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Typically it's a matter of trimming a smidgen off the mag well (box) to relieve any binding that occurs from tightening action screws. If the mag well can not move or rattle after stock screws are tight, then the mag well is putting pressure on the action and can cause erratic groups. Filing a bit off the mag well box will relieve this pressure. I was shooting nightmare groups during initial break in/new scope zero......switched scopes with a prove scope, no change. Found this tip on a ruger forum.. .....trimmed maybe 1/32 off the mag well pressure points....started getting MOA results immediately.
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Campfire Outfitter
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The 77 always seems to come up in these type of discussions. Same dislikes and likes. Heavy, investment blah blah, Accurate enough, bad barrels, etc…. Working mans gun, accurate, sleepers, so on and so. Seems like everyone has had a bad one if you have had enough. I’ve only seen one that wouldn’t shoot. Compact mkII in 7mm-08 when I was younger.
I’ve owned enough to know a few tricks that might have tightened it up.
I’ll go ahead and post what I know up. Most folks will already know these but I think this is a good time to share. Isn’t that why we are here?
Stop reading here and PM me if your Ruger is a price of junk and you want to mail her to me because it’s a lost cause.
1. Torque the action screws in order. front lug screw gorilla tight, rear trigger guard monkey tight and middle just enough to hold it firm and allow the floor plate to latch without being rattly. 2. Relieve the box magazine contact points where the trigger guard and floor plate hinge meet. Should have the ability to move just freely and not bind when action it torqued. (See step 1) 3. Most Ruger triggers are adequate when it comes to weight and creep except the MKII. (Now notice I said adequate, no need to argue over it. There are better factory triggers) All have creep and over travel that will drive you crazy when compared to other triggers but can be corrected with trigger job or new trigger. The MKII needs some serious stone work to ease the weight and creep. (Maybe the root cause of a lot of inaccuracies). Easy enough for the novice with patience and directions found online. 4. I’ve never bedded or floated a Ruger so I cannot speak to that. Others can chime in on that front. 5. To reduce the weight. Stay away from the magnum contours and 25/06, buy a new lighter stock, or a set of dumbbells and bulk up a little. If a 7-9 lbs rifle knocks you out of the hunt maybe it’s time for a new hobby or life choices. Meant to be a joke. The magnum contoured barreled guns and 25-06 are tanks! 6. Sell them to me a severely discounted rate since, you know, the above issues.
My love for the Ruger 77 came from my first 2 and my uncle. A Stainless MKII 308. Given to me by my father in 2001 (my first bolt gun), a m77 tanger in 30-06 given to me by my father in law, and a 25-06 skeleton that I obsessed over ever since my uncle showed me his in the 90s. I still own all three, plus a Hawkeye Blue and laminate 264, and a stainless mkII 300 wsm.
Cheers all! And long live the Ruger M77! Number 2 above was a big deal on my hawkeye.......and I appreciate the action screw torque recommendation. Really surprised the mag box fix hasn't been mentioned more during this now 14 page thread. You can do all work on a M77 as stated above and some won't group. The angle action screw can be touching the stock. I realized this years ago. Out of the box a 77 shot respectable groups then suddenly not. Lucky my Grandfather's best friend was a gunsmith/stock maker and he had a 77 react the same as mine and the topic was brought up at deer camp. He said pull the action/barrel out of the stock, take a 1/4 round file and gently relieve some wood so the action screw does not touch. Voila.
You're Welcome At My Fire Anytime
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My God that's a beautiful rifle!
Your Every Liberal vote promotes Socialism and is an attack on the Second Amendment. You will suffer the consequences.
GOA,Idaho2AIAlliance,AmericanFirearmsAssociation,IdahoTrappersAssociation,FoundationForWildlifeManagement ID and MT.
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I have had 3 77's, all tangers. The first two were an early '70's 77V in .25-06 and a late '70's 77V in .220 Swift. I still have the Swift. Both were accurate rifles. The .25-06, with 4064 or 3031 would keep 75 grain Sierra HP's under 3/4" for 5 shots. The Swift, with the same powders, would keep 55 grain, pre-BT Noslers under a half inch (most of the time) for 5. I have, after a long hiatus, started playing with the Swift again. The third 77 I have is a 77R in 7mm RM. It's a mid '80's gun. It's not been in the same league, accuracy-wise, as the other two, but more than adequate for it's purpose which was always deer hunting. It will keep good bullets either side of an inch for 3. I've probably killed more deer with that than with any other individual rifle. It now resides with one of my sons out in Missouri.
