advice, the best way to fix this gouge one of my helpers made when the scraper caught then skipped and his forward momentum carried him into the corner of the cabinet.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
stxhunter; Good evening sir, I hope other than the gouged cabinet this finds you well.
Before we begin, I'm going to assume that the customer knows the fix will not be perfect ans since the cabinets are not new will be okay with that.
The piece of veneer that's loose on the right can be put back with something like an industrial PL adhesive.
The sticky wicket there is how to put pressure on it to hold it in place and at the same time clean up any extra which squirts out.
Are you able to clamp it?
Then for the front, I'd use a wood filler to fill within say an eighth of the surface. Some wood filler such as Fix brand which also make PL in the US actually will take stain fairly well.
Try a test batch and see if the filler will take stain and if it will, then fill to level and stain.
If the filler will not take stain, then you'll need to source some lacquer sticks in the correct color and use them. While it's fairly large, we've used lacquer sticks to repair mill work and been successful most of the time.
Hope that was useful and made some sense. Good luck with the repair, feel free to ask questions and all the best to you this summer.
that ain't going to be easy nor perfect. if the laminate is kind of loose and you can find something similiar, you might want to carefully cut out around it and put in a dutchman using a good wood glue.
Yeah, But it looks like that cabinet is a veneer over slats.. And the veneer looks to be from a single piece (from the grain of the three or four pieces I see) I thought you might have better luck finding a piece of flooring that looks similar to tge veneer since it is two sides of a corner and (real wood)veneer can be expensive
Last edited by OldmanoftheSea; 06/25/20.
-OMotS
"If memory serves fails me..." Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "
Television and radio are most effective when people question little and think even less.
stxhunter; Good evening sir, I hope other than the gouged cabinet this finds you well.
Before we begin, I'm going to assume that the customer knows the fix will not be perfect ans since the cabinets are not new will be okay with that.
The piece of veneer that's loose on the right can be put back with something like an industrial PL adhesive.
The sticky wicket there is how to put pressure on it to hold it in place and at the same time clean up any extra which squirts out.
Are you able to clamp it?
Then for the front, I'd use a wood filler to fill within say an eighth of the surface. Some wood filler such as Fix brand which also make PL in the US actually will take stain fairly well.
Try a test batch and see if the filler will take stain and if it will, then fill to level and stain.
If the filler will not take stain, then you'll need to source some lacquer sticks in the correct color and use them. While it's fairly large, we've used lacquer sticks to repair mill work and been successful most of the time.
Hope that was useful and made some sense. Good luck with the repair, feel free to ask questions and all the best to you this summer.
Dwayne
this is what i was thinking and will probably try first.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
Corner mould, adhesive and a finish stain before installation.
that's a good idea.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
"He is far from Stupid"
”person, who happens to have an above-average level of intelligence”
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
if i go that route i'll have one of my carpenter friends do it.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
Judging by the quality of those cabinets, nothing but a full restoration of the room would be acceptable. Or some old English polish. Can ya tell I had a bad with a fugging moron gc.
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
if i go that route i'll have one of my carpenter friends do it.
I was thinking that while I was typing, but didn't know your extent of experience. If you have a good cabinet friend, he could bang that out, and you walk away with no headache from trying to half azz a fix, and a with a happy customer. It'd be an easy fix for a cabinet guy.
That's probably your least of a headache way to fix it. Sucks when we have to come out of pocket on a job, but it's part of the game sometimes. You fix it and go down the road, and keep the referrals coming in from the happy customer, and how you handled the situation.
"He is far from Stupid"
”person, who happens to have an above-average level of intelligence”
Judging by the quality of those cabinets, nothing but a full restoration of the room would be acceptable. Or some old English polish. Can ya tell I had a bad with a fugging moron gc.
yeah their old and not in the best shape.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
my brother and i made a couple of old school Calcutta bamboo rods.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/W3Z0Nf4t/IMG-0203.jpg)
