Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles First timer, what to buy?

Hello hello,

I have decided I would like to start reloading, and would like some opinions on the gear/equipment I should get.
I prefer to use factory ammo, but I just bought a 280 ackley and would like to have more options with it, and use the bullets I want to use.

So having said that, the .280ai is the only cartridge I plan on loading for. This will be my first foray into reloading, and I have absolutely zero experience with it.

What do you guys reccomend for getting started with all of the equipment I will need? The only thing I have decided is I would like it all to be fairly simple, small single stage press, easy to use scale, etc.
Should I start off with a press kit to get most of it in one package? Which one is a good one to get? Where should I go for dies?
Also what else is not included in the kit that I will need to purchase?
What is a good or a couple good reloading manuals to have on hand?
I would like to keep the price point in the lower to middle of the road options.

Currently the only thing i have is a solid work bench. Other than that I am empty handed.
Jack

Lee Kit & Dies.

RCBS press....used or new.

I like Forster dies (if you can't afford them I would go with RCBS or Hornady)....used or new.

You'll need a good scale an RCBS is hard to beat....used or new.

Powder trickler....used or new.

Pick up a used Wilson case trimmer on here or ebay....best there is and they last forever.

Don't go cheap on a dial caliper (you could make do with a cheap one) but I'd suggest buying a used Starrett or Brown and Sharpe in their case....look on ebay.\ used.

Later comes the Stoney point tool and bullet comparators to measure with.

Remember cheap tools tend to follow you around for a long time.

The above ^^^ and look at the Lee 280 Rem 3 piece die set (seater, full length sizer, and factory crimp die) add to this a Lee collet neck die and a Redding body die. Then later on look at a Forester bullet seating die as the Lee seater die will produce < 0.001" runout pretty much most of the time.

The 280 Rem set is used to form brass from other cases such as 30-06, 270, and 280.

For the 280 ai I use 30-06 cases , they come out a bit short but that has not been detrimental to function or accuracy, just ensure carbon is removed when cleaning the barrel.

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Kit.

About says it all^^^^

Jack,

Adding to what others have suggested while thinking trim & simple.

If you go with Lee Dies, you’ll also get a shell holder for your press. Lee also has a simple priming tool - ram prime - isn’t bad & uses your shell holder.

If you prefer digital scale, Frankfort Arsenal has a $20 model that works pretty good - faster than a balance beam & much more compact.

A cheap funnel is very handy

A loading block to hold your cases

Maybe a primer flipper if you don’t go with a hand priming tool.

Good luck on supplies - it’s a challenging time as I’m sure you’re aware.

Probably going to take some grief but. If I was going to start over I would start with a Forster COAX press. They're in stock at Brownells right now. Buy once and cry once.

Do I have to have it to make good ammo? NO but they have reputation for making great ammo and their design is really solid.

They don't make 280AI so I would get a Redding Competition neck sizing die set appropriate bushing/s trimmer Wilson appropriate bushing/s, powder measure you pick just get a good one, priming tool RCBS model 90200, universal decapping die. Components what I could find.

Loading for multiple calibers probably a Redding T7

Good luck and shoot straight ya'll

I hate to see Frankfort Arsenal tools even mentioned I'm a pretty good judge of quality and everything I've saw with that name looks cheap...their press looks to be a cheap made Chinese knock off of a Forster Coax.

Lee loading dies....I been watching Lee dies and tools since their inception....I'm not saying you can't load precision ammo with them I'm just saying I'm not going to.

When I saw they used an O ring under their die lock rings I just looked the other way.

I recently bought a Lee depriming die works okay I replaced the die lock with the O ring with a Hornady.

Lee hand primers are junk only a matter of when it will break not if it will break....compared to an RCBS hand primer the Lee is junk.

Recently a buddy asked me if I could make him some reloads for a rifle he has....my reply was I don't lake reloads I make precision ammo tailored to a specific gun.

There is a difference....

The OP mentioned keeping costs down, so the Forster is irrelevant. I've been using an inexpensive Lyman Brass Smith Ideal press for a while now. It's a cast iron, open face C shape press. I've full length sized a large number of 308 and 30-06 sized cases with no problems whatsoever. It has also served to assemble very straight cartridges. According to the OP he won't be full length resizing machine gun fired 7.62x51 cases to fit a tight 308 Palma chamber, nor will he be swaging belts onto 25-06 cases for loading a 240 Weatherby. No need for something like a Redding Ultramag either.

