Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Husqvarna 1600 trigger

I have acquired a custom stocked Husqvarna 1600 in 9.3x62; a beautiful rifle. But I am dissatisfied with the trigger. It currently has a trigger from Huber Concepts, but I have found it difficult to adjust to a satisfactory pull. There is conflicting information as to whether a Timney for the 98 Mauser will work, with some sources saying yes and others saying only with considerable modification to the stock to accommodate the safety. Timney themselves say their #301 trigger will work. Before I order this part, does anyone have experience replacing the trigger on these? I realize it is a somewhat uncommon rifle, but there is a lot of experience represented on this site.

I've got two Husqvara original HVA's in 30/06. I put Mr. Huber's triggers in both of them. I agree, they are a bit difficult/finicky to get adjusted to what you like but, once "there" , they are pretty sweet. The triggers came with pretty good installation and adjustment instruction sheets but, I still had to call Mr. Huber and talk to him directly. EXCEEDINGLY knowledgeable on triggers and a great guy to talk to. Once you get them "close" to what you want, the adjustment screws take very, very minor amount of movement to finalize the set-up you want. Turned out a lot of my difficulty was moving the adjustment screws too much. I also mirror polished the area under the receiver where the little ball bearing pivot runs. That little allenhead screw thats just forward of the trigger face is the heart of his system. That little screw puts pressure on a little spring that in-turn puts pressure on that little ball bearing. The amount of pressure on the ball bearing effects the pull weight.

Huber Triggers

In the end, they don't "feel" like a normal trigger where you apply finger pressure on the trigger until it "breaks". These do have a very little movement/take up before the sears release but, it is SOOO smooth now. It does take a few shots to get used to them but once you do, you may really learn to like them.

Edited to add: I use a Cratex fine diamond polishing bar. It is hard enough to stay "flat" and keep the small surfaces I'm polishing flat and polishes things up very well without taking off a lot of metal. I use it to polish up sear faces and other fine polishing work on triggers/safeties.

I bought one with the Timney already installed.I know nothing else about it except it's a very nice trigger and much better than the HVA trigger on my other rifle.

I ,too, bought a Huber Concepts trigger for a Husqvarna 1600,mine is 6.5-06. .I sent it up to Greydog,, a friend and a great gunsmith. He found mistakes the first gunsmith had made ,but when it came to the trigger, I had asked him what he could do about it he wrote a large note: TRIGGER SUX.he said one could modify a Timmy like a Zastava, but he didn't want to do one, . I was talking with Steve's friend Mitch,, another gunsmith, he said a Timmy, but that you needed to surface grind the action. He almost had whip lash, when I answered "Good I have one." I haven't done anything more than that.

I aguired a 1600 stock at a gunshow and fitted a M1896/38 sporter into it. The Swedes had a trigger block side safety that they installed on their 6.5x55 sporters. The stock had a slot but not as much room as a Bold or a Timmy would take. .I had to open up the slot when I put a FN '51 Mauser with a Bold trigger into a Parker Hale stock. That arm sticks out a fair bit.

Tradewinds had Timmy make a trigger for the 1600,when they imported the HVA..

Just thinking about it, maybe one could adapt a Zastava trigger,

Sorry, i think I only asked more questions.

Who the fugg is Timmy?

So I can't spell, but what did you add to the topic ? A rather large 0

There was some talk recently in the Mauser portion of the forum on this if it helps.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...na-1640-replacement-trigger#Post15946274

As others have mentioned the Timney will need some safety reconfiguration unless you can find a older Timney or Jaeger that is made to use with the Husqvarna factory safety lever. Maybe the original pivot Mauser style triggers that came on these rifles would be another option for you. Especially if tuned by a gunsmith.

Wrongtime - if you want to go back to a factory trigger, I'll dig up the two that I have and I'll mail you one to try. If you don't like it, just mail it back. If you do.....just buy me a beer sometime.....or better yet a dram of scotch in Africa with me.

Forgot to add to my original reply: You can also take a pair of flat face pliers and take out the trigger return spring, put it in the pliers and fully but gently compress it a few times and refit and try it. This will take a little weight off the pull. Just be 100% sure the trigger fully resets. One "last" thing to try is to remove 1/2 coil at a time on the return spring. This really is a last resort thing and do it very very judiciously as if you cut too much you can't put it back and the inside diamerte is too small to get a needle nose pliers in each end and stretch it out a little bit. Good new is if you do mess it up you DON'T have to try and find a replacement factory spring. Just take your old one to the hardware store and look thru the small springs they have there and find one close in diameter. If it's a little long, just cut it down.

Whenever you finish, make sure you do a little "drop test" to make sure the trigger won't accidently trip.

Thank you for all the helpful and generous replies. M3, I think I’m going to spend a bit more effort on the existing Huber trigger; but if that doesn’t work out I may just accept your kind offer. Thank you very much.

