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I was thinking Raised Planters boxs
The Black water is non existent.
I will run my Gray water over to a compost pile when I start one up and keep it wet. If I get to much Gray water on the Compost I will rethink my situation

Thanks for the lead on the book

^ ^ ^ What he said.

Might want to rethink that now, save yourself some trouble. Too much water is no good. There are a lot of good resources on that subject. Don't recall what climate he was in, but I believe Geoff Lawton actually composted a dead goat in one of his piles. He knows quite a bit about earthwork dams and ponds and such too.

funshooter, what's the diameter of your casing ?

Correct method.

http://www.weberwelldrilling.com/wells.htm

Have no idea why you want an 8 X 12 enclosure at the casing top.

Run your feed subsurface through a conduit to the house to protect your line

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Source...&hvtargid=pla-313308531966&psc=1

If it was mine i would hang the pump about 20ft off the bottom.

That would give you a good rathole if crap starts coming it the well.

With the solar pumps the problem might be the pumps are over taxed at that depth or there was something else that was not right in the system.

The idea of the water House was to make it easier to control how I route my water on the property. I would like 3 fingers going to different areas of the property and want to be able to turn each area off as needed.
So I need a type of Valve manifold system that I have in my head.
One finger going to my living Quarters , Kitchen Ext. , One going to the Garden and Orchard area and one going to the Critters that I raise.
Also Storage for all of my Plumbing supply's.
It Freezes up where I am and I need to protect the system from that.
I plan on Storing water in Tanks rather than having a Well Pump turn on and off when we are using the water.
The actual Well PVC Pipe is 4 1/2 inch Pipe That is what was printed on the side of the Pipe.
They welded a Steel cap over it before I thought to measure the actual diameter of the PVC so I do not have that dimension right now.

The Freeze depth as I was told is 12 inches yet everyone up there has had their pipes Freeze and Burst creating a huge mess for all of them.
I plan on going a Minimum of 2 ft. with my Piping. and the ground is Fractured rock with clay mixed into it. It is like digging threw Concrete unless you soak it for a day or two before you dig.

The Water House will be more than just for the Water Pipes.
I am not afraid of work I have worked hard my entire life and it just seams to me to be a hassle to dig threw the Concrete containment that the Driller put around the Steel upper liner , Drill or Cut a hole into the Steel pipe. ( I am a Steel Worker and have all of the equipment to do the job) and then cut a hole into the PVC Well and try and line up my pump Feed line with the Pit-less Adapter and try and keep all of that crap dropping down the well into the water that I plan to drink.
If I just come out of the top of the Well Head with Water Pipe & Wires Then I have to figure out a way to keep them from Freezing and keep the Critters from chewing them up. Hence the Water House to cover everything up making it accessible to work on and organize my supplies

build the water house away from the well, if you are dead set on having one. but don't listen to the pro's.....

I was thinking that
now I have to think about Digging a 3 ft deep hole in Concrete next to the Well to put the Pit-less adapter in below the Freeze Level and dig the trench over to where I will set up the Water House.
I really hate working under my feet these days. It really kick my butt.
I have a lot of Equipment to help me out but Digging that so called dirt is real tough.
My friend up there is a dirt guy and has done some work for me several times with a very large Backhoe and his Backhoe has a hard time with my area it takes him 5 times longer to do a job than in other areas with better ground.
I have better ground on my property just not where the Well is located.
It took me 6 hours to dig out 2 holes 12 in diameter and 16 in deep with a 35 lbs Makita Jack Hammer for my Chain Gate Posts

It would be a lot easier to just build the building over the Well Head and disassemble the Entire Building if I had to to get to the Well than to dig in the dirt.
I am still going to have to dig in it for all of the underground Piping but that is just trenching I do not have to work down inside of.

Float valves at each terminus ?

I would have quit at 300.

Our well is 220'. It's very much like Stuv suggested. It has 1.5" stainless in the hole and 1.5" poly buried from the well to the house. The pressure tank (actually 2 short ones side by side) are in the crawlspace. It's been running great for over 25 years now.

About the tanks in the crawlspace - there was no suitable place in the house for one. I thought I'd need a well house for it but the well driller said that he'd set up many of them like this. As long as the crawlspace never freezes, it's out of way yet still easy to get at. 2 short tanks piped together are every bit as good as 1 tall one.

I do not know how to make a Float Valve work for that application
I was thinking Ball Valves
Well Pump to Water Tank , Water Tank to Manifold (3) Ball Valves (that I have to protect from Freezing) Water is directed to the area of my property that I want it to go and I can turn each finger off for servicing the particular line without turning everything off. all from a central hub. Thought about Color coding each finger as well so that anyone other than me could figure out where each line went on the property.

Wha?


Iowa Hydrant.

This is good advice. I've seen wells under decks, in the corner of the garage, around the back next to cliff, innaccesible places. My own well was down an embankment where I was sure the truck rig couldn't get to it, but they did somehow. I worked with a well guy in the sixties and pulled out shallow pumps by hand using 2 pipe wrenches. Not fun when ice forms on the pipe!

6 GPM seems to be the norm around here with a 300 ft well. Why would anyone want to set a pump with 50 feet of water below it. 10-20 feet is more common

I put my Well in a Wide Turn Around portion of road I cut threw the trees on my property with no plans of ever building in that general area.

I will take the advice and not build my water house over the well head. I will build it about 20 ft away from it.
I am pretty thick headed at times and still want my water house.
My 300 sq ft Bedroom is about 500 ft away from the well the future kitchen is 15 ft from the bedroom. I am not planing on ever Building a true large home. I can build up to 300 sq. ft buildings with no permits and no code enforcement harassment. I can plainly tell them to measure my structures and get off my property.
The future garden area is 500 ft+ from the well head and my critter corrals will be about the same. All in different directions from the well head.

The well head is pretty much in the center of my property so it is a great location to branch out from.
I did not realize how center it was until I got the location map from the Drill Company.

Your driller should have a pumping depth for you. The surrounding static will hold a certain level in the case while pumping. Get below that.

Well houses are a PITA for plumbers, drillers and homeowners. Pitless on your well case and frost hydrants or curb stops for runs that you might want to shut off. Keep it simple and use a modern, proven design.

5 or 6 years ago we were considering an older house. It needed a new well so this wasn't an issue but they'd added on to the house and the well was under the living room floor.

I am my own Plumber at the present time.
The Water House will have a Treated Wood foundation and a dirt floor with possible stepping stones for the floor.
It will be a combination of water House/Storage.
I have already ordered (3) Hydrants with a (2) ft bury depth for the run to my Bedroom and I will more than likely add others
When I dig the run down to the Critter Corrals I will have at minimum of (3) Hydrants on that run and the Garden area (2) or more depending on how big I get the Garden area.
I will be feeding the system with storage tanks not directly from the well.
So I can fill my tanks during the day as needed and use the water around the clock.
I do not know for a fact but having a pump turn on & off constantly in my opinion is harder on it than turning it on and letting it run for extended periods of time. Again that is just my thoughts and no facts to back that up.

You have it mostly right. We have months of -20*F so well houses are troublesome. If the heat fails for more than a few hours it is a huge deal. We bury at 8'+ and I still occasionally have to repair broken water lines for customers in the winter.
Dig deep under those hydrants and add rock for storage. I normally cover the rock with drainfield fabric before backfill. You are probably aware but they drain every time the handle is cycled. If they don't drain they can freeze. I usually install a ball valve on the hydrant outlet if it's one that will be cycled frequently so the ground doesn't become over saturated.
Good luck!