Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting 6.5-300 Weatherby – for Elk?

In house Wby ammo. Wow, that's interesting.

Their ammo, IIRC, has long been a Norma product and expensive. I'm guessing they're just assembling components in house, but that's still good news. Probably a good move with this new gun hostile administration. Ammo and gun imports are probably gonna get whacked, probably sooner than later.

Hopefully, that will help with availability.

DF

Its still expensive! LOL!

Weatherby uses a lot of American made premium bullets which are shipped to Sweden and assembled and probably hit with a hefty vat tax and then shipped back here as completed ammo and who knows what the tariffs are on that stuff, not to mention lengthy delays due to the Covid scam.

The 6.5-300 ULW I was looking at is still at the LGS. I am going to give it a 2 week aging period and if it still there then I buy it . They somehow lost the brake that belongs to this rifle and I called Weatherby last week and asked about a new one. I would have to ship them the rifle to install it and it would be 178 bucks...Not.

My new MkV one that I will pick up shortly comes with a brake and a thread protector to replace it I think. I doubt I ever will use the brake. Recoil not bad at all without one. If anything might cause me to flinch, I most-likely would be the sound of the discharge with the brake on.

I'm surprised though that the brake isn't fairly standard and would just screw on where the thread protector is on your rifle, without the need for them possessing your rifle.

On the box label It says with accubrake. The "Rep" told me that there might have been differences in the thread and Weatherby prefers to have the rifle in hand in case it has to be recut. I told him that was not going to happen if I ended up buying the rifle. It is a newer model, I believe right before they moved to Wyoming. The funny thing is I have an accu brake sitting in the gunsafe off a 270 WBY.

Weatherby wanted me to send in my rifle to get the trigger tech trigger installed, said it would need fitting all for over 200 bucks. TT had a Black Friday sale and I picked one up for 150 and fit it myself, it is a remarkable upgrade over the trigger on my 1995 Mark V.

Interesting OH. I would think they could tell which brake you needed by your serial #. If they still were not metaphysically certain, but had a hunch, it would be cheaper for Wby to mail you the one they thought worked, even if that led to some back=-and-forth mailing of other brake versions, than mailing the rifle back and forth once.

The stock triggers on my three Mk Vs are really really good to me. They were made I think in 1999 (340 Accumark); early 2000s (.375 Wby DGR); and 2014 (7mm Wby ULW).

The serial number info makes a lot of sense, unfortunately I do not have the rifle in hand with the serial number Yet. I have had no problems getting the factory triggers adjusted to my likes. I thought I would try the TT Special and it does feel better IMHO.

Just picked up my new baby, who now weighs in at 10lbs-15oz.

Installed the base and rings and 4.5-27X-50mm Bushnell Forge FFP MOA reticle scope.

I have 8 full boxes total of four different types of ammo. Gonna wait until tomorrow to take it to the range.

The trigger, just like on my other Accumark, is really crisp, and I wouldn’t want it any lighter.




Do you think I went a little overkill on the rings?





Do you guys level your scopes like this?:






I gotta boresight it, but I can’t do it right now because the best place in the house to do that is in a room where my fiancé currently is doing a work video conference with clients. It would be kinda funny to have me boresighting my rifle in the background, but I think I’ll just be patient for a while.

I think the scope's guts will let go before the rings do

In terms of mounting level, I don't trust the short bubble levels. On a rifle with a 1913 rail, I square the ele. turret to the rail, then test for reticle cant and proper tracking.

I get your point. But you don't think there would be any practical negative impact of being that close, but not close enough for NASA's needs, to level do you?

Note that, for context, I don't dial scopes while hunting or long range shooting. I shoot off the reticles. I don't trust tracking, even though I know some scopes can do it accurately. Once I sight in 1" high at 100 yds, I let my eyes to the math at distance.

Yeah, it depends on your needs. If you're using your reticle for holdover (which still requires a reticle that is square with the axis between the scope and the bore), and you never shoot beyond 500 yards, then "close" is probably good enough for your needs.

Okay, I respect your experience, but I think your missing on the practical here. I did the math.

At 700 yds, for each degree out of level for a MOA group, you would be off by 0.611111 inches. So, for each 1- degrees outside of level, it would be 0.6 inches off.

I’m nowhere near 3 degrees off, much less 10 degrees off. But, even if I was 10 degrees off, which I’m not, I would miss the target by 6”. Not gonna matter unless I’m shooting at a silkworm.

Also, there’s always some cant by the hunter, no matter how brilliant he is.

At most, I might be a couple degree off; though I'm not sure that level isn't pretty accurate. So, I may be off by an inch at 700 yards. If getting under a MOA groups, which am, I am getting closer than that.

All those years sitting in a crane with a ball hanging in front of me did wonders for being able to see plumb in the field.

To setup my rig:

I drop a machinists parallel on the action rails and level the action. In theory the scope should be at 12 o'clock over the bore....so at this point, it's level.

I then sight through the scope at a plumb object (my local water tower) and with the action level and the scope plumb.....go prove that at range.

A well driven 140 is utter hell on elk. Done in a bunch of them myself.

I got her sighted in, I think.



It seems to like the 127gr LRXs the best too, but I’m not certain yet. Have to let the barrel cool off overnight, lol, and go back. It shot the 140gr ABs pretty well and better than the 130gr SSs.

If I get much more positive results with the 127s, I will just settle on them. That way, the Accumark and my backup rifle, the Accuguard, both will be shooting the same thing.

A couple of curious things about the chrono results:

I chronoed one 140gr Interlock from the same box as I shot out of the Accuguard. I shot that just to see if I was on paper at 25 yds after bore-sighting. It came in at 3,277 fps, exactly the average out of my Accuguard. Coincidence, but still suggests a similar velocity range out of both

The 127gr LRXs averaged 3,376 fps out of my Accuguard, but 3,472 out of my Accumark. Could that be because of more free-bore in the MkV? But then wouldn’t that be true of the 140gr bullets as well? Any other possible reason for that?

Also, I could not get the Labradar to track the ABs at all. Could that be the shape of the bullet? It could be human error, but nothing I did worked. I would have thought that, if it didn’t track the 140 ABs, it wouldn’t have tracked the 127 LRXs, but it had no problem with the latter.

Sighted in 1 inch high at 100 yds at sea level, its performance should look like this at 10,000 ft and sea level:





At elevation, it’s only dropping 22” at 500 yds and still is moving at over 2,700 fps. At 700 yds, it still is moving above 2,400 fps.

Now, I just need to shoot them a bit more to make sure I’m dialed in and see if I can find an elk in Colorado in October that will let me put the crosshairs on him.

FWIW..to make sure the action is level just remove the bolt. The flat area where the shroud used to reside is a perfect leveling spot.

Makes sense. Thanks.

Be sure to waive those ballistic charts at the game you are hunting. They will just roll over and capitulate.

Just nice to know where the bullet will be at a certain distance.

Those 127's look great in both guns. If it's available it's been shooting well enough I'd wanna stock up on it!

No idea why the difference in speed. I'd bet they were both chambered with the same reamer or at least the same copy of it. Probably take a bit more shooting but I'd suspect they will fall in line with one another.

Looks like the 127s are the right match for your gun(s.) difference in velocity could be number of rounds down the barrel, as barrels tend to speed up as they’re smoothed by firing. Could just be a rougher barrel, as I believe that the free bore would be the same if built to Weatherby spec. But that’s just speculation on my part.