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Valve guides don't need lubrication. The valve stem is harder than woodpecker lips, graphite in the cast iron head is all the lube needed. There's generally. 002"~.003" clearance, a valve stem isn't going to seeze up.
Lead was used to lube the exhaust valve seat...

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This high dollar stuff is pretty amusing for a flathead engine designed in 1939 to run on 70 octane WHITE GAS.

The flathead ford tractor engine used in the 2N, 9N, and 8N had hardened valve seats from the introduction in 1939.

Again, go down to the local gas station and fill a couple five gallon cans with the cheapest stuff they sell. The tractor can not tell the difference.


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I have been replacing a quart of motor oil with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil, in my pick ups, for years. I guest works fine, as I get high mileage out of my vehicles.

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I believe my friend puts a certain ratio of MMO in aviation fuel that he runs in his muscle cars, hot rods and exotic cars.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by victoro
Originally Posted by Reloder28
I run mostly ATF in my diesel fuel to boost cetane. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil as a fuel additive alternately.


I've been told that ATF can screw up injectors in diesel and gasoline engines. For 16 years I've been using a mixture of Power Service (to increase the cetane/clean injectors) and TWC3 2 cycle oil (to lubricate the injector pump and injectors). Every time I fill up I add 7/10 of an ounce of the mixture for every gallon of diesel. I used a MMO/Power Service mix for about a year until I found out that 2 cycle oil is a much better lubricant than MMO. MMO is almost all mineral oil with just a few other additives, it does smell good though..

Bad for common rail diesels, and really bad for DPF and SCR.


300,000+ miles on my 99 7.3L Powerstroke, all of them with light to moderate towing, & the motor still has all of its original internal parts. It runs better now than it did when I drove it off the lot. I have been driving tractor trailers as well as my own personal diesel truck since 1987, which is where I began using ATF in the tank. Have never experienced a single malfunction or concern, ever. Fuel mileage suffers without it given this water they call diesel these days. Noticeable upgrade with it.



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Yep, ZDDP is for the exhaust valve seat to replace the lead that was in fuel. Avgas is for high compression engines. The 8n is not.. MMO is a good lubricant, but don't see it helping a valve seat.

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Originally Posted by smithrjd
.......MMO is a good lubricant, but don't see it helping a valve seat.


It sure will free a sticky, collapsed valve lifter on a Chevrolet V8.


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Originally Posted by smithrjd
Yep, ZDDP is for the exhaust valve seat to replace the lead that was in fuel. Avgas is for high compression engines. The 8n is not.. MMO is a good lubricant, but don't see it helping a valve seat.


No, ZDDP is for the oil, and it cushions the lobes of the cam, the mating surface of the lifters, etc..

Folks should add it to the oil for ANYTHING running a flat tappet cam. The new SN oils don’t have enough zinc, anymore.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.sp...at-is-zddp-benefits-of-zinc-in-oil/30870

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Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by victoro
Originally Posted by Reloder28
I run mostly ATF in my diesel fuel to boost cetane. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil as a fuel additive alternately.


I've been told that ATF can screw up injectors in diesel and gasoline engines. For 16 years I've been using a mixture of Power Service (to increase the cetane/clean injectors) and TWC3 2 cycle oil (to lubricate the injector pump and injectors). Every time I fill up I add 7/10 of an ounce of the mixture for every gallon of diesel. I used a MMO/Power Service mix for about a year until I found out that 2 cycle oil is a much better lubricant than MMO. MMO is almost all mineral oil with just a few other additives, it does smell good though..

Bad for common rail diesels, and really bad for DPF and SCR.


300,000+ miles on my 99 7.3L Powerstroke, all of them with light to moderate towing, & the motor still has all of its original internal parts. It runs better now than it did when I drove it off the lot. I have been driving tractor trailers as well as my own personal diesel truck since 1987, which is where I began using ATF in the tank. Have never experienced a single malfunction or concern, ever. Fuel mileage suffers without it given this water they call diesel these days. Noticeable upgrade with it.


ATF is a great additive for my diesel tractors. I’ve been adding ATF since I bought my first semi tractor. My current N14 Celect plus has 1,163,000 miles on it with two injectors replaced and I rolled in new rods and mains at 968,000 miles. I keep the overhead run and keep the oil changed. I can’t speak to the new diesels with the egr and def but I can say that the ATF works great in new deleted engines. I my friends are deleting all their new engines and running ATF and getting great durability. One truck I personally know of with a newer motor has just flipped a million miles running Florida to California every week with only regular maintenance. No injectors , turbos , or anything else major.


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We owned the engine rebuild shop during the late 80's through 2000ish. We saw the switch to unleaded. We cut heads for hard seats but damn near every burned valve was from an exhaust leak....not fuel choice.

High octane fuel is actually harder to ignite and can be a pita if you don't have the compression to run it and the carb dialed for it.

I'd run non ethanol and never look back.


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I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Originally Posted by high_country_
We owned the engine rebuild shop during the late 80's through 2000ish. We saw the switch to unleaded. We cut heads for hard seats but damn near every burned valve was from an exhaust leak....not fuel choice.

High octane fuel is actually harder to ignite and can be a pita if you don't have the compression to run it and the carb dialed for it.

I'd run non ethanol and never look back.

During that time frame I worked at a GM engine plant. I don't remember the year, when we came out with the high rail heads we had three different types of exhaust valve seats. One was the stock seat, trucks got the induction- hardened cast iron seats, performance heads got the stelite inserts. We also put the rotater caps on the exhaust valves. Not sure how much good they did...

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Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by victoro
Originally Posted by Reloder28
I run mostly ATF in my diesel fuel to boost cetane. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil as a fuel additive alternately.


I've been told that ATF can screw up injectors in diesel and gasoline engines. For 16 years I've been using a mixture of Power Service (to increase the cetane/clean injectors) and TWC3 2 cycle oil (to lubricate the injector pump and injectors). Every time I fill up I add 7/10 of an ounce of the mixture for every gallon of diesel. I used a MMO/Power Service mix for about a year until I found out that 2 cycle oil is a much better lubricant than MMO. MMO is almost all mineral oil with just a few other additives, it does smell good though..

Bad for common rail diesels, and really bad for DPF and SCR.


300,000+ miles on my 99 7.3L Powerstroke, all of them with light to moderate towing, & the motor still has all of its original internal parts. It runs better now than it did when I drove it off the lot. I have been driving tractor trailers as well as my own personal diesel truck since 1987, which is where I began using ATF in the tank. Have never experienced a single malfunction or concern, ever. Fuel mileage suffers without it given this water they call diesel these days. Noticeable upgrade with it.


I'm aware of it's use in vehicles of that vintage. Happy for you.

I did the same in my '93 F250 diesel. After talking to a trucking fleet mechanic, on his suggestion, I switched to adding 2 stroke oil for lubricity. Its designed for lube, designed to burn. Better than ATF, IMO.

But, I wouldn't use it in my '11 F250 w/ DPF. It would foul that.

Seems doable in a deleted truck as daveinjax posted.


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