Home Forums Gear Horses and ATV's Which would be easier to get a good horse or mule?

I was wondering. I am not sure which would be, since horses are very much more popular than mules.

Just depends if you want to be kiled by accident or on purpose. Since there are more horses, odds are that they would be easier to find. On the other hand , the odds are just as good you are going to find a bad one too. All in all if you are pretty green about equines, you are not going to get along with a mule.The trouble with most folks is that they still have the mentality that mules are inferior to horses and therefore should cost less, when in fact a good mule will cost more. They are just too cheap to pay the money, and end up bad mouthing them because they wouldn't fork over an extra $1000. Course the folks that ride the high dollar horses $10 K + and such wouldn't dream of taking them into the country that I ride.

But it ends up the same game, you only get what you pay for.

Most of the people who have a bad time with mules end up not being as smart as the mule.

In almost 30 yrs, I have never met a person that started riding good mules that ever went back to riding a horse.

Good ones aren't hard to find if you want to pay the money for them

Better question might be how do you pick a good horse or mule once you've made up yer mind about which one you want. I know how to pick pup's for bird hunting, how do you tell a good hoss, or mule from a bad one.

Spot

Dear Spotshooter,

Here is my two cents on how to pick up a good one. There are many experienced posters here who will surely be able to add to what I say or offer their own, different perspectives.

(1) Get a horse/mule that is big enough to carry you. That may sound obvious, but there are lots of folks with "weedy" horses that won't stand hard work. Check the circumference of the cannon bones. On a horse I want 8.5" or, preferably, more.

(2) Don't get a crazy, spooky, or headstrong one.

(3) You can't tell if they're crazy, spooky, or headstrong (unless they are very obviously so) on your test ride at somebody's stable, ring, or ranch. You can't really tell if they're suitable for what you want to use them to do. So, you need to work a purchase agreement where you get to take the prospective charger home for a couple of days "on trial." Many sellers will balk at that. I then say, "Goodbye!" I have had good luck offering a postdated cheque for the agreed amount, with the proviso that I can try the horse at home for three days - or whatever - and return it if it doesn't suit. If I hurt it, I've bought it. All in writing, and be considerate of the seller. Also, you might not believe that human nature would stoop so low, but some vendors of horse flesh have actually administered - dare I say it? - calming drugs to their animals prior to a buyer's arrival for the test ride. You want some time at home with your prospective purchase for anything that such gentry might have administered to wear off.

(4) Get a good vet exam - every time. The purchase price of the horse is not the main expense. Maintaining the horse month after month is. Make sure, as best you can, that you are not buying hidden problems. It's better to know about navicular (or whatever) before you (or your children) have given your heart(s) to the animal.

(5) Recruit an experienced friend/guru to go with you, give his/her assessment of the animal, watch how the horse goes with you, and restrain your first rush of enthusiasm (if any).

(6) No foot; no horse.

(7) Ask around for leads on reliable horse dealers. The good ones want to stay in business. They are not out for the "quick buck." They depend on positive word-of-mouth. Some of them will tell you that a horse is not right for you. If they tell you that, when they could make money by keeping quiet, believe them. That's the kind of dealer with whom you want a relationship.

(8) Know your own mind before you go. What do you really want the horse or mule to do? Thunderbolt might be a terribly good-looking Thoroughbred with terrific gaits, but would he be a good hunting horse, or pack animal, or family saddle horse? Conversely, Graf Zeppelin, the Suffolk Punch, will probably not be a good first-flight fox-hunter.

(9) How are the barn manners? Even if you ride a lot, you will deal more with the horse around home, and, every time you ride, you have to groom, saddle, load, etc. I don't want the battle of Agincourt every time I have to worm the horse or give a shot. I want the horse/mule to pick up its foot when asked and keep it up until I am finished. I don't like being stepped on, especially not on fingers!!!

(10) Don't discount the older horse, especially the trained, healthy, older horse. "Making" a young horse is very satisfying, but it takes time and much effort. Have you got the skills & time, and can you put up with the "bumps in the road" that go with a young horse? A horse that doesn't know anything is a young horse, even if it's 15. If it's 15, do you really want to start on elementary school with it?

(11) Does the horse seem to like you? You might think that's nutty, and it is hard to tell in a day or so, but it is really important. Some horses go very well for everyone (or for no one), but others will go well for riders/owners with whom they get along - only!

(12) If you sense that the horse is mean or a rogue, walk away. Beware the little "piggy" eye. You want a large generous eye. Beware "for an experienced rider only."

