Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Welding Machine Question

I'm trying to decide between two stick welders, either a 110 volt that says it goes up to 100 amps or a 220 volt that says it goes up to 180 amps. Same manufacturer for both,

Doubt I would ever try to weld anything over 1/4", mostly angle iron for pig traps and some odds and ends. given that would I ever notice any practical difference between the two for what I plan on using them for?

Get the 220V machine.

The only advantage of a 110 welder is the ability to use it somewhere else where's there no 220.

The disadvantages with the 110 are a much reduced duty cycle and likely AC only.

I have a 110 at home and a 220 at work. The 110 has really surprised me with its capabilities, and I really prefer it for light metal. It's a Lincoln, and I use the gas for thin stuff and flux core for thicker dirtier stuff. I don't know what the duty cycle is supposed to be, but I've never had it quit on me, despite pushing it pretty hard sometimes. If I could have only 1, it would be a 220 though.

The 220v will have enough power to do a great job on 1/4”.
The 110v would struggle.

Colodog hit the biggest reason, above, on the reduced duty cycle with 110v.

Get the 220.

The op is talking about a stick machine, not a wire feeder.. I'd get the 220v stick machine, if it were me.. The 110's are very lacking in duty cycle, amperage and capability...

You'll have a hard time burning a rod bigger than 3/32" with a 110 volt machine, or welding anything thicker than 1/4". If it's an AC machine forget about running 7018 rod of any diameter- - - -it needs reverse polarity DC to burn properly. I'd recommend a 225 amp or higher capacity AC/DC machine for anything approaching heavy duty work. For heavy duty work I've got a 300 amp AC/DC/TIG Miller welder on a 50 amp 220 volt circuit. My Hobart 110/220 volt gas shielded MIG is great for light work, and by just interchanging the power plug I can run it on either voltage.
Jerry

I should defer to the welders that know. My 2 cents, buy a good 220. There might be a way to Jerry rig 220 from the entrance box, clips with insulation.

Without a doubt, 220.

Our school shop had a Lincoln with copper coils, no fan, crank dial, only AC.

Get the 220 and don't look back.

A 110V stick welder doesn’t even have enough copper in it to make a good boat anchor, and that’s the only possible good use for one.

Two ways to go about it.

A: Buy a 110V machine and find out it’s worthless. Try to sell it for 3 months on Craigslist with no takers. And then go buy a 220V machine and live happily ever after.

Or option B: Buy a 220V machine and live happily ever after.

If you can swing the extra cash upgrade to an A/C-D/C machine instead of the entry level rigs that are mostly likely AC only. Much more versatile for rod selection and different tasks.

For building angle iron pig traps get yourself a 10lb box of 1/8” 7014s. They run like a Jet rod but all positions, no fancy whip or weave needed. Strike them up and drag across the joint, if everything is set right it’ll look like it was MIG welded when the slag pops off.

I realize you are asking about stick, but the Harbor Freight Titanium 110/220v (switchable) multi-process (wire MIG/TIG and stick) has been excellent for me. It comes with a stinger for stick welding too. Around $600 I think for the package.

Son Jake has an AC DC Hobart welder that is just fine.

I've been very pleased with one I bought from Northern Tool. I cought it on sale for less than $200.

It is both 110 and 220 (I've never used mine on 110 though).

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200680690_200680690

I have a Miller 250. It’s 100% duty cycle with a 1/8 rod. I’ve had it since 1988, never missed a lick. We have the same machine at work. It’s over 30 years old also. The Miller 250’s are on EBay. If you could find one close to you, I would highly recommend them.

I have an ESAB 161 machine that runs on either 120 or 240, and it works WAY BETTER on 240. On 120 it is very difficult to get a arc started without sticking.

I plug it into a dryer outlet and weld in the garage, with good results. A 30A 240V outlet is plenty of juice for it.

OP is talking stick...

220V. The quality 110V machines weld ok with a 3/32 and that's probably all you need but the problem can be the circuit. NOTHING else can be on that circuit and it better be wired properly with good connections.
I will say that I just picked up a new little Lincoln 200 Square Wave and I was impressed with the output and abilities when plugged into 110. It will be used at 220 all the time but it is nice to have the option.
Inverter technology has come a long ways in the past years.

Edit to add: Get something with DC capabilities. Life is too short to not weld with DC unless it's loominum.