Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Beam Scale

Yes Sir, that's where I've been for many years.

One NOTE: As you, I keep my E scale ON and it doesn't HAVE to warm up * That might have some bearing on others problems with E scales.

Ain't lookin back.


Jerry

Not any more!
Thanks for the heads up. I've been wanting to upgrade my beam scale and loved the description of how nice this unit it. Never heard of it before but it looks mighty nice even in the poor pics on the ebay ad.

Cheers,
Rex

Due to my "normal" obsessive-compulsive disorder, I have several beam scales ranging from several decades old to within the past decade. Have tried all the ones remaining with check-weights, and they all weigh within .1 grain. Which one I use depends on what I'm weighing, and where--have two scales in my main loading room in our garage, and an older Ohaus and a more recent Redding.

Also have another Redding of the same model in my other loading room, in the basement for use during extremely cold weather. Also have an old Herter's on a shelf in my office, for checking stuff while writing articles and books.

Have tried several e-scales, but those that provide any advantage in speed (and maybe accuracy) are too expensive for me (or most readers) to care about. So the scales on hand are used to check the accuracy of mechanical measures--and again I have several. Would rather use those for the amount of loading I do with some cartridges than any "affordable" e-scale tried so far. But also admit that my uses aren't the same as most weekend handloaders, or some competitive shooters--though one of my measures is an Lyman 55 Culver conversion, which for a LONG time was favored by top benchrest competitors--a generous gift from Ken Oehler.

M D

What makes the E scale faster 'for me' is the digital readout is large enuff to see quicker.
I don't have to elevate the E scale to eye level as I would a beam.

EVERY time I load I check the E scale with with weights before and occasionally along the way.
I must be 'lucky', I've never had a problem.


Jerry

Jerry,

Apparently you misunderstood my post, as many do. I have timed charging empty brass with both mechanical measures and e-scales, and unless you're using one of the expensive e-scales (which are essentially electronic/mechanical measures) then a LOT more time is involved per round.

If you prefer weighing every powder charge, then just about any e-scale will probably work better/faster than a balance scale. The typical argument from most guys is that an e-scale works faster because they're seating a bullet in a charged case as the next case fills.

But that is FAR slower than charging, say, 50-100 rounds of sized, primed brass with an accurate powder measure, then seating bullets afterward. As I've explained more than once in my articles and books, this is far faster--the reason it's the method I use for loading big batches of ammo, such as prairie dog rounds.

Yes, I understand the diff in volume loading.

I don’t need to load in volume so...

Thank You

Jerry

That is what I do. I charge cases 50 at a time, from a mechanical measure, then seat bullets etc. The scale is only used to set the measure.

I did some experimentation a while back, and found that not only is this much faster, it also gave rise to results which were, if anything, more consistent than weighing and trickling.

This being the case an electronic dispenser offers me nothing, and would be much slower, and that is leaving aside issues of zero drift, the effects of interference from stray EM fields and other disadvantages of electronic scales and dispensers.

I keep a RCBS electric scale and an Older RCBS 1010 balance beam scale next to each other on a shelf fastened to the wall behind the bench (at eye level and isolated from vibrations from the bench). A set of check-weights lives there too. These are used to check the setup of my Redding, Dillon and Harrel powder measures as well as the accuracy of the bushings in my shotshell reloaders. Kind of anal but it eases my mind when everything agrees. Redundancy is not a bad thing.

I am almost too embarrassed to even shew the antiquated crap I currently use...of course I did use a RCBS electronic scale/thrower combo for the fifteen years I shot 'roos, and found no advantage over what I use now.

I have had a 5-0-5 and a 10-10 and both were fine. I bought a Redding several years ago and it seemed a little more sensitive than the 10-10 so I sold the 10-10 and kept the Redding. I also have a Dillon and Chargemaster electronic scale and have checked weights between the 3 several times and will say that I trust all 3 to be spot on.

When I began handoading in 1974, I bought a new Redding #2. For years I weighed every charge. Finally I got a Redding measure and just used the scale to check the measure. When we moved down here I gave all my old reloading stuff to my kids . Once we were settled in, I replaced everything and got set up again. My new measure is also a Redding BR-30 and the scale to check it with a Redding #2.

Most of the bad reviews I’ve seen, seem to derive from the user’s inability to work with their hands. As a tool and die maker, I’m quite practiced at performing intricate manual tasks.