(13) A calm horse/mule is virtually essential for every use. For some uses, you also need a brave horse. If the horse gets on edge easily, so will you, and that will send him/her further down the Nutzo Trail.

(14) Ask if the horse is "dominant" or not. You may get a helpful answer; you may not. The pecking order of horses is a powerful thing. If I can get a brave, forward horse who is non-dominant, he/she will usually pay a bit better attention to what I ask. The Great Mogul of the Pasture is accustomed to doing it his way. Conversely, don't ask a retiring violet of a horse to be the lead animal in a pack train. Some will differ from me here on the dominance business. Always remember that you will have to establish yourself as Herd Emperor. Whatever horse you ride partakes of your prestige, but that only works to a point.

(15) Horses are color-prejudiced. The grey/white horse was a problem for the herd when it was being stalked by the sabre-toothed tiger thousands of years ago, and they haven't forgotten! There are many, many greys/whites in the non-dominant category. Where might your horse "fit it" in your barn or herd or string? Remember also that, from a distance, the paint or App represents horse camo. You don't want a highly visible hunting horse in many applications. Guys that get lost a lot should pick big white Lippizaner types.

(16) See if the horse/mule will "move on." It is tedious to spend hours beating/spurring/tricking the Reluctant Warrior out of advancing at a pace suitable for the Duke of Wellington's funeral. Watch out for the Jekyll/Hyde type where you have to check, outbound, to see if it's still breathing and then, homeward bound, it becomes Rocket Reynard.

(17) Does your possibility "play well with others?" Some horse/mules are fine with people, but are really hard on their fellow quadrupeds. That gets old in the barn or when involved in any joint ventures.

(18) Pray about your decision.

Good luck!

Redcoat

Redcoat pretty much covered it. One thing I would add is beware of the skinny, poor condition mount and sellars that say he just needs fattened up. They have usually had poor feed, poor worming schedules and can become a completely differnt unmanageable mount once they are wormed and weigt added to them.
One of the best deals you can usually find is from a family that bought thier daughter a horse when she became a teen. The daiughter initillay spends a lot of time with the horse, then she discovers boys, and then goes off to college. The parents are left to feed the critter. They usually end up selling it cheap, along with all the tack, groming supplies, left over hay etc.
I would have to devote 2 pages on how to select a good mule.

Redcoat pretty much covered it. The only thing I have run into is a bad hock joint being blocked by drugs that did not show up for about five weeks of riding. The horse came with a 30 day warranty and was looking good until it statred gimping around at 5/6 weeks. It took a couple of years to find this horse that fit my needs (63 yr old beginner). It also cost quite a few hundred dollars to find out what was wrong.

Dear Spotshooter,

You are getting helpful advice. (Even if some of it is mine!)

Thank you, Saddlesore and PHXRS. Your insights and points are on target.

Here are a few other suggestions that occurred to me today.

(1) Will the new mule/horse "load?" By which I mean, will he or she get on the trailer without a scene like the last act of a Wagner opera? When you have had your new prospect at home for a few days, try loading him/her and see how it goes. The reluctant loader can be a royal pain in the saddle area. Some of them can NEVER overcome their fear of that enclosed space or of the motoring experience. You can shake the grain bucket until the Day of Judgement; they are NOT getting on! Of course, if he/she is a true loading basket case, you will never have gotten him/her home to begin with! Remember, however, that your new buddy may have been ACEd or whatever for your state visit. Loading once is a good sign. Make sure it was not a fluke.

(2) Is the horse/mule an "easy keeper?" There are some horses/mules that you can stuff with grain, hay, supplements, carrots, etc. and, still, they just cannot keep their weight. A big problem. Yet, this is hard to detect. A horse/mule in a new place will often be so wound up trying to fit in at the new location and wondering what's going on that he/she will pace off weight. A horse in good flesh, particularly in early spring, just before shifting over from hay to grass, is a better bet. As Saddlesore points out, the seller may tell you that Artaxerxes just needs to put on a little weight, but, if that's true, why didn't you help him put it on, Mr./Ms. Seller?

(3) Has the horse/mule got any "vices?" Is he/she a cribber, or a windsucker, or a weaver? If "yes," then realize that all these charming traits will be taught to the other equines at your hacienda. Is the horse/mule an "escape artist," who is clever enough to open stall doors - his or her own and, in advanced cases, everybody else's as well? That is funny the first time, but not the second or the seven hundred twelfth. While wandering around the aisle, such explorers can usually find some good way to injure themselves or eat enough stored food to colic. Is your prospect a kicker or a biter? A red ribbon in the tail just to get down to the ring is definitely a bad sign! The family of vices and eccentricities is vast. Does, for example, the horse, when stalled, poop in its own waterbucket every time? You have to decide what vices you can tolerate in an otherwise good horse/mule.