Lyman made quality products for sure just not very common.

Here's an RCBS press about as cheap as you'll see them priced.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-Rock-...m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Thanks everyone, this thread is really a big help to me, opens my eyes as well as will let me focus on the important things.
I am definitely cost oriented as math man said, but I also hate cheaply made products.
Thanks Lfc and others for the good comments again, I am taking all of this down on paper so I can purchade what I need as the opportunity comes.

For emphasis I'll repeat that the basic Lyman press I mentioned is cast iron, not pot metal or aluminum as are other low cost options.

Note: I am well aware of some very high quality presses made from aluminum, but those are a different animal than what's being discussed here.

That's exactly where I'd start.^^^ Also, I have to say this: Guys suggesting all the comparators and chidt need to learn how to find the lands without all the costly gadgets. Most load manuals will teach you this. Soot the bullet or use a sharpie, no need for extra expense. You can also use your rifles chamber to set your dies with. These same guys are probably the ones that say they don't save any money reloading their own ammo... They may not at the rate they are going. Expensive as hell die sets, when they would have been just fine with RCBS you can buy at Walmart. The list goes on.......The op is looking to keep costs down, but getting misinformation regarding some extra non needed expenses.

…” I would like to keep the price point in the lower to middle of the road options.”

As the OP states - hence my responses.

Cheers!

Two tools you won’t catch me ever giving up.

RCBS Hand priming took
RCBS Chargemaster Lite

The chargemaster is expensive, but measuring out powder is one of my least favorite things to do!

Also, I’d check out Lee’s hand trimming tool. For one cartridge, it’s pretty solid. I’m looking for a better way to do bulk trimming. Trimming is another painful step for me.

Hot damn man, you just set the narrative on here back 50 years. Old school stuff right there. Works too.

Good post.

I think it’s funny when a guy worries about how another guy spends his money.

Many would think a bunch of overlapping guns to shoot holes in paper is a waste of money.

My vote too

I started with a Rock Chucker kit 26 years ago and have never found a reason to regret it. As I got deeper into reloading for more cartridges I have added things like Lee Collet dies and Forster seating dies. But no regrets for the way I started.

I was in the same situation as you 15 years ago, but with the 35 Whelen and 358 Winchester. Factory ammo was hard to find and expensive for those at the time. A friend with long experience reloading suggested the Forster Co-Ax single stage press. I bought it and have never looked back. I'm now reloading two dozen cartridges, mostly with RCBS dies but some Redding and Hornady too, and have nothing bad to say about any of it. Be advised that it can become an addiction once you get going.

A friend just bought a rifle chambered for this cartridge and I'm trying to help him with components. In looking for dies I found these. Take note that Lee states these are for the original .280 Ackley Imp.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....ey-improved-limited-production-3-die-set

The RCBS dies state they size to SAAMI specs.

https://www.rcbs.com/dies-and-shell...als/rcbs-280-ackley-improved-nosler.html

Redding has a tech bulletin clarifying how their dies are cut and labeled.

https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/133-280-changes

Great post!

Two tools that are essential. Chronograph, concentricity gauge.

http://www.competitionelectronics.com/shooting-products/chronographs/ The ProChronoLTD is good.

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...clair-concentricity-gauge-prod37479.aspx

Sinclare gauge is great, other options are available.

I agree with the RCBS kit also.

Rockchucker kit for me as well.

It has all one needs to make some good ammo.

I figured the guy wanted to load precision ammo for his hunting rifle....not to make cheaper reloaded ammo to save a dollar or two.

I suspect I was sooting bullets before you were chitting yellow......

I listed it in my post as a tool that comes later....there are several other techniques for finding the bullet barrel rifling land relationship....just none as precise and fast as with a Stoney Point tool.

Ps...
Never saw RCBS dies at any Walmart I've been in.

LMAO, never say never. Never thought I would see reloading equipment, Barrett 50 cal rifles and 50 cal ammo at a Walmart either, but I sure did in Idaho. Although the rifle was in the back, too damn big for the display case.

