I thought I asked this before , but I can't find it.
Does anyone have any tips on painting synthetic stocks with rattle can paint? I have a Kimber Montana and others I'd like to try. Will it stick ok? And do you clear coat it?
Lets see........
Take your garden variety Remington 700 Custom KS, 300 H&H
Take the barreled action out of the stock.
Next, lightly sand the stock with either a sanding block or wet/dry sand paper, say 80 to 120 grit. Coarse enough to notice.
In this case I got some Flat, Tan , Camo Krylon paint for the base coat and a can of Clear Acrylic spray for the sealer.
What's the old saying, plan your work and work your plan. A couple weeks before i ordered some Krylon webbing spray from Mr. Art Supplies,(as you will not find this at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) over the "innanet". I got Gold, Black and White. I used only the Gold an Black on this stock.
After roughing up the surface, spray two or three light coats of the Tan Camo spray, allowing sufficient time between coats to dry.
I wanted to see how the webbing spray applied, so i tried a bit on a sheet of white poster board
After a couple experiments I went to work.
IIRC, I sprayed the black on first.
Let it dry then applied the gold webbing spray.
Sometimes less is more.
After the webbing spray dried, I smoothed off the 'tits' with #0000 steel wool, and applied several light coats of clear acrylic spray.
It has served me well over the years!
ya!
GWB
My only take-away from this whole post was that you shot a turkey with a .300 H&H! Damn!
i've done 2 870s and about to do another once it warms above 65 here.. i don't care much for looks, other than i want the thing camoed. i sand the stock (wood or plastic) with 80gr sandpaper and wipe the metal i'm going to paint with acetone 2 separate times. i spray everything with a primer coat, let dry for about an hour, then grab some leaves and start spraying a dab of od green, some flat brown, and some sand color. repeat as needed to cover any place you missed. after i'm satisfied with the camo i spray on a clear coat (flat). done. if any paint wears off i just wipe the area off and hit it with a single spray of some flat color used in the original paint job. i admire many of the first class paint jobs i see on the web but i don't have the patience.
I got bored and gave the rattle cans a try earlier this winter. Figured it would get my mind off a new rifle. Tikka t3 light’s black Tupperware got taped off, sanded, green base coat then some tiger stripes. I call it my poor mans nula lol. I sanded between coats and got a little to aggressive so the original stock shows through on high spots. Wife made me spray it in backyard so pick a calmer day then I did to get more even coating. Used matte clear coat, don’t know durability as I’ve not been out shooting it yet. Worse case it gets stripped and done again when I’m bored. Funny part is I bought a new Forbes anyway.
Go back to this baseline and KISS. Keep it simple stupid.
Take the lessons learned and do it waaaay better round 2.
Go with black matte base and matte dark green spanish moss web spray pattern. The green in this pic is olive. And wrap the webbing tight as fugg with coat thread again and not have the smudge areas in spots or at least not as pronounced as in the 1st try I did that is pictured. Then shoot it with matte clear coat.
Is primer necessary? And are 2 paint coats enough?
I tape everything I don’t want to paint off and wipe the stock down using acetone or denatured alcohol. Always wear latex gloves as oils from hands cause issues.
I use a primer as a base coat.
Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Brownells Aluma-Hyde works really well. Just not as many colors as Krylon.
I use Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II as an overcoat with Krylon as colors so you get best of both worlds; color palate of Krylon & toughness of Aluma Hyde.
Pay close attention to instructions re: adding coats and take your time.
Is primer necessary? And are 2 paint coats enough?
I tape everything I don’t want to paint off and wipe the stock down using acetone or denatured alcohol. Always wear latex gloves as oils from hands cause issues.
I use a primer as a base coat.
Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Brownells Aluma-Hyde works really well. Just not as many colors as Krylon.
I use Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II as an overcoat with Krylon as colors so you get best of both worlds; color palate of Krylon & toughness of Aluma Hyde.
Pay close attention to instructions re: adding coats and take your time.
Alumhyde II matte clear Did you have any issues with it over krylon??? How long for the krylon to dry and cure before you hit it with the Aluma hyde II???
Careful with Aluma-Hyde "matte" clear I bought some and coated my painted stock and it was the most glossy clear coat I've ever used. Ruined my paint job. In the reviews it sounds like I'm not alone. Brownells offered to send another can, but my paint job was already ruined.
It's actually a nice brown but that was shot with an old phone. Built it back in the mid 80's and my dad thought all stocks were made of wood. Had to kind of sneak this one in or he might not have allowed me on the ranch.LOL.
I am continually astounded at how quickly people make up their minds on little evidence or none at all. Jack O'Connor