(4) Is the horse "herd bound?" (They all are to a degree, but there are degrees and then there are DEGREES!!!) If you want a horse that will do things independently, try to check for this. During the trial, ride in company and see if your charge makes a vigorous attempt to attach his nose genetically to the tail of the horse in front. This is tedious, and, if the horse in front doesn't like it (none of them do, and some are prepared to resent it vigorously), your knee is the single most likely spot for the ensuing kick to land. Can the horse ride out alone without being reduced to crawling along and spooking? If you are riding in company and all the other horses are doing something dumb, can you make your charge pay attention to you? The horse is a herd animal, and their base line is to believe the other seven horses rather than you. Will the horse listen to you? (It gets a little better - just a little - if you are repeatedly proven right.) Desperate neighing to the other horses when separated from them is not a good sign.

(5) Ask if the horse has stayed sound for a long period of time. Ask the seller to sign his/her agreement to that - and to other important questions you ask. A seller doesn't have to volunteer negative information about his/her animal, but, if you ask and they lie, they have committed fraud. Get it in writing. If they tell you the horse has hunted first flight with the High Falutin' Hounds for three seasons, ask them to put it in writing.

(6) Check for old bowed tendons, cuts, scrapes, strange spots with different coat color, etc. Though this is hard to find out, try to determine if the candidate is accident prone (some of them are) or if they come down with everything that goes around. I had a horse that, in just two months, (1) had a wildcat jump on his back and claw him down to the bone, (2) come down with pneumonia, (3) colic, and (4) lose a shoe every day he was taken out. Some horses are unlucky, and sometimes you can tell - because they look like they have gone through trench warfare! You may be seeing an animal on one of its three "sound" days in a year!

(7) Be sure that the vet check includes careful examination of vision. A horse with one eye much worse than the other will usually not jump straight and also has some depth perception issues.

(8) Will the horse/mule take care of you? This is hard to tell quickly, but a really key point. In our area, there are a lot of groundhog holes. Just have your horse, at a gallop, put a leg down in one of those. Whatever happens next is bad. I had one old horse that had a sixth sense for that kind of thing. He would do a stutter step like a halfback for Notre Dame in the days of yore through holes invisible to me (until I was passing them!). He would also get underneath me when I came out of the saddle on a bad jump. You want a horse that will take care of himself (because if he stands up that is good for you) and, even better, will try to look out for you.

(9) If you need a horse with speed, find out before you buy. It is hard to tell if a horse is fast or slow when you are riding alone. They may seem fine, but actually be desperately slow. Take the horse out in company so that there is a chance for comparison.

(10) Understand that there are no perfect mules/horses, that the ones that are close cost a bundle, and that most all of us have to accept some things that we would prefer not to have had to accept. What can you live with? Also, remember that some people who have a way with horses can cross any country in style on some of the most dreadful screws ever foaled. Most of us do not have that knack, and, so, we have to choose warily. I have several times much regretted buying a given horse, but I have never really regretted not buying a given horse.

Best of luck to you in your search!

Redcoat

Redcoat, I like reading your post. You must have some of teh queens blood in you.

As for loading. A lot of bad ones can be fixed by parking the trailer in the paddok and feeding out of it. They won't starve to death and sooner or later they will sneak in. Bigger trailers help also.

Easy/hard keepers. 1/2 the time those hard keeprs can be fixed with a good worming schedule and proper dental care. Mule sgenerall eat about 2/3 of what ahors eof comparable size do. Due to thier more efficient digestive system

Herd Bound. Mules get worse than horses and particulary will attach themselvs to a mare horse. The worse thing to do to a mule is to let it run free in the pasture with a bunch of horses. The next worse is to let it run with other mules. This can be overcome by having it bonded to you more than the other equines. This has to be done in the weanling/yearling stage.

Mules will take care of you better than a horse, assuming they develope some affinity for you. It boils down to that mules have a greater self preservation instinct than horses. So they take care of themselves better. You are just along for the ride.

So will a good horse/mule breeder not sure what you call them other than a breeder will have a list of people that are wanting horses/mules from him/her? And can you keep a horse in a pen by itself or does it need other horses?

Your bets bet is to buy from aprivate individual. Therea remore dishonest horsetraders than honest ones. Yes you can keep ahorse/mule by itself, but sooner or later , if you get into packing you will want another one, an another, another an another. It's viciuos cycle.