Boy, some of you guys have too much fun mixing stuff!
Yep, as many good products as are available today, anybody that even remotely thinks they need to re-invent the wheel & mix something up is either really ignorant or just doing it to be doing it.
For my everyday needs, using Butch's to clean the loose stuff out followed by Bore Tech Eliminator works just fine; most of my barrels are treated with Dyna Bore Coat too.
I tried Gunslik foaming bore cleaner and Butches Bore Shine and Bore Tech eliminator out does both. You can use a lot of patches if you don't take your time.
Had an old 77 with the tang safety that I had cleaned for years and to my thinking all was good the first time I used Boretech eliminator on it I pushed 60 patches through it. I was amazed at what came out of the barrel. For 20 years I thought the rifle was a 1 to 1.5 MOA hunting rifle and that was good enough 18" bbl light weight etc. The first group through it after cleaning with BTE was 1/2 MOA. Its water based no ammonia so there's no major odors when you take it to the bush either just plain works for me. Butches bore shine will damage oil finished guns if allowed to set on them.
This is my formula,has worked well for years. 3 ounces tomato juice 3 drops Tobasco sauce 1/2 teaspoon of Worchestire sauce 1/2 tablespoon of horse radish 2 ounces of Vodka 1/4 teaspoon celery salt Add- celery stock,pickled green bean stock, lemon wedge, or more for garnish
Drink a few, then go clean your guns. Hoppe's no.9
You are very wise, but in the minority, I'm afraid. I hope most people will read and heed! You're smart, yet most folks are dazzled by marketing and go to stores for their cleaning products. Don't be fooled by store bought cleaners! They are overpriced and don't work well.
All companies hire scientists, but not for research and development, or safety. They are hired because they went to university and learned a lot of cool sounding chemical names and/or complex descriptors for common things like ethyl ether (acid and alcohol), tapolene (water), glucose or dextrose (sugar), blunt force trauma (being beaten by a revenuer). They also have letters after their names. That impresses people and, when you're young, is a great help in picking up girls.
ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (EGME) or C3H8O2 aka 'Shine - If you think of a fancy mixed drink like a Pina Colada, you'd be on the right track for what this is. Instead of rum, pineapples, coconut creams, fruit and ice, just think of a bunch of alcohols mixed together.
Put this on a label, and watch the retail price of a bottle of 'shine' go through the roof! Of course, it's an organic solvent, just like pappy's corn squeezin's. It will strip or thin paint. Or you can use it as a spot remover. Some folks call it Mountain Dew or White Lightning. But please, don't drink it! The store bought stuff will make you sick or blind you! It's not purified like pappy's corn squeezin's!!!
Just remember, companies cannot charge big bucks if customers find out their gun cleaner is made from potato peelings and/or fermented plants. So they get all fancy, hire a scientist, and call the peelings, sugar, etc - hydrocarbons, and other $25 names.
See your local moonshiner for inexpensive, effective gun cleaners that you can drink!
All of my barrels have been treated with Dyna Bore Coat. Cleaning is with a 5/50 mix of Shooters Choice/Kroil, and then Montana Extreme Copper Killer with nylon brush. I just read on another forum that some are liking this product, but I have no first hand use. https://www.bulletcentral.com/product/thorroclean-bore-cleaning-system/
Used Hoppe's No. 9 for many years, lately I like Butch's Bore Shine. I also use Bore-tech Eliminator and Break Free CLP. For long term storage, rust prevention and after cold blue I use Birchwood Casey Barricade/Shield. Once a season or so rifle bores get a detail cleaning with JB Compound. Tried many others over the years, but these products fill my needs at present.
Yep. I hate cleaning rifles, partly because I would much rather be shooting. Consequently I use powders that don't foul much, and may even contain a decoppering agent, so don't have to clean rifles very often. It's also the reason I use Dyna Bore Coat in barrels that tend to foul more than others.
When I do clean rifle barrels, I also prefer one solvent that gets everything out, or at least most of it. Most barrels do not shoot as well when perfectly clean as when slightly fouled.
I am consistent with that, but thinking in more detail: 1) Get a new barrel or clean a barrel as clean as new. Go through the Bore Coat procedure. This forum seems to be the repository for the procedure. It looks like it is available again https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019547645
2) Moly coat bullets. Procedure involves cleaning the bullets and then tumbling in a bottle inside a Thumler's Tumbler.
