Unless one of you boys have a Homelite 8-29 (as far as I know the biggest saw ever built, frequently seen with a 87 inch bar for ripping redwood etc) Roundoak hereby nominated "Bull Buck" for the Manly Man Sidehill Gouger Society. For those of you pilgrims in Ioway what ain't seen big timber, the Mac SP 125 makes full grown redwoods quake in terror. The Sierra Club did a study, and a 6 hour day with a Mac 125 burns so much mix it causes the Pacific Ocean to rise 2 inches. Which the Sierra Club don't like, but clams do.
They were rated for a 60” bar
I got ported saw only 7ccs smaller. And another 8 ccs larger. Also ported. Lol And they vibrate way too much
The power sharpeners are fine for the guy cutting firewood next to his house, or the cutter who uses his saw less than 4 hours a year. The downside is once you use them on your chain you have to keep using them. A file will give you way more life in your chain and easier to touch up every time you fill up.
Interesting point as to the original post. I'll stick with the little plate to slap on and file them down but good to know!
I cut some 70+ km from my house and take a half dozen chains and two bars with me, each time I refuel I drop on another chain and change the bar over as it saves getting fingers hot and keeps my chains in good order. I cut black box and river gum which has a lot of dirt in it from white-ants...I don't piss about with chains and files as I am not interested in sitting about touching up chains instead of cutting.
Eight to ten loads gets us through winter, the fire will be lit in another week and it will go out around September/October.
Oh...and I am down to an even dozen chains for the 372 and a half dozen for the 455...both are 3/8 .058...seems to work for me.
JSTUART those termite pipes surely blunt a chain in no time at all! When I used to get firewood they were the bane of my existence. Used to borrow a farm chainsaw, even bought a sharpening kit for it, the farmers seem to use it without ever sharpening......
JSTUART those termite pipes surely blunt a chain in no time at all! When I used to get firewood they were the bane of my existence. Used to borrow a farm chainsaw, even bought a sharpening kit for it, the farmers seem to use it without ever sharpening......
Hello Rocdoc, a bit like the fellows at work, they all just wander in and grab a saw and to a man feel compelled to use the damned file to screw things up...cockies...council workers...same diff.
The power sharpeners are fine for the guy cutting firewood next to his house, or the cutter who uses his saw less than 4 hours a year. The downside is once you use them on your chain you have to keep using them. A file will give you way more life in your chain and easier to touch up every time you fill up.
Interesting point as to the original post. I'll stick with the little plate to slap on and file them down but good to know!
I cut some 70+ km from my house and take a half dozen chains and two bars with me, each time I refuel I drop on another chain and change the bar over as it saves getting fingers hot and keeps my chains in good order. I cut black box and river gum which has a lot of dirt in it from white-ants...I don't piss about with chains and files as I am not interested in sitting about touching up chains instead of cutting.
Eight to ten loads gets us through winter, the fire will be lit in another week and it will go out around September/October.
Oh...and I am down to an even dozen chains for the 372 and a half dozen for the 455...both are 3/8 .058...seems to work for me.
You light the fire in April and it goes out in September? Where are you, Australia?
I use a little $30 Harbor Freight grinder to sharpen my chains. It works good, but technique is everything.
I set the stops on the grinder where it only dusts off the cutting edge of each tooth. Also, I file down the rakers the first time I sharpen the chain. In my opinion, the rakers are too high on the chains sold today. After taking a 16th of an inch off the rakers, the chain teeth take a deeper bite and results in a faster, cleaner cut.
JSTUART those termite pipes surely blunt a chain in no time at all! When I used to get firewood they were the bane of my existence. Used to borrow a farm chainsaw, even bought a sharpening kit for it, the farmers seem to use it without ever sharpening......
Amazxing the crap you pick up on this site. Can't imagine buzzing through a nice log and hitting a freaking clay tube. That would put the Kibosh to things.
What do you do then? I assume the thing would run up the trunk aways? Just keep cutting? Or abandon the log?
Do you run round chain or chisle
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
I have a couple- maybe 3? - of the File-N-Joint jigs. They work so well (and I don't do that much cutting), that I've never found the need for anything else for the last 50 years.- One goes in each chainsaw case that I am using. I have the flat raker guides too.
Freehand filing in the field will ef up a chain in a hurry- seen it many times, so I don't even try, myself. That Stihl devise looks like it may work for touchup if used with care, but I'd still use a decent jig- guide before starting each day, to reset the cutters accurately. Nearly everyone rocks the file on the stroke without a jig or clamp-on guide.
Working trail crew for the USFS back in late 60's and early 70's, I noticed people ( including myself) got a lot more careless with cutting tools when wearing chaps, be it with chainsaws axes, or brushing tools. I've never owned a pair for myself since then - when we were required to wear them (if the boss was looking). Nicked a couple boots over the decades, but that's it.
We had a couple "fire-safe" guys thin out our yard trees last year on their off-days, for additional $. Both had been "trained" on how to field sharpen chainsaws every fill-up. By noon both were claiming I needed new chains on both saws. They WERE new the day before.... including one of the saws. After that, I did it myself with the File-N-Joints
I'm going to the stihl shop this week for mower blades and will be checking out the 2n1. Is the holder itself 1 size for all just add your file for saw you're using?
JSTUART those termite pipes surely blunt a chain in no time at all! When I used to get firewood they were the bane of my existence. Used to borrow a farm chainsaw, even bought a sharpening kit for it, the farmers seem to use it without ever sharpening......
Amazxing the crap you pick up on this site. Can't imagine buzzing through a nice log and hitting a freaking clay tube. That would put the Kibosh to things.
What do you do then? I assume the thing would run up the trunk aways? Just keep cutting? Or abandon the log?
Do you run round chain or chisle
Just keep cutting and keep sharpening, pipe runs up a fair way. Timber in some places is hard to get to be too fussy 😩
Was funny for the kids if you holed into a bee hive!
Not sure what you mean by run round chain or chisel?
The semi chisel is what we call round, it holds up better than chisel, but doesn't cut as well.
The flat ground cuts better than normal chisel, but dulls even faster. At least that's my understanding on flat ground. It's common around here, more a western thing, where I'm guessing they use it on cleaner wood. Would like to try it, but supposedly it's hard to hand file and the jigs don't work for it. Need to order a loop and give it a whirl, just to see. Be my luck to hit something right out of the box, and still not get to run it.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
I ground all my chains like your square pic, there's an art to it. The guy I bucked logs behind starting out in the woods filed his and my chains square before I bought a grinder, his hand filing was a thing of beauty OMG did they cut.
Anyone use the timberline? 30 secondsto set up, 3 spins a tooth.....and you can't get a better finish.
Originally Posted by BrentD
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.