Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Help getting started

Starting out....

RCBS Rock Chucker Press

Lee or RCBS Dies

Lee Decapping Die

Lyman Tumbler and dry media

RCBS Chargemaster Powder Dispenser

Caliper

Bullet Tray MTM or other to hold cases

RCBS universal Hand Primer

Lee lock stud and cutter to trim brass

Chamfer

Reloading Manual

Mine also....I'd put Frankfort Arsenal handloading equipment at the very bottom of the barrel.

Good list, but IF he decides to go RCBS for a press instead of the Forster or MEC, wouldn't the Rebel be a better way to go instead of the Rock Chucker?

You asked.. As it relates to reloading bottle neck cases to be fired in bolt action type rifles:

After more than 40 years of handloading - I'll suggest those items that I got very early on, and still use to this day. The Rockchucker press will only be a bad choice if you wish to change to a progressive press, and the kit will fill out those simple items that you'll need to start, even if some of them don't endure into the future.

As others have stated, the reloading manuals have so much more in then than recipes for the different cartridges. Buy a few, and read the sections they have on how to reload.

Other items I'd suggest: Something to clean cases, a vibratory polisher is something I've always used. Even when I started washing brass, I still use the vibratory tumbler to polisher to this day. If you want to load clean brass, start with something.

I started out with a Stoney point OAL gauge, now owned by Hornady, and use it to this day for every cartridge I reload.

A chronograph can be had for under $100, and while I've changed tools to a different velocity gauge, a chronograph is a reasonably priced tool to start with. For me, knowing velocity on hand loaded cartridges is a safety step and worth the $100 investment.

Then, much more optional - but a hand priming tool fits what I described. I started with one, and while I now have several different hand priming tools, it's an improvement over priming on-the-press that is worth it from day 1.

A work area, bench, etc. Even if it's a micro-small work station for reloading, consider where you'll set these things up and make it convenient if you have some time to just go to your work area, with the basics setup, and organized, and you'll have the number 1 reason why people start reloading, but don't stick with it defeated. Plan a space that will be reserved for reloading activity. If you need to build a bench to mount the press, build it. Make the tools accessible, so the process is accessible.

Shooting "stuff". If you're going to reload, you're going to shoot more, so consider if there are some things you'd really like to have for those trips to the range, be aware those trips to the range are going to become more frequent.

My other suggestion, you don't need to load 100,200, or 300 rounds once you've identified the recipe. If you stick with the reloading hobby, you'll likely evolve, and want to try some different things for the same gun you first reloaded. Load 20, or 40. If you use them up, you can pull out your recipte and load another 20. I reloaded my 7 mag back when I was a teenager, and once the recipe was identified, I loaded 100 rounds. Granted I have several rifles now, and some years I don't pull my 7 mag out - but I've still got 50 of those 100 left to shoot, 4 decades later. If I was itching to try a different bullet, or try any change in components, may as well not have an ammo supply already loaded that will last decades into the future, which is what 100 rounds will be for a hunting rifle.

I’ve been loading for 44 years, started when I was 12… I have 3 presses on my bench, an RCBS rockchucker, a Forster Co-ax and a Dillon 550. If I could only have one, it would be the Forster. With it’s universal shell holder and priming attachment, it will load most cartridges as it is from the factory. For odd stuff you need to buy another shell holder but I believe that one would handle everything else. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong here. Dies can be inserted and removed very quickly. Priming attachment will also fit (just about) any cartridge base and the only downside is you have to hand feed one primer at a time. But, they are seated perfectly every time. Leverage is superb as are the fit, finish and spent primer catching. There is nothing I dislike about the Forster.

I still use the RCBS though. When I’m loading a few test loads for my 44 magnum I use the RCBS so I don’t have to change “stuff” on the Dillon or changeover things on the Forster. I also use it with a Lyman Ram Prime die, again so I don’t have switch the Forster over. It’s also my bullet sizing station and works perfect with Lee bullet sizing dies. Yeah, I cast, for all my pistols and for many of my rifles but that’s an entirely different part of the reloading bug…

My Dillon I can setup to load all my pistol cartridges and also 223 (I added a carbide expander so I don’t have to lube the inside of the neck on these) All other pistol dies have carbide sizers so no lube on any of them. I load 45 acp too and I could set it up for rifles with the same base but I never have because I don’t load enough at a time to warrant that. That and I have the other two single stage presses and will use them both sometimes for different operations.

