety stop bar is missing from that photo - it's a 2 head 37" Sandingmaster made in Holland. Anyways for the last several years we also ended up with a 52" wide belt sander from Italy - funny the name escapes me at present but will come to me hours later when it no longer is relevant. Most of my time in the cabinet industry I was involved with millwright work too, since that sort of thing has always made sense to me somehow. In this instance I'll differ with Sitka Deer in that a good wide belt sander operator can very easily dimension wider pieces such as table tops - we did it daily because our planer was only 24" wide and we made tables which had wider tops. The front head on a sander like the one in the photo is solid and when the operator runs something like an 80 Grit up front it's not an issue to remove up to a millimeter at a time - but that's about it. We'd often have folks bring in various projects to get sanded and would do it as long as there wasn't an excess of glue on the laminated tops or the wood was really wet or sappy. In those instances it'd usually mean we'd kill a belt which back then was more than $50 each, having bought none in 6 years I'm not sure what they'd be worth today, sorry. If it were me building a table, I'd canvas the local furniture and cabinet makers to see if anyone has a big enough machine to take it down to where I need it and what they'd need to do it. In my experience the end result would be preferable to attempting to do something that large by hand. Hopefully that was useful information sir, good luck with your project and stay well. Dwayne Dwayne Lots more machine than I have and I can accept getting it to do lots more. Do you have to use a sled for flattening?
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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If you can’t find a cabinet shop or such to do this, make a router sled. I will be using mine on a number of slabs, so I built this one to be used on up to 36” wide stock.
Mark
NRA Life Member Anytime anyone kicks cancers azz is a good day!
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Sitka deer; Good afternoon sir, it's been too long since we've conversed - I hope you and your fine family are still doing acceptably well.
Sometimes I'd use a sled and sometimes not - depending on what the surfaces on both sides looked like, the wood type and all the little details.
The trick I found was not putting it through the same way, or better said rotating the part 180° every time. Somehow no matter how careful one was, the leading edge would always get a tiny bit more taken off - maybe as little as a .25mm Sitka, but that piles up quick when you're doing 40 or 50 passes.
We'd usually save old course belts just for that sort of work, so if they'd get full of glue it wasn't the end of the world.
Funny I still haven't thought of the bigger Italian machine's name yet. It had a slightly deeper throat than the Sandingmaster - we could only do a bit less than 6" thick with it if memory serves.
The front head on both was a rubber coated drum, but hard, hard rubber so not much give at all. The diameter on the front drum would have been 10" or so?
The back head had a platen with a solid steel roller on either side of the platen. The platen was felt with graphite backed canvas material for the contact surface.
All the rollers were super heavy - as in when changing the bearings one needed to be careful even putting the roller down as it'd flatten one's fingers quite adeptly.
Hahaha - I was running that thing and the bearing went out on the extreme rear roller on the second head. It turned that big roller into a cam shaft and the machine vibrated so much it moved a couple inches forward!!!
Was quite noisy too when it let go Sitka - I recall that like it was happening in now!!! Salesman and the boss came running out of the office and show room... Ah good times..
All the best to you folks Sitka - do stay well.
Dwayne
The most important stuff in life isn't "stuff"
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Here is the last known photo of Kobe Bryant, just before he boarded the helicopter he died in. Hope it helps. damn near pissed m'self TFF
.... like tears in the rain
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BINGO ! BLO or Tung oil work well. Here`s a Walnut slab that I finished with Tung oil.
Last edited by 35; 04/05/20.
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Dwayne: Thank you, good Sir, for the very informative post.
RJY66: Agreed.
North6120: Nice little sled ya’ got there.
TimberRunner: Agreed. Hopefully my OR Bud will be able to get it planed for me on his end b4 shipping.
mart: Great info there, thanks. I'll have to start saving for a 607 & a 604. Those puppies aren't cheap.
M_stevenson: I need to build a sled anyway, for another project, but using a giant planer is a much better & easier idea.
35: That walnut looks awesome. My Bud in OR recently milled some Black Walnut slabs, but they need to dry for a year; otherwise he’d send me that in pretty much any size I wanted.
Last edited by High_Noon; 04/05/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
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Campfire Kahuna
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I’d like to refinish the wood on my wood plane.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Sitka deer; Good afternoon sir, it's been too long since we've conversed - I hope you and your fine family are still doing acceptably well.
