Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Polishing and tuning a striker fired pistol

Their will be design variants but the general concept is similar among the manufactuers.
This will be a ongoing pic intensive thread for the next couple of hours.
( pics or criticism not kryptonite to me)
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1st start with a striker fired pistol that has a 5.25 to 6 pd trigger from factory dry
And around 4.5 to 5.25 pd one lubed
Said pistol has a gritty feel on take up to wall.
Breaks cleanly at wall and has a good tactile reset.
Should be able to get pistol down to 4 to 4.25 based on past experience and maintain all factory geometry and get rid of grit in take up.

This is a common problem in striker fired pistols.
Manufacturers dont take the time to remove machining or milling imperfections in part by hand and the cost would add to the pricing of them across the industry.

Pitchers
Cool!
Is it magic how you do this?

Gather all you need beforehand so you aint looking for schit in tthe middle of work.
Common sense.
Dont work haphazard looking for schit between stages....
Put aside your stuff use what is needed in your current stage.
And reverse and clean as you go.

In

A hammer? I like your style..

Apex trigger and mine is GTG

tag for later

In this pic their is alot going on to be seen and inspected
The test to see where the grit is.
Sqeeze trigger back and forth.
No grit.

Firing pin safety plunger is your issue.
Push it up and down
Gritty inconsistent resitance...
Obnoxious schitt.
But manufacturers taking care of it by hand would add alot of cost


Lower
Trigger bar has good cleareance between it and the frame.
No polishing needed no trigger dissembly needed.
Glocks are infamous for tight fit in this area and careful polishing of the trigger bar needs to be done ( no fine sanding) you dont wanta penetrate the tennifer finish on later model glock trigger bars or their shark fin.

Not installing any spring kit.
Not needed for this job to improve this trigger feel or its pd weight.
Lower will be taped up for further work with fine sand paper and polishing only of the sharks fin which depresses the firing pin safety plunger to allow the pistol to be fired and trigger reset.

Contact and drag surfaces is what you are adressing.

Safety plunger
Designs are different
This one is round and flat.
Others are sloped up and down like on gen 5 glocks.

Their are visible maching rings on this plunger and drag marks from the sharks fin across it from me dry firing it since Thursday.
Inside the plunger recess I'm sure their are burrs from the milling which will be addressed also.
Also the tiny little last cut tit in the middle from where it fell off the bar stock in the latheing of it.


Next step will be taping of lower and removal of rear sight to take out plunger.
Other brands if pistols dont require this.
Just take off back plate of slide, remove striker assem and rod keeping safety plunger and extractor in.




Also in this pic you can see really uneven surface imperfections in the firing pin contact area with the sear.
Most def needs to be addressed and maintain factory geometry.

Actual sear in lower looks primo and 0 needs to be done to that .
Thing is shining like a star in the pic.

Will be a overall easy job.
0 trigger mechanism dissembly required on this pistol.
👍👍👍

Midsouth has em
And the seperate apex spring kits.
Mcarbo also has spring kits

Saving my money brother for more ammo👍👍👍🙂🙂🕺🕺👍👍
Only spring Im gonna mod is the firing pin safety plunger spring

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Completety wrap up your lower or put it far away from your worksite when you start polishing.
Flitz
Jb
Mothers.

Believe me from experience.
You dont want that schit on your pistol and clean all that schit off one the wool pads start sling polishing compound everywhere at 10k rpm.
Eye pro is a most def too👍👍👍

Dont be me 10 or 11 yrs ago when I learned my dumbazz lessons


Only thing to do to this pistol is adress the forward and back slope of the sharks fin.
The very top of it where it has been riding across the safety plunger flat looks good.
You can see imperfections on the slopes where it begins it rearward move to fire and its forward move to reset depressing and allowing the safety plunger to free the striker/pin to fire or not fire by mechanically blocking it.
That is a small fraction of the grit.
90 of the grit involves the safety plunger and the milled channel it is in.



Next set of pics will be awhile.
Remove striker assembly.

Drive out rear sight and remove plunger assembly.
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😄😄😄
Plenty of online tutorial vids to check out.
Excellent in depth how to vids from alot of reputable peopke and aftermarket manufacturers.
How I started picking up on stuff like this.
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Or did you just mean how to post a pic???
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Elkfeces gunsmithing abilities...........

Yup

All common sense stuff here guys.
Soak in oil best as you can at least 1 day prior.
Drive out left to right.
Back in right to left.
Remove lock set screw if present.
Tape up you work 3 to 4 layers.
Use a non marring punch or a sight pusher.
Shift your tape every 2 or 3 strikes it will wear thru.

If it dont move 1st 2 or 3 good strikes dont go full blown retard.
Get a heat gun .
Build a aluminum foil heat sump around the sight.
Heat it to finger ouch touch.
Drive it out
Repeat if needed.
Dont get frustrated .
Heat is your friend

Homie dont dig open flame on firearm finishes

I'm off to the range to shoot mine.
I'll come back to this later at gun cleaning time and see what I need to do, if anything.

Yeah.

I think he was sniping the “I’ve been a gunsmith for 27 yrs… no pics crowd”

😂😂😂😂

Some tedious azz nerve wracking schit driving any rear sight out for me.😬😬😬😬
Always has been...
7 or 8 strikes with 3 tape reshifts to get it out and not mar the finish on a new gun.👍👍👍👍👍🕺🕺🕺🤣🤣🤣

Glocks and other models dont have to do this to get to the safety plunger.

Before I put this back together the bottom of that rear sight dove tail is gonna get sanded and fitted so it can slide across that dovetail about 2/3rds of the way with real strong thumb pressure.
Then tap it in even and clean the yellow lock tight off the set screw.
Snug it up very little after it bottoms out.

Zero and drift as needed when I get to the range.
I can use a nice sight pusher at the range that they have.
Then lock down the dry set screw with red 271 neatly and not all visible like the factory did with this yellow stuff.

I aint never even seen yellow locktite???🤷‍♂️

Next is micron sanding with 1000 thru 2000 grit little tiny imperfections your can feel with your finger nail easily
The plunger.
The fire pin sear interface without altering any geometry
And then run some qtips down thru the milled safety plunger channel checking for burr where they grab cotton.
Address those burrs if any carefully with a round or half moon jewlers file and roll up 1k to 2 k sand paper and up and down and spin around in that safety plunger hole.

Dremel wheel off the bottom of that safety plunger spring 2 coils above the compressed ones.



After all that is done

Then wool wheel dremel polishing.
Then blow out parts and areas with remoil, clean, blow out with rem oil again, lube, reassemble, check out on trigger gauge.

Pulled a chunk of metal out of the safety plunger channel and have strands of cotton getting snagged inside it .
No file work thankfully nothing glaringly sticking out i can see with a flashlight.

Just roll up sand paper and smooth it all out .
Repeat q tip check as needed..

Get the slide down 1st and put it aside...

You can get the idea.
Spin around up and down.
Check with flashlight you can see rough areas from milling getting hit.
And progress up to 2k grit.
Do q tip testing for left behind fibers.

Its a feel thing.
And your talking microns smoothing out at the most doing this.
Basically getting rid of surface imperfections.

Flashlight shows shiney areas that are getting hit.

Hard to describe or show pics of.

Why not buy a nice hammer-fired, instead?