WrongT - I didn't know if you actually looked at Mr. Huber's website or not. The installation and set up instructions are HERE

You just have to scroll down the page to the HVA actions.

Follow his instructions to get to the basic setting, then you can play with all three till you find what you like. Just make SMALL adjustments. By small, I'm talking 1/16 turns or less on a small allen wrench. Putting a mirror polish on the sear faces and on the receiver where the little ball bearing rides made it REALLY nice....for me anyway. Liked the first one so much is why I did the second one with one. Lots of trial and error. The best part is since it's already on yours and in your stock, you don't have to also fiddle with removing wood or opening the trigger guard trigger channel to get it to fit in your stock.



Here's a pic of the two I'm talking about - both 30/06. These are what I call "rescue rifles". Top one I picked up in a pawnshop. It's actually an old Sears, J.C. Higgins model 51L made for them by Husqvarna. It was a serious mess when I got it - $250 out the door in 2019. The barrel was so full of "schmutz" when I got it you could just make out it even had rifling. Lots of light surface rust but no pitting and the stock surface had a lot of surface scratches. Wasn't too worried about the rifling as the barrels were chrome lined. Cleaned up very well and a little cold blue to sort out the bluing after oil and steal wool. Rifling took a little work but cleaned up bright and shinny with sharp and clean edges and no sign of pitting. Bedded the action, put the first Huber trigger in it. Had the stock LOP cut a little to fit my wife and a nice soft recoil pad and had a silver grip cap engraved with the Albanian double headed eagle. Gave to her as a birthday present. Damn thing shoots sub MOA and I almost wanted to keep it for myself.

Bottom one I picked up from a gunsmith that has a table next to me at one of the little local shows. I was telling him about the first one and he said he had an old HVA 51L action and barrel he got 15+ years ago for a customer to do a custom build out of it but never did it. The barrel was out of the action and the stock on this one was a real mess. The internal "webbing" of the wood was badly cracked behind the recoil lug and there was a crack behind the rear tang that ran length wise back about 2" but didn't look like it went all the way down thru. He said he'd sell the whole thing to me for $300. Sold.

All the wood was still in the internal webbing so I just put a couple of brass pins behind the recoil lug and recessed them. Put one more just forward of the trigger (partially covered by the bolt handle. I got the Dremel out and made little V channels in the internal cracks after I had it pinned. Then stared on the crack at the wrist. Turns out it only went maybe a 1/4 of the way down and back a little more than the 2" I could initially see. Made a V channel starting from either side of the tang and back along the wrist and put in another recessed brass pin. Put in the Huber trigger and made sure it all cleared everything and set to the initial settings. Then, I taped off the stock and treated all the metal with release agent and mixed up a big batch of Acraglass and bedded the hell out of it, from 1" forward of the recoil lug all the way back and down into the wrist and filled the recessed pins. Lightly bolted together and etc. Pull it apart after about 4hs of cure time, trimmed up the glass overrun with a razer knife while still a little soft and put it all back together and let is sit for 24hrs. Pulled it apart, sanded it all down and just did a few coats of boiled linseed oil and that was it. The forestock was already shortened when I got it and that was fine as I liked putting the front sling mount on the flat.

A little fine tuning of the trigger and this damn things is sub MOA as well.

Only reason I'm posting all of this is to encourage you, WrongT to not give up on that trigger. It will take some time but I think you'll like it in the end.

Oh, and here's a pic of my wife with her rifle in Bots in Aug 2019 with a crazy nice non-typical impala. Non-typical because the horns curled like a kudu.



She's going with us with her HVA on this June's Bots trip and I'm taking my HVA and blood it this year too.

I just replaced the factory husky trigger with the timney. I had to so some woodwork inside the stock to get everything to fit up correctly. The safety still seems a little tight, but I haven't had time to fool with it the last few weeks. Probably had an hour in the stock work and getting the trigger set how i wanted it. I tried to inquire about the huber trigger, but still haven’t gotten a response from them.

Please don't post pictures of those purty looking Husqvarna's. I have only one (in 30-06 with the Huber trigger.)

You're making my checkbook hurt since it knows you've motivated me to buy yet another Husky.

Btw, I also like the Huber Concepts Husqvarna 1640 trigger. The adjustment time one has to put in is well worth it.

I put one of those Huber Concept trigger in my 6.5-06 built on a 1600. The gunshow find required some remedial work. So I sent it off to Greydog, a true metal. magician , with instructions to fix the previous gunsmith's work and a please could you adjust the trigger.I wasn't happy with my job. It came back with a redone chamber and a TRIGGER SUX note. His note was in capitals ,too.He did slightly worse than me. I was discussing the 1600 trigger problem with another gunsmith, a buddy of my hunting partner. He said the M98 Timmey would work but the receiver needs some surface grinder work. My M96/M38 6.5x55 Husky sits in 1600 stock . They are so sweet.

Forgot about this thread...need to get one of those Hubers!