Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Preferred scope mounting for Tikka T1x

What do you guys prefer to use on a Tikka T1x for mounting a 30mm scope? I am looking to mount an Athlon Helos BTR 2-12x42mm scope.

I have seen several options but none of them stick out as "best" to me. I don't have the rifle yet so it is a little hard for me to get an idea of what would be the best mounting solution. I wanted to go ahead a get the scope mounts while I am waiting for the rifle to arrive. Don't figure anything will go down in price anytime soon.

Thanks!

For what cartridge?

.22 LR 20" bbl.

Talley makes lightweights if you want one piece easy button. Otherwise find a rail and pick your poison with rings, options out there for each.

I used Talley lite weights on my 17HMR.

I chose the Burris Signature dovetail rings, they have the synthetic inserts which keep from marring scope finishes and also will allow the use of different size off-set inserts so that elevation can be set to different degrees if you choose to do long range.

drover

CrowHunterTN;
Good morning from north of the medicine line sir, I see you're a new member so welcome here.

While I didn't install a 30mm scope, it's not a small one either - a Bushnell 4-14 I think it is?? It's got an illuminated reticle which I've yet to use, but I bought it because of the adjustable objective and the price was right.



For rings I used whatever low dollar aluminum ones I had in the "misc. rings" drawers in the parts bin in my shop and not once, but twice the scope slipped forward on me..

Then I removed it, cleaned the top of the receiver and rings with alcohol and used 5 minute epoxy to see how that would work. So far, maybe 200 rounds later so not more than a couple range days, it appears to have done the trick.

If I wanted to fool with the mounting or switch scopes much though, I'd suggest installing a Pic rail - I'd glue it down since it's easy to remove - 275° with a heat gun - and go from there.

Hopefully that was useful to you or someone out there and good luck with the project whichever way you decide.

Dwayne

PS.
I know of two other T1X's up here and they seem to shoot pretty well.

This is one range day testing 10 shot groups at only 25yds - but they are 10 shots again so not terrible.

Nice shootin! I am looking forward to shooting mine when it comes in.

Do they direct mount to the dovetail?

Yes, they come with two sets of clamps - one for 3/8th inch (standard American 22 size) and 11mm which is what the T1X uses. I went with the medium set and they give good clearance using a 40mm scope with AO. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1548430969?pid=547603

Like BC30cal I tried a set of inexpensive 3/8" rimfire/airgun rings that I had and had the same scope slippage issue - with the Burris and the 11mm clamps there has been no movement whatever.

Another option is to put Weaver style bases on the rifle or a rail as suggested. I am pretty sure that there are rails available that mount to the the receiver with screws rather than gluing them on. The issue that I have with Weaver style mounts or a rail is that they set the scope high enough that it can be difficult to get a good consistent cheek weld. And then there is also the issue of having one more link in the system to possibly give an issue.



drover

I would prefer direct mount for just the reasons you mentioned, I have thought about going with a canted rail, but I don't know that I would be shooting far enough to need the extra adjustment range. I will be using it primarily for shooting varmints and tree rats at fairly close range with target shooting being a secondary interest and most of that being 100 yards in. The farthest my personal range goes is 400 yards and that is only after it is bushogged. which only happens twice a year.

The LAST fhuqking thing you want to do,is fhuqk around and clamp the "rail" direct,whether T1/3/CTR. For your application,do thusly. Hint.



I'd go Swiffer Low's. Hint.




None of these Fhuqktards shoot. Hint.

You've been led to water.

Thank me later.

Hint................

Thanks Stick!

I actually bought the Athlon, in part, based on your observations of them. Why do you prefer the pic rail over just mounting it to the receiver? Ring spacing or something else?

What are Swiffer rings?

Does the Athlon have enough travel to shoot/zero at 20 yards in with a 30 MOA base? (Alot of my T1x shooting will be fairly close a tree rats.)

Sorry for all the questions. My experience up to this point has always been Leupold scopes and Leupold rings, or optics going on top of AR rifles.

ANY rings that mount without a cross slot engagement,are GONNA move and are Dog Schit JUNK. A 1913 interface,lets everything play together and ring spacing is a scope's BEST friend. WORST case is,you get to trim the rail perfectly and that is great news. Hint.

The cited 2-12's have 36 Mil's of erector travel and will happily digest 65 MOA of inclination,upon a concentric rifle and grant a 10yd zero,should you want it(you want a 50yd zero). Their 10yd parallax is exceptional and you'll schit,once you taste your first fhuqking scope that actually WORKS correctly,beings you are coming from Reupold. This is gonna enlighten you,like no other. Hint.

Some Swiffer Low's. Hint.



Hopefully you didn't fhuqk up and went mil,so Base 10 is applicable from any all angles. You will soon fhuqking HATE Everything else. Hint..................(grin)

Awesome! Thanks. Now I know what the Swiffers are.

I went Mil, I "think" in base 10, not fractions so it was a simple choice for me, even at work where we use 1/8ths and 1/16ths and such. I have to convert them to real numbers first.

I already have the scopes and I got the Butler Creek's you recommended on the way. I had planned on a 50 yd zero for the T1x.

Just playing with the scopes around the house, not mounted yet, I much prefer the FFP. I appreciate you posting about them originally (that is what pushed me over the edge ;)) and thanks for the mounting recommendations!

Going Mil Scale,ALLOWS Base 10 to be incorporated,for all things. The erector is obviously in 1/10 Mil "clicks" and the eteched reticle can easily be broken down to same. With wind factored in 10MPH full value,it can easily be broken down on a similar scale. That way your reticle because your Wind Finder and the learning curve greatly accelerated. Hint.

I run DOPE in 10yd increments for like reason and to the mechanical limits of the platform. You'll likely reap 28 Mil's of erector from a 50yd zero,with "flat" rings on said rail. With another intuitive 10 Mil's on the rector,that sets you at a proposed 38 Mil mechanical correction ability. Hint.

With an arbitrary selection of Eley Club ammo,38 Mil's arranges the following,which is right at 600yds of potential. Hint.




Said scopes were an INSTANT Fan Favorite here,for killing. Hint.






I think you are onto sumptin'. Hint............(grin)

I completely agree. I have 4 of them myself right now.

Thank you very much for all your help!!

I have a rail that came off a Tikka 22-250. Someone is welcome to it if they pay the 10 bucks to ship it.

I used Sportsmatch rings to mount a SWFA 3-9 on my T1X. Someday will likely swap it out for a 6X, if just for the AO. That said, I"ve been happy with the scope and rings.

I used a canted rail from Area 419 on mine. Very nice rail, but it is longer than the receiver and I ended up cutting mine down. I use a SWFA ultralight for carrying and swap to a SWFA 10X for playing at longer ranges