Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics 'P.O.I.T.' syndrome

Exactly. Probably too long of a screw in the front hole. Probably making contact with the barrel threads too. And boy, that finish sucks balls... Al's doing right by removing some of it and bedding those mounts. Not every rifle needs this treatment though.

Yep. Thread lockers accomplish this as well.

I usually treat the screws with break parts cleaner to get rid of the oil and then apply a thread locker. I've found this to be especially important when using aluminum bases/mounts. Otherwise, I've experience compression of the base material overtime and, as a result, loose screws. I usually apply a coat of the thread locker under the base to act as bedding and to help keep moisture out.

If the bases fit the action contour too poorly, I try another brand.

Front screw wasn't too long...no evidence of it touching the barrel threads. Base was secure to the receiver. The finish isn't as rough as the camera makes it appear to be. -Al

In the end was the problem the Talleys rocking on the receiver?

No! yer supposed to glob it with paint that hydrolocks the screw & gives false torque readings.

Or, WAY too much Loctite that does the same, plus hampers hardening qualities of the product.

Bedding failure ?

AJO syndrome ?


Asian junk optics.

Cheap azz Remington 700 action ?

Casey, these Talley LW's are what I'm putting on to replace the previous bases.

The root of the problem was the poor fit of the previous bases to the receiver, particularly at the front. When the rings were mounted, this compounded the issue as the front and rear rings then weren't the same height...which didn't give the rings much purchase on the scope tube. Honestly, I'm surprised the scope tube wasn't damaged. It didn't take the owner many rounds to figure out things were screwed up, so that likely prevented that.

So even though everything was seemingly tight, the whole system was stressed and didn't stay in the same spot from shot to shot. This caused the horrible on-target POI changes from a very accurate hunting gun.

Ring lapping comes next.

This is after 5 strokes with the lapping bar...just to see where we're at:



Another 10 strokes...almost there:



A few more and we're done. We've removed enough to allow for a good layer of bedding:



Good shootin' -Al

Ring bedding pre-clean up.

Good shootin' -Al

Do only Asian scopes require glass bedding ?

Let me look in my Chrystal ball....

After you glass bed the scope the accuracy problem is going to just mAgically disappear.


Ps......that is some goofy chit Al.

The Talley LW rings are narrow at the parting lines...which is the main reason they break. If this isn't addressed, the rings are under a lot of stress when tightened. Same goes for the bottoms. Talley has definitely made some changes in this area as the 4-5 sets I've gotten in the past year aren't as 'tight' at the parting lines as previous ones. Sometimes the tops need bedding too but on this set, a light lapping brought the parting lines around. After a light bit of file work to chamfer the edges, a little Prussian Blue confirmed that the tops were making excellent contact with the scope tube so further lapping and bedding wasn't required. Finished up the chamfering after this pic and put some Aluma Black on the inside ring tops.



Looks like a break in the weather coming for Tuesday so I'll get it to the range to confirm the work and reset the zero.



This gun (top) is the 'big brother' to my personal 250 Ackley (bottom).



Always something to do!

I like your gun room.

Neater than mine, for sure.

DF

Just like mAgic....

Thanks...appreciate it.

If I get too many things going at once, it can look like a S.W.A.T. team threw a flash-bang grenade in there and closed the door!

Good shootin'. -Al

I'm sure I'm not the only one looking forward to the report on how that rifle will now shoot.

very nice gun room for sure.

Thanks Al for taking the time to explain the issue! I appreciate it.

Al:

I give you credit for working hard to get the most out of the Talley LW design. Once you get them smoothed via the lapping process, have you experienced scope shifting?

I agree with your assessment of why some were prone to cracking. I received a few sets that were very egg shaped. Talley claims that this was a deliberate design feature, but I never liked the thought that tightening the rings around the scope was supposed to force them into round; always figured that's a lot of extra stress on the assemblage. I treated a few sets similar to what you do, but then found I was experiencing some scope shift in higher recoiling set ups. Finally had 2 ring caps crack, so moved onto different rigging. They do make for a nice looking set up though.

Starbuck: Once worked over, I've yet to have any scope shifting issues. As to recoil levels, the biggest stuff I have them on are a couple of 300 WSM's. a 300 WSM based wildcat and a 7 MM Dakota...the 7MM Dakota is a bit of a horse for recoil.

I agree with you on the 'egg shape'. Here's a good example of this on a set I did some time back. With a ground lapping bar in place, the tight parting lines are pretty obvious. This keeps the scope tube from being supported by the ring..it has to be forced down to the bottom of the 'ring' by the pressure being exerted on the scope tube from the wedging at the top.bottoms parting lines. This also pinches the scope tube and puts a lot of stress on both the top and bottom screw flanges. Just a matter of time before they go 'pop'.

Nothing you don't already know from having worked these over. But it may be instructive to others that are looking at doing this.



Same rings after being lapped and bedded. You can just see the bedding compound under the bases.



Thanks for the input, sir. -Al