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Originally Posted by kevinJ
Even have fiber I can add to concrete for reinforcement if I want!

Mountain. I would love to hear of other brands!


Fiber just complicates things and adds 0 reinforcement. Just an FYI.

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Kevin I built one a while back for a family friend that owns a security business, and the door he bought was for 8" cmu and was 60" x 83 with a 3 or 4 hour fire rating and the floor was a 12" deep slab with #4 rebar 8" on center the ceiling was a 10" pour over with rebar 8" on center, the door sandwiched the cmu wall with heavy steel bolts that fastened to the inside steel frame and the door had a approx 5-6" cavity both sides and top that had #5 rebar verts and horrizontal that was grouted solid when we poured the walls!

I think 12" cmu would be over kill unless your tying into another wall that your already using 12" block on, but if you are wanting over kill I would suggest using #5 or #6 double curtain rebar for added strength!

And your right a good door will be expensive and fairly permanent!

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Originally Posted by lvmiker
Our safe room, where I keep most of my guns, is primarily to give my wife a refuge when I am gone. The entrance is not visible and requires a trick to enter. A visible safe/vault is an invitation to home invaders to torture you or your wife to gain entrance, the more visible your wealth the greater the incentive to the real bad guys. Security systems are often compromised by the installers selling the info.


mike r

Good advice.

1) A safe room isn’t worth a thing if you tell people about it and they stick a gun to your head.

2) Tell your wife that it isn’t about your guns or a man cave retreat It’s about her safety.

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We don’t get tornadoes here hardly at all. Too many mountains
Some crazy thunder storms but nothing requires a storm room

This is more fire and hood rat proofing

This room is solely to store documents, cash, firearms and things of that nature. Won’t be hanging out in it

The room leading to it will be a reloading room and man cave. One side of the room will have my rogue fitness rack setup. The room leading to it will be a den with a bar for all my bourbon and then it will lead to a down stairs garage for my truck and toys.

She doesn’t care what I do down here thank god!

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Originally Posted by sackett
Have you looked at Sturdy Safe? They offer both standard and custom sizes. I cannot say anything about their vault doors, but can give high ratings for their safes.

sturdy safe standard vault doors

sturdy safe custom size vault doors




I'd give these folks a call

Good company, great people, and one heck of a no nonsense quality product manufactured in the USA.

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Ackley. The walls are carrying concrete and truss load from above and two of the 4 are exterior walls under ground and will have to be 12”. Not really optional except for the entrance according to local building codes and the weight bearing nature

I will step to 8” at the door entrance for ease of door selection I suppose

Dad is a brick and block mason. Using lots of free rebar he has lying around!

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Originally Posted by kevinJ
Ackley. The walls are carrying concrete and truss load from above and two of the 4 are exterior walls under ground and will have to be 12”. Not really optional except for the entrance according to local building codes and the weight bearing nature

I will step to 8” at the door entrance for ease of door selection I suppose

Dad is a brick and block mason. Using lots of free rebar he has lying around!


Kevin you pretty much have everything covered and sounds like the labor and some materials will pretty much free get a door that you will be happy with even if it costs a bit more....good luck!

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I've got a Fort Know vault door. The poured walls and cap are are rebar reinforced, drain in the floor, power outlets and lights. Walls are studded out, insulated and sided with osb board. Painters painted the ceiling, walls and an epoxy paint was used on the floor. I built a single shelf and drilled holes for 3/8" dowells to hold guns in place. I run a dehumidifier and a small heater for temp control.
Prices sure have jumped on vault doors. I paid $5800 installed for the door in 2019. It's solid, weighs around 1100 lbs and looks great.

While we were building our house, we went through a parade home with a walk in vault. That builder was using a china knock off door. Pretty sure it could be pried open with a crowbar.

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Originally Posted by TheLastLemming76
Originally Posted by lvmiker
Our safe room, where I keep most of my guns, is primarily to give my wife a refuge when I am gone. The entrance is not visible and requires a trick to enter. A visible safe/vault is an invitation to home invaders to torture you or your wife to gain entrance, the more visible your wealth the greater the incentive to the real bad guys. Security systems are often compromised by the installers selling the info.


mike r

Good advice.

1) A safe room isn’t worth a thing if you tell people about it and they stick a gun to your head.

2) Tell your wife that it isn’t about your guns or a man cave retreat It’s about her safety.



Absolutely! Her safe room also contains parts of my home gym, the walls are lined w/ gear and ammo closets/shelves. I am typing this while watching Tucker in her safe room. Life is good.grin



mike r


Don't wish it were easier
Wish you were better

Stab them in the taint, you can't put a tourniquet on that.
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Originally Posted by kevinJ
We can afford the Fort Knox door. I’m trying to be frugal knowing at some point something on this build is going to be over budget. Trying not to be foolish money wise.

I’m just not sure it’s worth the huge premium. That’s my dilemma. I have no real experience with them. Are they really gonna make a huge difference in the basement if my house is a total
Loss?

I could go on a good hunt with that money or buy more guns!


