Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire snowblower carb has me stumped

Mine did something like that - I finally pulled the float needle valve and stuck a tooth pick up there and a flake of junk came out of where the gas feeds in.

Apparently the seat of the float value was holding gas in there and it dried up and make it’s own little flapper that was closing half the time... drove me nuts for a couple of weeks as I tore things apart multiple times... then I finally put that pick up there and saw it fall out... then it ran like normal.

that's my next step tomorrow, I just need to get a piece of thin wire from somewhere.

Paper clip

If it's overflowing with the float & needle out, the all the rest of the fuel delivery system is working properly. With the needle & float back in screws it up, then it's obviously one or both of those 2.. Likely the float not holding the needle.

But new carb coming tomorrow kinda eliminates fooling with the old one.

Bread sack tie.....strip off plastic.

Made in VaChina crap. Don't support the commies . . .

good call, I will do just that

Had you put Stay-bil fuel stabilizer in the gas? Was there orange residue in the carburetor?

Reason I ask is I had exactly the same sorta problem with my old lawnmower. The Stay-bil had it all gummed up! I cleaned it good and got it running right, and I won’t use anything but Star-Tron in every small gas engine I use, not to mention my Truck and Wifey’s car.
And I ain’t had a lick of trouble with mowers since I switched, and it actually increased the fuel mileage in both vehicles.
7mm

For short holes I pull a bristle out of a (heavy duty)wire brush and use that.


Hard steel, no flex, hold it with a mini vice grip.

well I was able to get a wire up in all the jets of the carb - still no go

just as I was testing it for the last time, the mailman showed up with my $22 Ebay carb

popped it on and it started on the second pull

I added a fuel shut off valve and a fuel filter.

gonna change the oil and I should be good to go until next winter anyways.

If you’re running 90+ and using Sta-Bil that’s totally unnecessary.

Btw the usps has delivered packages to me on thanksgiving day and today, Sunday. Who would have thought you would see that?

There no easy way to clean carb. pull it off , disassemble, and clean every tiny piece including jets . $22 for a new one makes it not worth messing with though

You were lucky to get it before spring thaw.......

I'm almost a month out on a package that's "In transit, running late".........

I do my best to avoid china bombs but I needed a carb for my Onan trailer gennie. They are $300 and a national back order. My only option was a $50 China carb. And guess what? It works as well as the OE unit except when it craps the bed I won't be totally disgusted that a carb won't last more than 2 years. I wouldn't be surprised if Onan is outsourcing these to China now.

I believe the fuel shut off valve is the fix for all of this. I run my generator dry now before I park my trailer.

Easiest and best way is to use a cheap ultra-sonic cleaner.

It still has that funkie gunk that this newer gas gets when it has set for a time.

The smaller passages are still gunked up.

There are only a few sprays that do a good job on getting the grey goo out.

I use Master Clean.

Regardless of anything else you do, do this too ^^^^^^

Side story.

I recently sold a 1996 Subaru that has sat in my yard for 3 years.
I know. Kick me, and I'm 50 miles from West-By-God.


Anyway, we pumped up the tires and needed to get it to the dolly.
The "proud" new owner wondered if it would start.

(I was laughing to myself, no F'n way!)

They had a battery (necessary to tow a Subaru) and stuck it in.
Damn thing fired right up. And I mean, right up.
He did cycle the key twice to fire the fuel pump, but it took right off.

Still wouldn't move. The rear brake pads were rusted to the rotors.

But if lit, ran rough for about a minute, then smoothed right out.
Ethanol gas that was 3 and almost a half years old.