Walmart's out west have (had) reloading supplies. The ones back on this side of the country don't usually carry anything that I know of

There are a number of good recommendations listed above . RCBS, Redding, MEC, Forrester ,Lyman , Hornaday , and Lee all make quality presses. Most if not all sell kits as mentioned above . I would recommend you buy an Iron or steel press rather than Aluminum press because an iron press will out live you . I got my RCBS Jr in 1980 and still use it every week. I grew up buying RCBS because that is what was available locally and every thing I got that has RCBS on it has been good quality . I have been loading since 1975 ( used granddad's RCBS A-2 to start with) and I currently have 4 reloading presses: RCBS Jr , RCBS Rock Chucker, Redding T-7 Turret, and a Redding "The Boss" ( which is their smallest press).

My goto on equipment is RCBS and Redding . My goto on dies is RCBS and Lee.

Lee makes a number of inexpensive tools that work well for a minimum investment . Their " Perfect Powder Measure " works as well as any and is 25% the price of others and their case trimming tools are an inexpensive place to start if your not sure what case trimmer your interested in ( note these are caliber specific)

Just my thoughts

The first thing, a manual lyman, speer, hornady . Read it and then shop.

This is a good start.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1023389781?pid=345426

Started on this, a Lee Classic turret press is heavy duty and can be used as single stage if you like. The turret disks make things so convenient and neck sizing has meant I never buy more brass. I have bought some other dies and like them well enough but by and large....don't see why one would spend more. Especially now that components are so expensive. Lee has great 30 second videos on setting things up so you don'at have to scour Youtube and watch a 20 minute video of some guy explaining what his uncle uses.

Rockchucker kit

I also started with the RCBS kit, it's a good place to start.
The press is about the only thing I still use out of the kit.
I did load and use most everything in the kit for the first few years.

Thing about the kits....i think it's fair to say that most items in the Kits with the exception of the loading press are budget items.

The scale is just okay....you'll likely upgrade it.

No case trimmer in the kits ?

Not crazy about RCBS powder measures.

Most expense is the loading press and a high quality scale.

A fellow can get by without a powder measure/dropper I know I did for several years...you can pick up a used Lyman 55 for about $50 bucks.

I feel like you can get in with better quality tools for about the same money as a kit.

Midsouthshootersupply.com has Lee 280 AI 3 die set in stock for $37

I was at a cross road yesterday about buying another rifle chambered in 223. A sweet little Kimber of Oregon rifle was begging me to buy it. I have four already - did I really need another one ~ does it really even matter?

I held firm and didn’t do the deed. Instead I dropped almost as much coin on reloading supplies.

For a brief moment, I felt like a grown up.

Lol

🦫

Handloading tools are just like other tools.

If Harbor Freight trips your trigger then why waste money buying Snap On.

As usual in threads the first answer is usually correct. Other guys gave good advice that probably went right over your head at your level of knowledge, Get a Lee Kit, a set of dies and pick a loading manual to read about the basics. If you can find a mentor, even better. There are also good videos to watch. You may only load for this rifle or likely get bit by the bug and expand as it is a whole hobby until itself and you can then decide where to upgrade your equipment, People here will also help out. Firing your first loaded round is always a hoot.

Here's the Lee Kit. I started here and have upgraded some stuff, my least favorite item is the scale but it is serviceable https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690050/breech-lock-challenger-kit-(50th-anniversary-kit)

Oh, I highly recommend a chronograph like a Pro Chrono before any other upgrades. "Book velocities" in the manuals, and even factory loads, are often just wrong in the real world. Without a chrono, you are just guessing and should not go above mid range loads. Measuring velocity will let you know when you are getting near maximum for your loads.

I would recommend starting with an affordable kit, but make sure it contains a cast iron press. They are much stronger and a better value than the aluminum versions, IME/IMO.

You can just about guess the age group of the posters on this thread by their responses. The OP said he wanted in on the low end price wise, now three pages into it, and the beginner needs a goddam chronograph, electronic scales, top end press...and on and on. Jeezus, the guy is loading for a 280AI, what kind of volume do you think he will need to crank out? If the poor guy had asked about a commute to work car you urban whippersnappers would be recommending a SSC Tuaterra, when a used Celica would have done just fine.

Well at least we didn't tell him to start with a Dillon.

Being grown up is over rated.

People are funny, what’s a waste of money to one, is a value to another.

The reason I think a kit would be good, even if each component is not the greatest, is if I want to upgrade I will have something to base that off of. This way I will be missing the least amount of equipment with kit purchase.