3) Use anti Copper fouling temp stable powders; IMR-4451 or IMR-4166 Re 16, Re23, Re26 or temp unstable anti Copper powders like CFE223
4) Clean out Copper starting with a) a powder solvent. I use KG2 on a patch, but anything will do. b) Followed by an alcohol patch followed by a clean patch. c) a Copper solvent. I use KG12 on a patch, nothing else is as good in dissolving Copper, per repeatable testing. It can dissolve a Copper bullet in half. Unlike Ammonia based solvents, it will not make pot holes in steel. d) Followed by an alcohol patch followed by a clean patch. e) followed by Witches Brew ( or Kroil and FLITZ} on a bronze brush for 5 stokes That bronze brush must measure with calipers to be bigger in diameter than the grooves of the barrel. 10 or 15 strokes may take a brush down a caliber size. f) Wait 5 minutes for Witches Brew or Kroil to creep under Copper that was etched by KG12. g) followed by Witches Brew ( or Kroil and FLITZ} on a bronze brush for 5 stokes h) d) Followed by an alcohol patch followed by a clean patch. i) Look into muzzle with a light. If any Copper is visible, go back to c) and start over.
5) Do not exceed the speed limit of 3400 fps.
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
I wrote the original directions for installing DBC years ago, after fooling with it for a couple years, because the company eventually asked me to. Think they still use some of my suggestions, but haven't opened one of the new batch they sent me maybe 6-8 months ago. The company contacted me then because they wanted some other company to possibly take over the sales, promotion, customer service, etc, as the manufacturer has become busier with bigger things. (DBC and their other gun products were always sort of a sideline.) I suggested a couple of companies that might take DBC over, one of them Midway, and that may have happened, but dunno.
I don't bother DBCing new-to-me rifles unless they prove they need it. Many if not most don't, partly because I use a lot of decoppering powder these days, and even factory barrels have improved considerably in the last several years.
Never saw any point in moly-coating bullets after getting into DBC more than a decade ago, as found it essentially eliminated the need to clean the bore, or greatly reduced it--without having to coat every bullet. Just coat the bore instead, and be done with it.
Have found Montana X-Treme Copper Solvent and Copper Killer do a pretty darn good job of getting rid of powder fouling along with copper fouling, perhaps because they can be left in the bore for extended periods without any bore damage. (This is determined by examining bores with my Gradient Lens Hawkeye scope.) Wipe-Out also seems to be pretty good as well. So also don't bother with an extended cleaning operation using several products.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
I don't even know what I use, let me go check........
Bore Tech carbon remover Bore tech copper remover Gunslick foam If I have plenty of time JB for tough stuff Lucas gun oil for lube
Looks like I could use Bore tech eliminator to replace the carbon remover and copper remover when I run out.
I own a bore scope and has been very enlightening.
I DBC my barrels and it has made cleaning very easy. I screwed around with applying moly to bullets, but gave it up. Now days, I just buy some Ballistic silvertips if I feel the need. The combination of DBC and Ballistic Silvertips makes for very easy cleaning, when I feel the need.
The efficacy of moly combined with BDC is a question that will never be resolved with a replicable double blind study.
That is why some discussions devolve into a joke; bore cleaning, barrel break in, accuracy rituals, Covid 19 masks, and Ford vs Chevy.
After a lifetime of designing tests and policing out of control variables, I am now being treated for Glaucoma by a woman doctor 1/3 my age, that changes my medicines two at a time.
I should just accept that for some topics the truth is down in the noise. It does not matter which of the shotgun pellets knocks down the bird.
The universe is devolving ................accept it.
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
Clark, I noticed that your list included using a bronze brush in your DBC coated barrels (step 4e). I thought DBC did not recommend using bronze brushes to protect the coating.
Shinbone it IS difficult. Buy a steel one gallon gas can. Pour a quart of the four ingredients into it. It is a terrible inconvenience. You would probably rather pay ten times the price for a tiny amount. It is your money. Manage it any way you want.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy. Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. Winston Churchill.
Clark, I noticed that your list included using a bronze brush in your DBC coated barrels (step 4e). I thought DBC did not recommend using bronze brushes to protect the coating.
It doesn’t hurt the coating but it’s not necessary, either.
The company recommended against using bronze brushes when DBC was first introduced, mostly because they didn't whether it would hurt the coating. But eventually they found out DBC wasn't affected by bronze brushes. But as Jordan noted, there's no reason to use them, since both powder and copper fouling come out easily.
In fact I rarely use bronze brushes even in rifle bores that aren't treated with DBC, because I use oil-based solvents that can be left in the bore forever, and the fouling normally comes out with a few cotton patches.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
John, What about a scrub with JB paste, will it remove the DCB? By mistake I JB'ed a barrel that I wasn't supposed to, and am not sure if I should reapply or not... Thank You, Alvaro
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