The '70's 77's have bolts that lock down with the safety on, which I prefer. My 7mm RM has a bolt that doesn't lock down. I guess the change was made for safety reasons, but I don't like it.
Mathew 22: 37-39
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Campfire Ranger
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The '70's 77's have bolts that lock down with the safety on, which I prefer. My 7mm RM has a bolt that doesn't lock down. I guess the change was made for safety reasons, but I don't like it.
Did it have a trigger job or a timney installed? This is the Mark II correct ? If so the safety selector pad was ground too far down, it should lock. Good luck with the repair, it involves sending it back to RUger who will undo the trigger job and replace the safety selector . Ask me how I know. Ruger 77 is the Timex watch of the rifle world.
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The '70's 77's have bolts that lock down with the safety on, which I prefer. My 7mm RM has a bolt that doesn't lock down. I guess the change was made for safety reasons, but I don't like it.
Did it have a trigger job or a timney installed? This is the Mark II correct ? If so the safety selector pad was ground too far down, it should lock. Good luck with the repair, it involves sending it back to RUger who will undo the trigger job and replace the safety selector . Ask me how I know. Ruger 77 is the Timex watch of the rifle world. It doesn't have a trigger job or an aftermarket trigger. It's not a Mark II. In 1984 Ruger started making the tang-safety 77 so the safety no longer locked down the bolt handle when engaged.
Mathew 22: 37-39
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The '70's 77's have bolts that lock down with the safety on, which I prefer. My 7mm RM has a bolt that doesn't lock down. I guess the change was made for safety reasons, but I don't like it.
Did it have a trigger job or a timney installed? This is the Mark II correct ? If so the safety selector pad was ground too far down, it should lock. Good luck with the repair, it involves sending it back to RUger who will undo the trigger job and replace the safety selector . Ask me how I know. Ruger 77 is the Timex watch of the rifle world. It doesn't have a trigger job or an aftermarket trigger. It's not a Mark II. In 1984 Ruger started making the tang-safety 77 so the safety no longer locked down the bolt handle when engaged. Yeah that makes no sense unless their lawyers saw what was happening to Remington triggers.
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The Ruger had much the same issue as the Remington; it had a fully adjustable trigger which could be adjusted too light and the safety had to be off to unload the rifle. Rugers had fired on safety release too and they wanted to get ahead of it. GD
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The Ruger had much the same issue as the Remington; it had a fully adjustable trigger which could be adjusted too light and the safety had to be off to unload the rifle. Rugers had fired on safety release too and they wanted to get ahead of it. GD Did not know that, thanks for the info.
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Thx for posting round oak, very informative.
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Yes, I'm learning some things here. Valuable.
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I have been enjoying this thread as Ruger tang safety’s are a favorite of mine. I have had a few and some I wish I hadn’t sold like a lot of folks on here. The 2 I have now, a round top .30-06 and a .200 Swift varmint, are very accurate and work fine. The 06 is as it came from the factory, almost. 😎 The .220 swift has a Canjar single set trigger and some bedding work. Have had them both for many years and it would be hard to part with either of them. Are they light, no. Did they cost a lot, no. Do they have the latest plastic stock, again, no. But they work and what more could you ask from any rifle, no matter what the price or pedigree. Sorry for the doe picture , I have shot a couple of small 8pts with it, but I am a meat hunter first. Also not very good. 😂
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I have my RLS listed here in the classifieds.
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Did Ruger ever make a M77 in 30/06 in a bull barrel? Over 22 inches?
I love this very informative thread.
Last edited by DrDeath; 09/29/22.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Did Ruger ever make a M77 in 30/06 in a bull barrel? Over 22 inches?
I love this very informative thread. In 30/06? Sorry.
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Reportedly five M77V 30-06 were made. SN range 770-272xx, 1984. The "V" in the M77 from '68 - 1992 was noted as a Varmint heavy bull barrel, no length mentioned.
My Ruger info is only up until 2010. Not familiar with the recent models.
Ed
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And one more question. Did Ruger make their later year Hawkeye RSI models with Matte Blue metal finishes or gloss Blue?
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I could get behind a little 300 like that.
Semper Fi
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