Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Stuck choke…any advice?

I pulled out a shotgun that was my Dad’s. It hasn’t been fired in a couple decades and the choke is seized. I’m pretty good at getting threads unstuck but I’ve never attempted it on anything that has a finished surface. Will a propane torch damage bluing? If so, any other ideas?

Start letting some Kroil seep into the space between the barrel and outside of the choke tube is where I would start.

this and if won't come loose use a heat gun or hair dryer

Definitely on the kroil. That’s a no brainer. I’m taking the barrel into work tomorrow to make a tool. Full disclosure, I found the bag of chokes but the wrench wasn’t in it so I was using a dime. Proper tool might be all it takes. Of course, letting kroil do it’s thing takes a lot less effort.

Heat gun is a good idea. Not sure why I didn’t think of that. I get too stuck in the groove using a flame to unstick valve parts I guess.

I've done few of these, the Kroil/solvent soak is helped by reversing a wad in the choke tube just below the muzzle end a filling the cup. Stand the barrel in a can and let it brew over night. A little heat the next day will usually get it out. Dump the liquid and remove the wad before lightly heating the barrel with the torch...

That's what I'd do and heat it with a heat gun, not a torch.

The only time that I've used a torch was to soften the thread locker that Remington used to glue their barrels to their actions.

Kroil soaks and afterwards lots of taps with a wooden handle, etc. Take your time and try to be patient.

Soaked in kroil all day. Nothing. Hit it with heat and broke loose. It’s amazing how well heat works.

Interesting finding…the choke had a longitudinal crack along the entire length.

heat will do it every time

Don't doubt what the Kroil in there helped, especially after you added the heat to help it a bit.

We’re you shooting steel?

I wonder what would happen if you soaked one, then shot it.
Maybe over a few days.
A jar will often loosen things.

My question also... And what was the choke? Anything tighter than modified is never recommended..

What kind of shotgun is it and what kind of wrench do you need? What have you been using to try and get it out?

Can you remove the barrel? If so, snap some pictures of the choke tube end and send me a PM. If it has tube wrench slots, I will give you my address and you can ship it to me. I will try to remove it, I have been very successful at it with no damage to the barrel. I have a 100 Straight choke tube remover kit, I haven't found a tube yet that it would not remove, provided the owner or someone else hasn't boogered up the slots.

You pay shipping, I remove it for free and send it back to you with tracking. When you get it back, you can see the return shipping cost, you can reimburse me if you want.

The


Did you all read the dam thread?
We have moved on. He got it out, and found it spilt.

"Did you all read the dam thread, We have moved on He got it out, and found it split" quote DB

Thanks, I been thinking that all day. geeebuss H C

Yes I read the damn thread. But obviously I missed the part where he got it out. Thanks for the notification.
My question about what gun and which choke tube wrench needed would have been nice in the original post.
Using the correct wrench should have been the first answer.

I just realized that you all so answered his post after he said he already got it out. So apparently you didn’t read the damn post either.

I didn't.
It was posed as a question, if someone thought it was a good idea.

That said,
there have been times I've posted,
read a bit more, and then deleted the post.
Because I hadn't read the whole damn thread!

You and me both.

Just had a near-miss with a choke myself. Browning A5 w/Brileys. I used an anti-sieze with metal in it instead of the blue goo I use on my ML plugs. Hadn’t checked it in a while, then when I went to pull it it was really tight. Got it out and the unthreaded part was covered in liquified rust-looking stuff. It’s never been wet, and there was nothing in the barrel so it had to be the goop. I carefully cleaned everything up and re-lubed with some Briley lube I recently bought, then carefully threw the metallic stuff away. The Briley lube appears to be identical to the Knight anti-sieze, a thick, dark blue goo, really sticky.