I have at least ten micrometers of different sizes and types in my chest, and half a dozen slide calipers. They’re not digital electronic. I have no need for or interest in that stuff.

I do like my Dial Calipers over slides now that my eyes are older.

Glad I said something about it then! I think that is going to be a pretty decent scale. I like heavy ones myself with metal pans. Why they put plastic pans on on some of these E scales is beyond me, I have lots of static here, metal is not near as funky, I keep a pack of dryer sheets on the bench.
Sometimes everything clings, like powder sticking in my Lyman #55 measure after I dump, I wipe it down let it dry and poof life is good again.
My heavy Bonanza scale never has this problem like them tiny e scales which usually show different weights under these conditions.

This 81yr old's rememberer refuses to recall the year I began reloading. Reloading is a pleasurable relaxing time for me. I do remember piecemeal collection of equipment in preparation. For $5.00 I bought an OLD Redding balance beam scale. (Don't know model #) It looked pretty rough with rust showing on the cast iron body. Wire brush and Rustoleum rattle can fixed that. The beam weight was bent and needed some TLC and persuasion to straighten up. The wire pan hanger was bent beyond use and a set of pliers fixed that and a little wooden hammer work brought the pan back to usefulness. With my new Redding powder measure I throw charges into the pan and trickle to exact weight. A granule of powder will move the beam and I trickle to the exact grain each and every time. That old beam scale has measured thousands of charges over the years. I occasionally lift the beam off and clean the fulcrum points with a kleenex and acetone. In true loyalty to the National Association of Graybeard curmudgeons (NAGs) and my well seasoned mind set I don't want no new fangled electric device to interrupt my peaceful proven ways.
Jim

Just to pick nits… when I refer to “slide calipers” that’s as opposed to micrometer calipers which we commonly refer to as “micrometers “ or “mics.” Slide calibers can have a dial, a vernier scale or a clumsy, battery operated box with a digital readout. Most of mine are dial, a couple vernier.

I had no idea there were so many flat earthers here!

Electronic scales are the way of the future, as are smokeless powder and cartridge rifles, I'm told. The antediluvians among you should compromise and use one of each. Your grandchildren or great grandchildren can help with turning it on and off, and can teach you how to read the digital scale. Call it a bonding experience. It will help you transition.

I understand the concerns many of you have, but like touch tone phones, elevators and automatic door openers, they are working the bugs out. Think of it, by using one of each, you can promote yourself as scholarly (a researcher), technical (pitting analog against digital) and driven to advance the art of reloading.



We now return you to Curmudgeonly, already in progress.

Canuckians are the world leaders in technology, that is certainly true. I mean look at the Canadian Space program, nothing else comes close. Look at the great strides in medical research fields. (the Canadians stopped covid in it's tracks by shutting down the border, who knew it was Yank Super Spreaders going to Alaska) The great Canadian computer tech companies that literally dominate the industry. Awesome. I mean, why fool with Tim Cook when you can get Red Green on Youtube every day.
I think electronic scales/measures will dominate the field, much like Remington's E-tronix ignition has. Smiley face for the cousins.

I have the same pair upon my bench along with a couple of Dillon 550's, a Lyman DPS III, and an RCBS 10-10.

I like how "positive" a 10-10 is when you set the 10's, and especially the single and tenths grains vs. a 505/502.

Originally the RCBS scales were manufactured in the United States by Ohaus. At some point, RCBS bought the scale designs and right to manufacture them, and moved production first to Mexico, then to China. The Ohaus name was removed from the label on the front of the scales, with only the RCBS name remaining. The molds used to cast the scale bodies were sent first to Mexico, then China, the scales made in those countries still have Made in USA or the like molded into the underside of the scale body. A paper label was placed over the USA to say the new country of manufacture. These labels were not very durable, and easily removed. The boxes they came in were marked with country of origin.

The scales made in Mexico were not as good as the Ohaus units, and the Chinese manufactured scales were complete junk. If you buy one of the older scales, make sure the label says Ohaus, if it doesn’t, it was likely not made in America.

Not knowing the scale was made in China, I purchased a new 10-10 a few years ago, out of the box it didn’t work, and neither did the two replacements RCBS sent me. If you want an older scale, make sure it says Ohaus on the label, or by the made in America Redding that does work.

Having used both electronic and beam scales, I prefer a beam scale.