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I recently picked up a pre64 .270 fwt, that had the stock cut to accommodate a recoil pad. Since that’s the case I figure the “value” of the stock is diminished. The finish in the stock is worn and could stand to be refinished. Anything I need to be aware of before I try and tackle it myself? I refinished a BLR previously, stripping the poly off with a chemical stripper, so I have some experience. Or would I be better served selling/trading this stock for an uncut stock?

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Don’t remove any wood.
I’d prefer an uncut stock.


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Were it mine, since the value of the stock is already wrecked via the recoil pad I would refinish it to suit me. Might as well plan on freshening the checkering while you're at it too. Worn old checkering juxtaposed to a pretty new fresh finish just makes the whole project look half done.

Bear in mind if it has a factory glossy barrier finish on it, it is undoubtedly lacquer. Winchester stopped varnishing stuff long before that FWT was built - if originality in that regard is a consideration. Again, were it me I would simply strip it and varnish it with multiple coats of gloss varnish rubbed out between coats until grain fill is achieved, and then knock the gloss off and wax it to provide a relatively thin barrier finish not unlike the factory lacquer.

If the condition of the blued steel parts warrants it, perhaps I would be tempted to scrounge up a nice original stock to dress it up for "Sunday go to meeting" and put the redone stock on it for everyday work.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Were it mine, since the value of the stock is already wrecked via the recoil pad I would refinish it to suit me. Might as well plan on freshening the checkering while you're at it too. Worn old checkering juxtaposed to a pretty new fresh finish just makes the whole project look half done.

Bear in mind if it has a factory glossy barrier finish on it, it is undoubtedly lacquer. Winchester stopped varnishing stuff long before that FWT was built - if originality in that regard is a consideration. Again, were it me I would simply strip it and varnish it with multiple coats of gloss varnish rubbed out between coats until grain fill is achieved, and then knock the gloss off and wax it to provide a relatively thin barrier finish not unlike the factory lacquer.

If the condition of the blued steel parts warrants it, perhaps I would be tempted to scrounge up a nice original stock to dress it up for "Sunday go to meeting" and put the redone stock on it for everyday work.

Good options and advice. If it were me, I'd drop it into a Mcmillan hunters compact or hunters edge: Depending on which fill weight the op desires. Here's an old 270 fwt I did just that with:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I also have to ask the op what year his rifle was made. Someone here may have an original stock laying around in the same vintage he needs. The last one I bought was in excellent condition, so you can still find them if you know where to look... As for the OP's rifle, he's right the stock has lost major value. I always say they turned a $400.00 stock into a $150.00 stock when cutting it down. It is what it is now and its fair game for a good recoil pad, refinish and glass bedding as far as I'm concerned. He should end up with a beautiful shooter when done. Keeping in mind if the refinish is done properly. Check out RGK's refinished model 70 here. That is a prime example of how they should look when done right..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
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Thank you all for the replies. It is a 1956 Fwt. I feel like I could strip and refinish it, but the checkering maybe be more than I want to attempt. The bluing on the gun is excellent in my opinion, so I may look around for an original stock. If you know anyone with one please pass it along. Also if I were to have someone do the refin for me, is their someone on the fire who does that sort of thing?

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Lacquer thinner and elbow grease will likely take the finish right off unless someone has added something.
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For a great easy to use finish product check out Timbrluxe website.

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M70 standard grade stock refinished and recheckered by my Bro Justin McMillan.
Bob

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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That stock looks great Bob. Thanks for sharing with the op.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Color, gloss, checkering everything looks just right. Great job !

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Very nice looking job Bob. Justin does nice work!


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Here's one I recently did, by following my varnishing protocols described earlier. 10 coats gloss spar varnish, 1954-vintage standard grade .30-06. Someone in its past had slathered a thick coat of varnish onto the stock, to include the checkering and without removing the metal from the stock. Yep.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Something I found on my pre 64 FTW. The bedding area had deteriorated. The wood was chipped, softening, and in bad shape well the exterior was great. It likely could have been fixed with glass bedding. But I used Minwax wood hardener, and epoxy to repair and seal it. Also the bolt release needs space in the rear bedding surface for freedom of movement.

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Here's one I recently did, by following my varnishing protocols described earlier. 10 coats gloss spar varnish, 1954-vintage standard grade .30-06. Someone in its past had slathered a thick coat of varnish onto the stock, to include the checkering and without removing the metal from the stock. Yep.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


NICE work!
Bob

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Seeing these amazing rifles is making me rethink refinishing mine myself!! Amazing work gentlemen.

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The re-finish job by Justin Mcmillan looks PERFECT. Color, sheen, checkering, all beautiful. I have a hornet that has great metal but needs wood finish done. Been hesitant to let anyone touch it, but I would be happy with a job like that.

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If you refinish, remember what was mentioned earlier do not remove any wood by sanding. Just remove what's left of the original finish by chemical or scraping sanding.Be careful what chemical stripper you use it could also discolor the wood. Raise the dents in the wood with a damp cloth and a iron. dont sand them out.

You can very lightly sand the wood when stripped of finish and after raising dents to clean up the surface but don't round off corners and use a backer to not dish out the wood

recutting the checkering is the icing. If you don't feel up to it pay a pro.

Good Luck with your project.


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