The 40” wide steel security fire door is obviously much more affordable and seems like would be dang near impossible to bust in with 3 point lock.

In the case that the house burns and all the rubble ends up in the basement along with the water, will the floor drain carry the water away as fast as it seeps through the door?

I think that is a question I would be asking.


My ideal as a conservative:

That each person may reap as he/she has sown.
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Originally Posted by lvmiker
Originally Posted by TheLastLemming76
Originally Posted by lvmiker
Our safe room, where I keep most of my guns, is primarily to give my wife a refuge when I am gone. The entrance is not visible and requires a trick to enter. A visible safe/vault is an invitation to home invaders to torture you or your wife to gain entrance, the more visible your wealth the greater the incentive to the real bad guys. Security systems are often compromised by the installers selling the info.


mike r

Good advice.

1) A safe room isn’t worth a thing if you tell people about it and they stick a gun to your head.

2) Tell your wife that it isn’t about your guns or a man cave retreat It’s about her safety.



Absolutely! Her safe room also contains parts of my home gym, the walls are lined w/ gear and ammo closets/shelves. I am typing this while watching Tucker in her safe room. Life is good.grin



mike r



Living the dream! I’m about 15 years out from retirement and look forward to building our cabin/retirement home with something similar in mind. A safe room/gun room where I can lounge and enjoy looking at my guns while relaxing.

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I built mine out of 8" cmu poured solid with 6 sack concrete grout and 5/8 " rebar 24" O.C. It was basically the foundation in the basement for a 4' x4' Rumford fireplace i built for the main floor that had a 10" thick concrete lab i hooked my floor Joyce's to and was the ceiling for the safe.
If it was me and I would just wire in with conduit a light and outlet for Golden rod and forget the ventilation.
I sold the house about a year ago and can't remember who I had built the door the company was from Hunting Beach California and had been in the family since the 50's.

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We will have a rumford fireplace as well

But the base for it is sharing footer with the back patio as there will be a fireplace( most likely gas) on the covered back patio. Which only left us with a small area inside unfortunately

So had to designate a space for it!!!!!

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Originally Posted by kevinJ
We will have a rumford fireplace as well

But the base for it is sharing footer with the back patio as there will be a fireplace( most likely gas) on the covered back patio. Which only left us with a small area inside unfortunately

So had to designate a space for it!!!!!


You can make the safe area as big as you want within reason if its in the basement then pour a thick slab at main level reduce the size if you want. The slab acts just like a footer if its thick enough and reinforced.

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Go to Snap-Safe, a Hornady company, and order the wide one. They have good information on the opening you'll need. Delivery and installation of mine was straight-forward and I'm quite satisfied. And for quite a bit less than Fort Knox.

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Sherm. Had I done that I would have lost space in downstairs garage on this build. But we did think about that!

I know I didn’t post plans to show everything. But we created this area as it was not there originally to prevent losing out in the downstairs garage space

The original back patio and house had a area that was just dirt between them. A square alcove per say. Would have been grass or plants I guess. We dug that and created more patio also allowing this safe room without messing up the downstairs basement space.

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Sounds like your on the right path good luck with the project got family members to help you out so thats good.
Smartest thing I did was my door and wiring in outlets for Golden rod or rods depending on your size.

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Any other door suggestions?

Sherm. I’ll have outlets on all walls most likely. Assume 2 rods from what I’m seeing sq footage wise

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Originally Posted by kevinJ
Need some opinions and or advice. Prefer first hand experience obviously

Building a house. Have a 9ftx10ft area we will be pouring the ceiling and creating a vault or safe room in basement

12” block walls poured with horizontal and vertical rebar. At door will step to 8” block unless going Fort Knox safe to allow for door. Roof will have a 4x6 I beam with spandeck on top and compuseal gold waterproofing with Np1 caulk. Then concrete. It’s a back patio area on top and covered by roof

Floor will have a drain for dehumidifier to hook up to.

Lights inside. Will also have air flow through hvac at recommendation of a local company that sells safe doors. I think that defeats purpose during fire but they acted like it didn’t

I may put a exhaust fan and not hvac

Here’s the question

Vault door at 9-11g $ for a genuine browning or Fort Knox. They are crazy expensive

Or a 3 point lock steel fire security door with keyed/electronic locks.
Have body shop paint it up fancy and put something like “jinks vault door company” est 2022. Basically lipstick it up some. Under 1800$ total

What say the fire



Put the 3 point door on the inside, and a 1/2 inch steel door with hinges and bolts for the outside like a storm door. Get a welding fabricator make it, and have it so you can lock it from the outside, or reverse the locks and lock it from the inside. Simple steel bolts and serious padlocks will slow down the druggie scum when you're not home, then they have another door after that. A good welding shop should be able to handle it. It might take every fellow you know t hang it. I'd have the hinges welded , too. Also , camo the entrance with shelves, etc. ......if they don't know it's there, even better.

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If your looking at fire doors research them well alot are made with sheetrock for fire protection, mine had 8 locking lugs and was built i believe it would have taken a cutting torch to get into it.

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