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They are nice. Congrats.

I like the color. Seeing more of that color vehicles and it's definitely growing on me

Last edited by Joel/AK; 01/13/24.
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Congrats! You'll enjoy it.



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Congrats! Still loving mine.....2 years and 28500 miles.


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Love the 3.0 with the Max tow only 200 miles on it so far about 24.8 MPG and lots of power. Been around 5 to 10 F warms up quick GM says plug it in around 0 F.


kk alaska

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Any emissions issues with the 3.0 ....dpf filter, egr valve, etc.


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Not that I have read the GM 3.0 is the only one left Ford & Dodge tried. think both have been discontinued. GM seems to have nailed it with the inline 6. Talked to 3 different guys running several 3.0 GM,s with no issues, every one of them loves them. Go drive one very impressive.


kk alaska

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how well does the 3.0 start when its sub zero and you cant plug in ???



the larger common rail motors will start right up at -15 or 20 , although it is easier on things to plug them in at those temps

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Would highly recommend antigel in fuel in very cold temps. I have only 300 miles on mine but with recent cold spell in teens i put antigel in just in case.

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Originally Posted by sdgunslinger
how well does the 3.0 start when its sub zero and you cant plug in ???



the larger common rail motors will start right up at -15 or 20 , although it is easier on things to plug them in at those temps

Foolish, that anyone would "inform" Alaskans on anything cold weather related. I'm actually fkn shocked at the fairweather, 24hourtwattfire responses of recent. Everything from informing Alaskans on proper fuel supplements, to driving on ice, to starting a fkn diesel in the cold. There's hypothetical thinking out loud, then there's actually LIVING in a cold sht-hole, with a diesel.

All diesels have to be plugged in during Alaska winters. It saves wear on the starter, and many other components.

A common solution, where a diesel is parked at remote trail heads in remote locations: bring a compact generator of sufficient wattage. Use every fkn watt that generator will produce.

Here's my routine coming back to a diesel in below zero temps:

Park dog team, start gen.

Plug in.

By the time I get my dog sled loaded down, and the dogs stuffed in the dog box, my truck is close to starting.

Anyhow, 2600 watts weighs under 100 lbs, will power a block heater, oil pan heater, trickle charger and a hair dryer on low.

Hair dryer under the hood does amazing things. Warms fuel lines, air intake, turbo, oil lines, etc. Really speeds up the plug-in from 2 hours, to one hour.

The trickle chargers actually increase the cold cranking amps, the batteries begin heating from within.

My yammy ef 2600 starts at 30 below zero. Needs to be insulated during the operation though.

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Someone mention "anti gel".

Our winter diesel here in Alaska has a proper additive package. But a good fuel supplement helps. Especially considering that winter grade diesel might not have been in the tank when that first Alaskan cold spell kicks off. Start mildly treating the fuel in September. Then lay it on thick come November. I actually pour 8 oz of the stuff, to a fill-up.

I've found hotshots winter diesel is good sht. All sorts of improvements:
Deicer
Increased cold pour point
Lubricity
Cetane boost.

You can literally hear the clatter disappear on that 30 below zero start up. I think it's the cetane booster in the mix, but dunno.

Coldest I've ever started a diesel:
57 below zero ambient, 6bt cummins. My fkn radiator fluid looked like a green slushy.

Last edited by mainer_in_ak; 01/20/24.
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mainer , I only was asking if the GM 3.0 was a good starter in very cold temps . I am not trying to "inform" Alaskans about anything

since you didnt answer that question , I guess you dont know ?


for your information , Ive only been running all sorts of diesels in subzero temps for maybe the last 50 years and during that period Ive used all the tricks at one time or another to get stuff started and keep it running , and Ive tried out almost every commonly available fuel additive (including Hot shots) and know why you'd want to use them in cold conditions

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I have had 3 of the 3.0 Duramax trucks so far, here in the Great Plains we get some cold weather. At least single digits down to -15 or so. Always used Howe's additive when the temps got below 30 and plug in at night when it gets below 20 degrees. Never a problem with starting but this is not Alaska.

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After Mainers post, took my suitcase generator today Costco Firman 2100 around 45# in the shed been around 15F and below since October started 4th pull, Let it warm up and plugged it into block heater on the 24 GMC 3.0 easily carry the load will have it in the back, for cold winter trips, If I need it in extreme cold, with no plug in.