Sometimes I'd use a sled and sometimes not - depending on what the surfaces on both sides looked like, the wood type and all the little details.
The trick I found was not putting it through the same way, or better said rotating the part 180° every time. Somehow no matter how careful one was, the leading edge would always get a tiny bit more taken off - maybe as little as a .25mm Sitka, but that piles up quick when you're doing 40 or 50 passes.
We'd usually save old course belts just for that sort of work, so if they'd get full of glue it wasn't the end of the world.
Funny I still haven't thought of the bigger Italian machine's name yet. It had a slightly deeper throat than the Sandingmaster - we could only do a bit less than 6" thick with it if memory serves.
The front head on both was a rubber coated drum, but hard, hard rubber so not much give at all. The diameter on the front drum would have been 10" or so?
The back head had a platen with a solid steel roller on either side of the platen. The platen was felt with graphite backed canvas material for the contact surface.
All the rollers were super heavy - as in when changing the bearings one needed to be careful even putting the roller down as it'd flatten one's fingers quite adeptly.
Hahaha - I was running that thing and the bearing went out on the extreme rear roller on the second head. It turned that big roller into a cam shaft and the machine vibrated so much it moved a couple inches forward!!!
Was quite noisy too when it let go Sitka - I recall that like it was happening in now!!! Salesman and the boss came running out of the office and show room... Ah good times..
All the best to you folks Sitka - do stay well.
Dwayne
I have not had the good fortune to work on that size machine... mine does a fair job with a sled but the rounded corners and potential torn paper (bought a lot of sandpaper for it over the years!) keep me from doing more than very small jobs on it unless the pieces are true to start.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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A sled and router would be the easy way to go.
I use hand planes because thats what I have and they work great, if you have sharp blades and the planes are fettled correctly. A Stanley #5 and Stanley #7 would flatten them in about 10 minutes per side. Getting a #5 off flea bay and expecting it to work upon arrival is not realistic. Buying new ones (Stanley type) can be expensive with Woodriver on the low end and Lie Nielsen on the high end.
If the grain is not too crazy, I can get a finished surface from the planes. no or very light sanding required.
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If the grain is not too crazy, I can get a finished surface from the planes. no or very light sanding required. Yep. I've seen fellers on the interwebs do that - pretty cool. If I get a used Stanley, I'm sure it would need a good sharpening and adjustment, but set-up shouldn't be too difficult.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
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And you could start slow by making your own planes... I have actually made some wooden planes. These are hollow and round sets that I made or getting ready to make. I did not make the set of match planes on the right, but plan on making a set sized for thicker wood. Of course these would be no help to the OP, but I have also made smoothers and jack planes in the past.
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l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
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Campfire Kahuna
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And you could start slow by making your own planes... I have actually made some wooden planes. These are hollow and round sets that I made or getting ready to make. I did not make the set of match planes on the right, but plan on making a set sized for thicker wood. Of course these would be no help to the OP, but I have also made smoothers and jack planes in the past. I have made a good many planes and have stumbled into piles of fantastic wood for the purpose over the years...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Kahuna
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The rough way I'd do it. Rip in two, run each half through my 16" planner, glue the halves back together.
Do what you like.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o "May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
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You'll be time and money ahead if you find a cabinet shop to mill it down flat for you.
How green is it? I assume its plain sawn or live sawn? If that is the case and its not been seasoned properly it is going to check and cup like a mother fugger.
Last edited by hillestadj; 04/05/20.
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Not green at all. It''s been seasoning in a warehouse for over a year.
Last edited by High_Noon; 04/05/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
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Not green at all. It''s been seasoning in a warehouse for over a year. 1 year per inch of thickness is a good place to start for hardwood drying to usable moisture levels. At least that's what the big boys down on the corner told me.
Mark
NRA Life Member Anytime anyone kicks cancers azz is a good day!
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Oh The Drama!
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I'd suggest looking for a jointer plane if you intend to do the surface by hand, followed by a BIG orbital sander. When I was teaching auto body work we had one that used 8" diameter sanding discs, and it was great for making flat panels really flat. The longer the bed on the plane, the flatter the surface you're working with will end up. 100% Tung oil with no solvents added is my first choice for gunstocks and other woodworking projects. Jerry
Ignorance can be fixed. Stupid is forever!
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