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Which do you all find to be the best at returning the scope to proper zero?
I'm not going to consider the European "Claw Mount" system. Thanks
as always!
Last edited by BigFiveJack; 03/30/22.
Jack
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I've had good luck with the Talleys on a couple different rifles.
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Joined: Apr 2020
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I have the warne qd rings on 2 of my rifles…i tested the return to zero by taking the scope off one of the rifles and rolling it across the ground, and then tossing it back and forth with someone a few times….i put it back on the rifle and shot a 3 shot group and it was dead on right where i left it
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Have Warne QD on Steyr with a Leupold 6x36 and spare backup 4x scope with OD rings set up.
Have tested 6x off, 4x on a few times - both maintained zero over extended time.
Warne rings lock up securely too.
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Thank you very much for your shared info!
Jack
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I have used a few different ones. The Suhl claw mounts are hard to beat for quick on, quick off and return to zero, but you've dismissed them out of hand. They are admittedly a bit dear, and you need someone who knows what they are doing to fit them up, but I'm very happy with mine.
Of the more common options I would recommend the original Weaver bases and rings. They aren't fancy, but they are exceptionally light, reliable, and return well to zero if you always push the rings hard forward in the slots as you tighten them.
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
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High end scope mounts like Badger Ordance, Nightforce or Geissele scope mounts will all return to zero fairly well
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Campfire Tracker
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I've got Warne for my CZ550 Magnums and they are very good. Like dan said, push them forward to the stops before tightening them.
Whatever you said...everyone knows you are a lying jerk. That's a bold assertion. Point out where you think I lied. Well?
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I've just put the Warnes on my Tikka few months back, and love em. Yes, apply just decent down-forward pressure while slightly snugging each, then tighten. ZERO!
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I bought Warne QDs to put on my first Brno 22F almost 20 years ago. I was curious about how well they would return to zero so did a lot of shooting, removing, replacing, and shooting. Return to zero was excellent. There was one 10 shot group fired with the scope removed and replaced between each shot...resulting in a nice group!
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Of the more common options I would recommend the original Weaver bases and rings. They aren't fancy, but they are exceptionally light, reliable, and return well to zero if you always push the rings hard forward in the slots as you tighten them. This has been my experience as well. If you don't mind more weight, then a Picatinny 1913 rail is the military version of the Weaver system. I use them on my two favorite rifles with SWFA rings and Nightforce scopes. Okie John
If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I prefer the Warne Maxima QDs and Leupold QRWs, as they are rugged and have more robust levers than Leupold QRs.
After I had the levers snap off a set of Leupold QRs when a rifle equipped with them fell over onto the carpeted floor of my gun room I no longer use or recommend them. It might never happen again, but if it happened once it could happen again and that one experience caused me to lose confidence in them for use on rifles that would actually go afield. They are nicer looking, but aesthetics take a backseat to function in the field.
The old G&H and Jaeger side-mounts are rugged too, but they don't do anything that the Warnes and Leupold QRWs won't do equally well and do it for a lot less $$ and a few extra, non-factory, holes d&t on your receiver.
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I have used the leupold QR mounts a LOT, on Mausers, Win 70s, and Remingtons. I have been most impressed. On my 35 Whelen when I first built it back in the early 90's, and put on the "then new" Leupold two piece Mauser QR bases, I tested it by shooting a group with the 250 Hornady SP where I removed and replaced the scope between every shot. Five rounds in an inch.
Later, I cobbled together a "traveling rifle", a W70 Fwt in 6.5x55, Winchester OEM laminate stock, glass bedded, One Piece QR base. I had both a primary and backup scope - primary a LEU Vx-II 2-7, backup a Burris 4x Mini.
I'd saved my zero check targets from multiple trips and one day I overlaid a bunch of them and drew a composite, and 19 shots, taken over three airline trips, (where I removed the barreled action for travel, then reassembled at the hunt location), scope swaps between the prime and backup, and all 19 went inside 1.7" with most inside 1.5". And this rifle doesn't shoot much better than 1.5" anyway.
So I would say the Leupold QR are very repeatable.
I have recently learned the potential value of scope base and ring bedding and am going to give that a try a on a current .256 Newton build that wears these bases and rings.
Best of luck,
Rex
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I have a set of Leupold, but they are heavy. I've never had a problem getting Weaver rings or Ruger rings to work. The key is to slide the ring as far forward as possible in the slot before tightening when mounting the scope initially. And after it is removed do the same when re-mounting it. If there was ever any POI change, I couldn't detect it.
Most people don't really want the truth.
They just want constant reassurance that what they believe is the truth.
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Only rifle I have with QD rings is my DGR. It has Talleys.
I am continually astounded at how quickly people make up their minds on little evidence or none at all.
Jack O'Connor
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EAW’s are nice. But they mount the scope a little higher than I like. They are also expensive. Hasbeen
hasbeen
(Better a has been than a never was!)
NRA Patron member
Try to live your life where the preacher doesn't have to lie at your funeral
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As mentioned, all the above will work fine. The key is to make sure to place the scope fully fwd and tighten to the same spot each time.
I use Talleys, Warnes, and good old Weavers. Never had an issue.
"Aim right, squeeze light"
" Might as well hit what you're aiming at, it kicks the same whether you miss or not"
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Only two rifles with QD scopes are big bore doubles.
The Talleys on my .405 DR work great and always return to zero. Ha used them in the field a few times and all OK.
Talleys would not fit on my Beretta .458 DR, so gunmaker installed a QD set made in Alaska and the regulation targets are great. I have yet to pick up the rifle due to a variety of issues from weather to family activities, but hope to get to shoot it soon.
CRS, NRA Benefactor Life Member, Whittington Center, TSRA, DWWC, DRSS Android Reloading Ballistics App at http://www.xplat.net/
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I have used the leupold QR mounts a LOT, on Mausers, Win 70s, and Remingtons. I have been most impressed. On my 35 Whelen when I first built it back in the early 90's, and put on the "then new" Leupold two piece Mauser QR bases, I tested it by shooting a group with the 250 Hornady SP where I removed and replaced the scope between every shot. Five rounds in an inch.
Later, I cobbled together a "traveling rifle", a W70 Fwt in 6.5x55, Winchester OEM laminate stock, glass bedded, One Piece QR base. I had both a primary and backup scope - primary a LEU Vx-II 2-7, backup a Burris 4x Mini.
I'd saved my zero check targets from multiple trips and one day I overlaid a bunch of them and drew a composite, and 19 shots, taken over three airline trips, (where I removed the barreled action for travel, then reassembled at the hunt location), scope swaps between the prime and backup, and all 19 went inside 1.7" with most inside 1.5". And this rifle doesn't shoot much better than 1.5" anyway.
So I would say the Leupold QR are very repeatable.
I have recently learned the potential value of scope base and ring bedding and am going to give that a try a on a current .256 Newton build that wears these bases and rings.
Best of luck\,
Rex The rifle that fell over onto the gun room carpeted floor and snapped off the Leupold QR take-down levers was a Husqvarna 8000 series S&W C custom rifle chambered in 256 Newton, half of a matched pair, the other being chambered in 338-06. The Leupold QRs reliably return to zero and I would use them if those take-down levers were more robust.
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Great responses friends! I think I'll be able to make up my mind on which to start
with by tonight. As to "the claw" system, yes, it's a complex thing to have installed
correctly, and it's very, expensive. With both of those two reasons being identified,
that's why I ruled it out at the start.
Jack
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