Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Spreading grass seed question

I've seeded over snow for re-seeding disrupted soil around burned slash piles and where equipment has torn up the soil due to brush piling. Seemed to work, but the snow was only a few inches deep. Since these spot seeded areas tended to be small, I probably seeded a bit heavy.

From the Colorado State University Extension Service:

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/agriculture/soil-erosion-control-after-wildfire-6-308/


Erosion Control Techniques

The first step after a wildfire is reseeding grass in the severely burned areas. Remember many plants can recover after fire depending on the severity of the burn. It is important to leave existing vegetation if the plants do not threaten personal safety or property (hazardous trees in danger of falling should be identified first).

Seed can be purchased throughout Colorado. It’s a good idea to obtain certified (blue tag) seed – this guarantees the variety, that it was tested under field conditions, and that it is recommended for the state.

Varieties recommended (this is not an all inclusive list) include mountain bromegrass, slender wheat-grass, bluebunch wheatgrass, western wheatgrass, Arizona fescue, streambank wheatgrass, Idaho fescue (western slope), thickspike wheatgrass, steambank wheatgrass, and blue gramma. Species selection will vary from one site to another. Species selection is based on soils, elevation, aspect, and location in the state. You may plant a nurse crop with the grass mix to provide a quick cover (oats or a sterile hybrid such as RegreenTM or QuickGuardTM) until the native grasses germinate.

Seeding Tips for Hand Planting

1. Roughen the soil surface to provide a better seedbed by breaking through the hydrophobic layer. A steel rake works well for this, or, depending on the slope, a small tractor drawn harrow could be used.
2. Broadcast the seed (a “Cyclone” seeder works well). Seeding rate depends upon the variety of seed sown. A good estimate is 10 to 20 pounds per acre of grass seed with another 10 to 15 pounds per acre of the nurse crop.
3. Rake or harrow in 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch deep.
4. If the area is small enough, roll or tamp the seed down to ensure good soil/seed contact.
5. Spread certified, weed-free hay straw. If the area is small, crimp the hay in with a shovel. (This will help keep soil, seed, and mulch in place during wind and rain.)
6. Control weeds as needed by cutting off the flower heads before they can produce seed.
7. Do not use herbicides for broadleaf weed control until after the grass has germinated and developed five leaves.

Spreading over snow gives the birds some thing to eat unless you get more snow over it. Even then you lose some when it melts. If you missed you window in the fall,wait until early spring and also spread cover crop on it like oats.Also check that the seed is more than just annual rye grass that will die within a year.Best to have a mixture something like fescue, pernnial rye, orchard grass

Thanks for all the comments....

I was not clear on the size of the area cleared. The "flat & ready" area for construction is maybe 10 times the area of the cabin footprint. Gonna have a big "yard." Rather have grass in the laydown and equipment parking areas.

While I might could make it up through the snow to seed the site now, I think I will wait. If we get a dry spell and the snow melts, I 'll get up there and seed. If not, I will to wait until mud season to seed. Still should have grass by start of construction in June or July.

Good tip on the fall wheat seed. I can probably get that.

Thanks,

TF

All vegetation should be removed before your foundation goes in.
I would be more concerned about what herbicides to purchase to keep anything from growing.
Install silt fence if you are concerned about soil moving.
Cheers

Edit: didn’t see your last post

We seed drilled our vineyard a month or so ago with triticale, and I had 2 buckets left over. For grins I tossed handfulls on some of the rows closest to my shop and it germinated but died out, and the drilled seed was 2" tall days after the sprouted top seeds died, probably died from frost.

I think raking them in gives a much better chance of mother nature not killing the small grass, and I didn't see any of the broadcast seed that actually established roots that entered the soil and took off.