Having said that, between the rock chucker kit, hornady locknload kit, and the lee breechlock kit, is there any significant reason to choose one over the others? Ideally i would buy most of what i need used, but that does not some as feasible now with the way things are.

Most expensive looks like the rcbs rock chucker kit. I think I'd like a digital scale at some point, just easier for me.

Also the chronograph is not a bad recommendation at all, I have been wanting to get one anyway just to see where I am actually at with my factory ammo.

Dude, the Celica has a speedometer. If you are handloading, and approaching book max loads, your are flying blind especially with a wildcat like a 280AI.

The Lee is functional, but if you do have the coin, get the RCBS. It is better gear and likely not needing any upgrades. Oh, get a chrony

You Bastird !

Now I have to go back and look at the rifle....My only question is WWSLMD 😂🦫

https://www.gunsinternational.com/g...super-varminter-223.cfm?gun_id=101814571

I agree, except I have a manual trickler and an electric one. I have not used either since the ‘80’s. I like RCBS because their warranty is better than anything else I’ve seen.

Yeah they do it's called rubber dog sh*t from China. What do you guys call it?

SLM, After some soul searching, I found this rifle and bought it today. Same type of rifle as first picture, but possibly never fired. Wood is a smidge less purty, but it was also a little less money. #Win

https://www.gunsinternational.com/g...super-varminter-223.cfm?gun_id=101833462

That's a nice one.

Harbor Freight scope or Snap-on?

Guess I’m a bit late to save you from yourself.

It was either buy the rifle or give Tiny the money to get himself some new dresses and thongs.

🦫🥴

Wish you would have chose the later, I’m getting tired of the same pics.

Can you send him some cash for razors though?

Before thinking about brand, I would make a list of items and sequence them into stages.

A kit is a pretty good way to get started, but you can pick up used items as well. I bet if you posted a want to buy add you would be surprised at the folks on here that have extra presses, dies, etc, they would unload for a decent price to someone just getting started.

Bar bones:
A press, preferably with the ability to prime cases so you don't have to buy a separate priming tool
Case lube
FL sizing die, bullet seating die, shell holder
powder scale
a utensil to get powder into scale pan from container
powder funnel
calipers to measure overall length and brass length
reloading data (with the hornady app you can purchase one cambering for $1, and even read the how to reload section); nosler has free 280ai data via website

Continued progress:
a way to clean your brass, tumbler, etc
a way to trim your cases, 280ai will take five or more firings before trimming is needed
powder measure to speed up the weighing process
tools to measure fired headspace
tools to measure bullet touching lands

A few notes on the 280ai:
-I have two and love them; brass and dies are expensive; reloading data is less common than many of the mainstream chamberings
-Lee's dies are for a "different" 280ai, not the commercial version; look at other brands
-brass options are limited to Nosler, Peterson, and Hornady
-PM me if you need guidance on which powders have worked well for me
-I would not spend money on "premium bullets" at first; standard cup and core bullets are half price, which means you will handload and shoot more
-a 160 grain sierra game king at 2,900fps has fantastic terminal performance
-don't get obsessed with high BC bullets - they can be finicky and over complicate things when you are just getting started

You're going to scare the feller off.

I’m fairly new my self and I haven’t read all of the reply’s above..
But I really like Hornady bullet comparator to measure to ogive vs to the tip of the bullet (coal). Which is much easier for me. they also have one for head space. Sinclair has an insert to measure the depth of your chamber so you don’t have to trim your cases unnecessarily.
Hornadys case prep made the biggest impact for me in deburing and cleaning out primer pockets. I will say mine fell apart after couple years, ordered a new one from Amazon and returned the old one before the dead line to return . Read the reviews your self. I will agree with starting off, go with the cheaper cup and core to learn on. But sierras and Speer’s have been solid for me!
There is also shooter pro shop which is Nosler store and they have overhang and 2nds for sale
I really like ramshot powder. .
You can get their info on line or order hard copy for couple bucks. https://ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf

Some links
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...ength-gage-sku749000772-32925-64785.aspx

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101273351?pid=231904
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012743827?pid=479704

The very first thing you should buy is a good manual and READ it. I suggest a Hornady manual. The first section of the manual explains everything that happens from the time the firing pin strikes the primer until the projectile leaves the barrel. It really helps to understand what pressure signs mean and what to look for.