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Throw this out there for the experts, concrete/ cement folks specifically.
I have a 1909 three story stone house. It has a coal room next to it that was previously converted to a cedar sauna. This is located at the back door. Back door is approximately 5 ft above ground. Top of coal room is concrete patio.
Sauna is accessed in basement.
The concrete on the outside of coal room is deteriorating. I assume even quicker when we use the sauna in winter.
Is there a way to replace old spalling concrete?
Is there a way to hold up concrete roof/ patio and install ICF forms and pour concrete without it shrinking and creating a gap for new wall.
Last edited by KRAKMT; 09/21/21.
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If the place is worth enough, tear out and replace the entire room period.
Osky
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Any contractor worth his salt can temporarily support all that while pouring a new wall.
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Any contractor worth his salt can temporarily support all that while pouring a new wall. I'd probably yard it all out and pour it right.
"Life is tough, even tougher if your stupid" John Wayne
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Any contractor worth his salt can temporarily support all that while pouring a new wall. Yep not really a problem with a competent contractor. When I did concrete we jacked up several houses and poured all new walls
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Campfire 'Bwana
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None of that should be a problem for a real concrete contractor.
Camp is where you make it.
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That is just a run of the mill job for those who like this type of concrete work. I loved the challenge of that sort of work, problem was not too many wanted to spend the bucks. These days around here, too many contractors won't even call you back for a job like this as they can make more money doing the gravy jobs. A true concrete artisan would lap this deal up in a heart beat! I wish I weren't at the end of my game , it would be a fun job. And as been mentioned, don't put a bandage on this , get it torn out and done right!
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Certainly tearing to out would be the best, though I suspect it would lead to more problems. The foundation around the whole house is 1909 concrete, which I am trying to not disturb. Stone for the house is sandstone on old concrete.
I may not have painted the repair picture well- the slab on top of the cellar is the patio. It can’t be lifted like a house that gets set on new foundation. It could be supported but not really lifted.
Last edited by KRAKMT; 09/21/21.
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I'd either form it up and do a grout injection or have someone come in a do a good trowel applied wipe.
It can be done with epoxy as well but that can be quite a bit more expensive but it's certain to last longer because it will fill cracks and bond even with moisture damaged concrete. Grout will too, if done properly, but the wipes have to have the cracks chased and the spalling cleaned away before wiping. Wiping is more of a cosmetic fix while grouting is more durable and total epoxy is the best of all worlds.
Avoiding sag is another issue when it comes to horizontal wipes but good waterproofers (go with a waterproofer not a concrete man) will getnthr mix right to get it applied.
What you think about, you do ... what you do, you become. In a nation where anything goes ... eventually, everything will. We're almost there.
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If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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I am getting a better picture of it, but I have to say, photos work wonders in these situations! I like the idea of what SCRooster described, though from my experience doing a wipe, of cementitious coating or epoxy can just be a temporary thing if the concrete has deteriorated too bad from time and weather( the coating , wipe if you will, may not bond properly over any length of time). Many in this area are specializing in this type of work but are all pricey, imo! Not knowing your climate also leaves me with in incomplete picture. All I have been doing these last few years around here is repairing old farmhouse and barn foundations and I work alone. Sometimes they are too far gone for a simple solution.
Last edited by troublesome82; 09/21/21. Reason: spelling
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Two things:
Spalling is on the exterior wall only or is it both sides? Freezing temps outside in winter?
What is the overall thickness of the concrete wall remaining? Is it still as thick as the other walls away from the sauna?
God Bless America
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Last edited by KRAKMT; 12/19/21.
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Not sure why my pic doesn’t work?
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i would top and bond that.
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Where are you located? Do you get snow in the winter?
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Most all contractors around here want new work and even that's expensive.
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You need to know what the integrity of your existing concrete is. Dragging a tire chain across the suspect concrete and some known good concrete will produce different audible feedback. If the spalling can be repaired with a couple inches of new mud, it can be bonded in. This is a common practice for bridge deck repairs and overlay.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Central Montana. 12 above this morning. Plowed eight inches of fluffy snow this morning.
Thanks for the pic fix.
I think I will need to remove a side, install rebar to hold up top add vapor barrier and pour a new wall?
Last edited by KRAKMT; 12/20/21.
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