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Just sent my hand gun(Ruger GP 100) back east for a trigger job.( Stiffest trigger I ever felt) Gunsmith said while its here in view of expensive shipping cost, why not have a package deal done? So I said yes. A few of the things will be to Chamfer throats in cylinders,Eliminate end shake,and polish all the pins and plungers..So what our these things that are going to be improved on? What is end shake?

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Maybe have him take the text book off the barrel.


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What the heck you talking about?

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End shake is the for and aft movement of the cylinder.

GP100s are pretty easy to work on. I got a new one last year and it had the usual feeling of sand in the gears. I just took mine apart and stoned lightly contact surfaces and smoothed things internally. I then put it back together with slightly lighter springs. Springs are available from Brownell's. Makes a big difference. That is probably what your gunsmith will do.

After you get it back, you may find that the bore is a little rough. I like to smooth mine by firing jacketed bullets. Only a few, up to a dozen at a time, then take it home and clean and remove the metal fouling. I have recently found KG12. It is a solvent that does the best job of removing copper fouling that I have found so far.

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Oh dang maybe I could've saved a bunch of cash. How long did it take to do the work? So how smooth does the action work? Is it half as good as a Colt Python? This gun smith is going to re crown the BBL polish trigger,Bead blast,Chamfer chambers slightly,end shake,polish plungers and pins.Why don't they put beetter springs in it at the factory?

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Ironworker, if you will PM me with an e-mail address I can send you an adobe PDF that explains how to do a trigger job and other GP100 improvements. I was written by a smith that goes by the handle Iowegan on another forum. He has asked that I only share it in it's original format.


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Originally Posted by Ironworker
What the heck you talking about?


Those Rugers have quite a lot printed on the barrel. They look really nice with out all the print.


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Dry firing smoothed out my GP100.

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Originally Posted by Oregon45
Dry firing smoothed out my GP100.


Lightly stoning the lumpy surfaces just accellerates the same mating process as dry firing. The internal smoothing usually only takes an hour or so, depending on how far you want to go.

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I have a GP100 that has the sweetest trigger pull...love it.

Scott


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If it's a hunting gun try a Wolfe spring kit and dry fire the crap out of it. If it is a defense gun, dry fire the crap out of it. My 6 inch SS GP trigger pull would rival the best S&W pull.

The great thing about the Ruger is you can shoot the heck out of it with the stiffest stuff out there with no issues.

TM

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IW -

I'd becareful with installing any aftermarket spring kits. I bought an aftermarket kit and put it in my GP100 about 20 years ago. I was qualifying when the aftermarket hammer spring broke. I reinstalled the factory springs and did the slow trigger job. I shot it about a million times both with ammo and dryfiring.

The trigger got smooth but creep was terrible. I just got used to dealing with adversity. smile

I always got "possibles" with the GP during qualifications and even a few "Top Gun" awards at the county match. Most competitors were carrying S&W M66's and couldn't believe that a Ruger could be a Smith. I told them it was the operators not the irons.


Norm -
NRA Member Since 1966

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