I have two beam scales and I never worry about them being accurate. They always are and if I do measure something wrong it’s completely my fault.

I also have two powder throwers and a set of the Lee measuring cups that work well for small batches. Everything get’s thrown light and then I use a manual powder trickler to make them perfect. The Dillon has a powder thrower and those charges are not weighed and trickled. I trust the Dillon and I’m not worried about precision accuracy with those loads, it’s all about quantity and speed.

I have 2 or 3 manual trimmers and hate that process. This is one place I should spend some money and upgrade…

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned is a good solid bench. I built my own, I’m very proud of and I’ve never seen anything that quite measures up to it. It’s 30 inches deep, about 84 inches long and 2 3/4” thick sugar (hard) maple. It’s glued up pieces so it won’t warp or move. And it doesn’t, this thing is SOLID! I like watching reloading videos on Youtube and my biggest pet peeve is seeing a weak bench top (usually plywood) that flexes a lot with every pull of the handle. Makes me cringe… I even offered to build one for one of the channels if he lived closer and could come to my shop. But, he’s 2000 miles away and the shipping kind of kills that deal… Anyways, get a good bench top. If you can’t, put a 3/8” steel plate under the press and anchor that well to the bench top. I did that before I built my current one and the press was as solid as what I have now. My bench top sits on a custom “table” with 20 drawers with 3/4” extension slides. I spend a lot of time reloading and I enjoy the space I have.

Bullet manuals are great when you’re sticking to one bullet manufacturer. I started out with Sierra but have 6 different ones right now. The Internet changed this need a lot of course as you can find pretty much anything you want there. I still refer to my manuals though and like my Lyman(s) because they aren’t specific to one bullet manufacturer and it’s easier for to compare things.

A bullet puller is handy (I use mine a lot playing with different bullets and loads) so is a stuck case remover, which I’ve never had to use but it’s comforting having it.

I don’t save money by reloading but I sure do shoot a lot more for the same money! I’ll shoot thousands of rounds with my rifles I shoot cast in this year. it’s a great hobby if you like “building” stuff and then you get see if it really works!

Lots of great advise from the guys here, kits or by the piece, get what you want and can afford. Components are another story…

^ ^ ^ ^ THIS ^ ^ ^ ^
I guess that makes 2 of us
Trying to load with a flimsy flexy bench is
only slightly better than trying to use the
press in your lap
A good piece of plate underneath and
some good bolts make a difference even
with a proper thick bench top

There's already been a lot of good information here so I will just get into some specifics off of the top of my head. First, pretty much any press will do. To those who've been reloading for years, some of this is basic; but, a new reloader might not know. Different brands of dies will work in other brands of presses. The same applies to shell holders. Just note that the shell holder numbers aren't universal. That's no problem, just make a little chart on a notecard of what number for what brand goes for what cartridges.

Additionally, although press mounted priming sounds great in theory, to me, it's a pain and not as effective or even as fast, in my opinion, as a hand priming tool. Since you said you are a buy once, cry once guy, I would highly suggest the Frankford Arsenal Hand Priming Tool (https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/perfect-seat-hand-primer/110006.html). I also highly recommend that you get a stuck case remover right away. If you stick one, you are done until you remove it. I would also recommend a universal decapping die. It is very handy, inexpensive, fast and effective.

Get a reloading bench. Any old workbench will work and setting up and tearing down your equipment will work. However, a designated area is more convenient, more organized and, frankly, safer. You can build your own or buy one. My most recent purchase after a move was one from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-...n-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html). You probably can't buy the raw materials today for the price of that thing.

There are a lot of good resources on the internet. I always recommend that if you find something on a forum, verify it elsewhere also. Just because someone with an aggressive personality publicly asserts that his way has worked forever, he sees no need to do anything different and anybody who does it differently is a stupid mf'er, doesn't mean he's right. It may not mean he's wrong, but it doesn't mean he's right.

Youtube really is your friend and there are a lot of good simplified demonstrations of all of the tools and equipment needed on youtube posts. You will learn to weed through them quickly. Some will be the "pa says we don't need no book learnin'" types and some will be professionally done. You will quickly find ones you like, of either of those types, which get down to brass tacks and in two to ten minutes show you the ins and outs of a particular tool, process or device without yucking it up in between for an additional 1/2 hour or so of what they think is entertaining filler. Good luck and enjoy and, most importantly, be safe.