Running into an issue at work refurbishing some old equipment, a number of set screws seized solid. Drilling them out seems the only option, but your average drill bit last about .5 seconds and the better ones might get through one or two before giving up. Any off the shelf drill bits out there that might be up to the task? A good cobalt bit maybe, if a guy can find one that is a decent % cobalt? Seen these Dewalt multi material bits with carbide tips, look like masonry bits but apparently supposed to be suitable for all kinds of materials, anyone use them? Hoping to buy individual bits as opposed to a whole set, boss man ain't big on spending $$..
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
xxclaro; Good evening to you sir, I hope that other than the stuck set screws you're all well.
Are you able to get at the set screws with a Dremel?
When I was doing millwrighting on woodworking machines, on occasion I'd just break out the Dremel and the Canadian Tire grinding stones - the pink and grey ones - and just burn through one after another until it was gone.
Honestly I've seen on videos folks reworking masonry bits, but that's never worked for me thus far.
It can't hurt to try that either I suppose though as all masonry bits are likely not created equally.
Hopefully that was useful sir. Good luck whichever way you go and all the best.
maybe. Or carbide bits. You might look Into getting an electro-static discharge (EDM) machine in. That's what Mag-Na- Port uses to "cut" their ports in a barrel's muzzle. I understand it will eat out a screw without damaging the female base threads.
No idea where you could get one... but it might be worthwhile for a number of screws.... "cheap" ain't always cheap...
Oxy/acetylene until it’s pretty hot then take a cheap unscented stick candle and press it to the set screw. Liquid wax will chase the threads and lube them….just a thought
If you work 40 hrs/wk: at 5% inflation and after 5 years, you need a 28% pay raise or to work 44 more hours (*one full extra week* per month+) to make up the difference.
It may help to give it a hard hit with a punch to help break it loose, before trying the drill . Might try a left-handed bit, sized large enough the hex socket (if that kind) doesn't grab the bit.
Oxy/acetylene until it’s pretty hot then take a cheap unscented stick candle and press it to the set screw. Liquid wax will chase the threads and lube them….just a thought
Interesting. The “Project Farm” fella on YouTube has shown the wax trick to not actually work.
Same utube channel that was posted above.
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
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Set screws are hardened. A carbide drill will take them, BUT must be rigid. Carbide doesn't like slow grabs and doesn't flex.
How big are the set screws? Can they be heated?
Originally Posted by BrentD
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
^^high country is right. I would recommend a carbide stub drill... lest you have to grind them out with a diamond bit. The heat idea above may also prove useful, hard to know without a picture.
The biggest mistake most people make when trying to drill on hardened steel is using too fast of rpm's with too little pressure. Try to apply as much pressure as possible and keep the rpm's slow and use cutting oil. Carbide bits are an option too.
Set screws are hardened. A carbide drill will take them, BUT must be rigid. Carbide doesn't like slow grabs and doesn't flex.
How big are the set screws? Can they be heated?
3/8-16 set screws....they are about a half inch down inside the hole. Should hopefully have acetylene torch in the next week or two, was hoping to knock out a few before then. I did one set with a cordless drill and a decent set of drill bits, definitely not ideal but wanted it done today. Will see if I can get the next one on the drill press so I can get proper speed and pressure. Unfortunately they are at the end of a rather long and heavy cylindrical shaft so its a bit awkward.
Set screws are hardened. A carbide drill will take them, BUT must be rigid. Carbide doesn't like slow grabs and doesn't flex.
How big are the set screws? Can they be heated?
3/8-16 set screws....they are about a half inch down inside the hole. Should hopefully have acetylene torch in the next week or two, was hoping to knock out a few before then. I did one set with a cordless drill and a decent set of drill bits, definitely not ideal but wanted it done today. Will see if I can get the next one on the drill press so I can get proper speed and pressure. Unfortunately they are at the end of a rather long and heavy cylindrical shaft so its a bit awkward.
For a ⅜-16 hole use a 5/16 LEFT HANDED TWIST COBALT DRILL BIT after shooting a bunch of Kroil into the holes. The drill bit will be piloted by the existing hole, if the bit grabs while drilling it migh loosen the set screw instead of making it tighter.
Yup. High noon's thread is a good one. Speed kills when drilling hard stuff. The best bit is a sharp one and often the old 40's and 50's era bits were made of better stuff all the way through as opposed to an electroplated skin coat..
-OMotS
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Set screws are hardened. A carbide drill will take them, BUT must be rigid. Carbide doesn't like slow grabs and doesn't flex.
How big are the set screws? Can they be heated?
3/8-16 set screws....they are about a half inch down inside the hole. Should hopefully have acetylene torch in the next week or two, was hoping to knock out a few before then. I did one set with a cordless drill and a decent set of drill bits, definitely not ideal but wanted it done today. Will see if I can get the next one on the drill press so I can get proper speed and pressure. Unfortunately they are at the end of a rather long and heavy cylindrical shaft so its a bit awkward.
For a ⅜-16 hole use a 5/16 LEFT HANDED TWIST COBALT DRILL BIT after shooting a bunch of Kroil into the holes. The drill bit will be piloted by the existing hole, if the bit grabs while drilling it migh loosen the set screw instead of making it tighter.
Good point on the Kroil... great stuff... diesel/kero as an alternative in a pinch. If it all go to pot in the process you can oversize and retap the next size up maybe?
When steel or a set screw get excessively hot from a dull drill bit... a Dremel stone can knock off the temper (quite thin, but very hard)... then a fresh bit and some more trying. Maybe...?
Having fought some of this stuff before... my typical is to start with a small split tip bit and TRY for a full hole... next size bit... then the next and so on. Yes... I have wrecked a lot of bit this way, but at $10 a set a Harbor Freight... sometimes it's worth it.
Easy Outs work sometimes, but not always.
Good luck.
My mechanic had a trick with a mig welder... but 1/2" in a hole... probably not able to add a bolt. Besides it is tricky... I tried it and it didn't work for me... he has far more skill.
If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.
