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23' travel trailer with dexter axles. I went out and lubed my bearings and went to adjust the brakes. I thought I got them right but when I tested the brakes with the wheels off the ground I had nothing on the right/passenger side of the trailer. I have 12 volts in the leads going to the magnets but they aren't grabbing. I went through adjusting the brakes until they wouldn't turn and then backed off a couple times. I'm thinking the magnets are dead but they don't look any more worn than the left/drivers side and the drums are in good shape. I'm also a little suspicious that only one side is not working. I'm leaning towards just going with complete backing plates and drums anyway but just want to see what the 'fires experiences are with trailer brakes.


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My wires run through axle then out to wheels, wire may be broke, shorted, should be a hum when brake applied, you can hold a compass by wheel and when brake applied compass should move, some measure amps to see how much power is being applied.


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Have you checked the magnet leads for continuity? It sounds like you've got an open circuit in one of the magnet coils. Disconnect both wires and use an ohmmeter to check the coil resistance. It should be the same on all of the brake coils. If you've got the servo type brakes with the metal disc on the inside of the drum, the wheel has to be rolling before the brake shoes will be applied by the lever arm the magnet is mounted on.
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^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^


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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Have you checked the magnet leads for continuity? It sounds like you've got an open circuit in one of the magnet coils. Disconnect both wires and use an ohmmeter to check the coil resistance. It should be the same on all of the brake coils. If you've got the servo type brakes with the metal disc on the inside of the drum, the wheel has to be rolling before the brake shoes will be applied by the lever arm the magnet is mounted on.
Jerry


This

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I did get the wheel spinning pretty good and couldn't get it to actuate, I'll do the magnet test in a couple days. Thanks all.


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You doing this with your vehicles key turned on? Just curious...


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Many electrical problems in vehicles are solved simply by running a new wire, bypassing the old one. Try jumping a new wire from the trailer plug to the brakes to see what happens.


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I recently added brakes to my 16 ft lowboy, had absolute hell figuring out why they would barely stop the spinning wheel(up on jack stands) when I applied the brakes on the factory controller in my 2017 f 250, no matter how much gain was applied. I did use 12 ga wire to the magnets. I took it for a spin and found with too much gain, the tires would lock up when the brakes were applied, I’m guessing it had something to do with The traction control or abs, not seeing any wheel speed while the truck was sitting. That’s my guess and I’m sticking to it, the brakes work as designed, as long as the truck is rolling.

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Use an auxiliary battery like one for a lawn mower, motorcycle, etc. to actuate the brake magnet right at the wheel. If that works, trace the circuit back one connection at a time until you find the open circuit or high resistance. People sometimes abandon all logic when trying to diagnose electrical problems. I've spent over 60 years (so far) fixing automotive electrical problems others have given up on. The same approach to troubleshooting also works on B-52's, BTW!
Jerry


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1. Get multimeter.
2. Use it on trailer brake wires

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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Use an auxiliary battery like one for a lawn mower, motorcycle, etc. to actuate the brake magnet right at the wheel. If that works, trace the circuit back one connection at a time until you fond the open circuit or high resistance. People sometimes abandon all logic when trying to diagnose electrical problems. I've spent over 60 years (so far) fixing automotive electrical problems others have given up on. The same approach to troubleshooting also works on B-52's, BTW!
Jerry

That'a a good one, forgot about my bike battery.


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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Use an auxiliary battery like one for a lawn mower, motorcycle, etc. to actuate the brake magnet right at the wheel. If that works, trace the circuit back one connection at a time until you fond the open circuit or high resistance. People sometimes abandon all logic when trying to diagnose electrical problems. I've spent over 60 years (so far) fixing automotive electrical problems others have given up on. The same approach to troubleshooting also works on B-52's, BTW!
Jerry

That'a a good one, forgot about my bike battery.


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I haven't fooled with many, but rust or stuck/slow moving parts impede the function of magnetic brakes a lot of the time. If voltage is present, all moving parts must move freely.

Voltage first, free moving parts, then about all that's left is a bad electromagnet. But both?

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About two weeks after Henry Ford came out with the Model T a guy in Nebraska invented the trailer. We have been trying to keep lights and brakes on them ever since. You are not alone.

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Towing a camper trailer in Kansas is called "Trolling For Tornadoes"!
Jerry


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Originally Posted by 45_100
About two weeks after Henry Ford came out with the Model T a guy in Nebraska invented the trailer. We have been trying to keep lights and brakes on them ever since. You are not alone.

Ain't this the truth... lol....


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A big part of light and brake problems on trailers is the ground. Some try to ground through the hitch ball and that never works out well. Bolt the ground to the frame and rust will appear sooner or later. It's hard to keep clean.


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On the trailer connector pigtails I've wired over the past 50-something years, the brakes always have their own ground running through the wire harness to the tow vehicle. That circuit is very important to proper brake operation.
Jerry


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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
On the trailer connector pigtails I've wired over the past 50-something years, the brakes always have their own ground running through the wire harness to the tow vehicle. That circuit is very important to proper brake operation.
Jerry

The way this trailer is wired is the brake wire comes down the left side of the trailer with taps and splits to the right side of the axle. I will power the mags with my MC battery and work from there.


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