Pretty common to go on a couple day cabin or snowmachine trip at -25 F come back and due to cold soak, its tough to get anything to run.

The 3.0 diesel seems to warm up fast in cold weather, not like a HD diesel.


Last edited by kk alaska; 01/22/24.

kk alaska

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Originally Posted by kk alaska
After Mainers post, took my suitcase generator today Costco Firman 2100 around 45# in the shed been around 15F and below since October started 4th pull, Let it warm up and plugged it into block heater on the 24 GMC 3.0 easily carry the load will have it in the back, for cold winter trips, If I need it in extreme cold, with no plug in.

Pretty common to go on a couple day cabin or snowmachine trip at -25 F come back and due to cold soak, its tough to get anything to run.

The 3.0 diesel seems to warm up fast in cold weather, not like a HD diesel.

I have noticed that as well. If plugged in, it was blowing at least partially warm air within 12 blocks of my house when leaving for work in the morning

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I see gm caved to the epa, they're recommending absurdly thin oil in these 3.0's: 0w/20. Yep, you'll see slightly better fuel economy, but it will come at a cost.

That is fking insane. I don't know what yall's warranties stipulate, but I would never run oil that thin in any diesel. As those bearings and rings begin loosening up, that's not much protection. I bet oil consumption will be prevalent after the first 100k miles.

When these get a few year on em and start showing up used, I'd only consider 5w40 even in the coldest temps.

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Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak
I see gm caved to the epa, they're recommending absurdly thin oil in these 3.0's: 0w/20. Yep, you'll see slightly better fuel economy, but it will come at a cost.

That is fking insane. I don't know what yall's warranties stipulate, but I would never run oil that thin in any diesel. As those bearings and rings begin loosening up, that's not much protection. I bet oil consumption will be prevalent after the first 100k miles.

When these get a few year on em and start showing up used, I'd only consider 5w40 even in the coldest temps.

I wondered the same thing myself Mainer. I have a 2017 Colorado ZR2 with their 2.8L diesel. Just about to turn 160K miles on it and I use the 5/30 Synthetic in it. No oil consumption problems, but I have wondered if I could use 5/40 in it, as it would keep all my oil the same since I use it in my Dodge Cummins and my tractor. Might be too chicken to change at this point as I can't see any issues with the current oil.

Anybody swapped their little motor's to 5/40?


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Originally Posted by JPro
Around here, diesel is usually 30-40% more expensive than 87 octane gas, so bear that in mind also. If buying a 3.5 EcoBoost 4x4 and leaving the stock tires on it, you can expect about 19-20 average if you run highway about 60-70% of the time. At least that's what mine averaged with the stock Goodyears for the first 40k miles. Some tanks were 20.5-21mpg. I lost about 2mpg going to 34" E-rated all terrains. If going diesel in a new half ton pickup, it's going to have to average around 24-25mpg to break even on the fuel costs versus regular unleaded gasoline.

One thing I didn't know at the time, with the 3.5tt you're not making peak power unless using 93 octane. With 87 you're losing about 20rwhp and 12lb ft compared to 93. Car and Driver did the dyno testing and 0-60 (5.3 vs 5.9 seconds 93 vs 87). And Ford recommends 91 or better for towing or hot conditions. So there goes the cheaper fuel discount.

Loving the F150 Lariat though, just wish it got better mileage. Had I known this before, might have gone with the AT4 despite the inferior interior (and poor dealership experience)

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Just bought one, LTZ Z71. Wife wanted the bells and whistles. It has all of them.. So far love it. Went from a 2500 long bed Duramax to a 1/2 ton. Much easier to drive in the city and parking. Will see about pulling a trailer. Specs are a bit light. 9K towing and 900 on the hitch. No max tows available around here. Only 1600 payload. Trailer max at 7K so alright there. Hitch weight could be an issue. Nice ride and with only 150 miles showing 27mpg mixed driving. Wonder if these will hold their value like the HD ones do.

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My max tow Crew cab std bed 3.0 just looked at the specs. 12.5 towing, max tongue wt 1250#, max payload 1641 #. Been -10 to -15 24 7 starts fine when plugged in—about 25 MPG with 320 miles on the odometer. Going to drive the Subaru till it warms up on short trips.


kk alaska

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My long term average MPG was about 24.5 in mixed driving, probably about 70% highway and 30% city/stop/go

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