Home Forums Reloading Varmint Rifles I need a new powder measure

I’m using TAC for my new load in my Tikka .223 T3 Varmint stainless. It’s a really fine ball powder and I find my Lee powder measure isn’t up to the task. I’m dropping kernels all over. Can anyone recommend a better powder measure?




P

RCBS Uniflow

Redding BR30

Harrell's

I use ball powders in my Uniflow all the time. No leakage issues at all.

Use the proper drop tube and you won't have that problem. My drop tube was just a little too large for the 223 cases so I found one I had laying around that the mouth of the case would fit up tight to the tube and all the powder goes in the case now instead the top of my table.... or use a small funnel under the existing drop tube to catch the drop and direct it into the case...

Yep, that's where the uniflow shines. I guess if the op was wanting to drop consistent charges of stick powder, I've been told the cheap azzed plastic lee is where its at. When one goes bad, you just toss it and buy another.

The Cheap Ass Plastic Lee Dippers is exactly what I have been using since the 90s.... and I have been happy with them since the 90s...

If it ain't broke, I have NO need to FIX it....

and I also get by with a 505 Beam Scale.... bought the entire set up from the Fred Flintstone Estate....

Which Lee powder measure are you using? The original Lee Perfect leaks badly with ball powder, but my Deluxe Perfect does really well.

Im still using a 70 year old Belding & Mull, with ball powder you wont even need a scale.
Look on Ebay, you might find one in mint condition.
Make sure it includes the drop tube.

Harrell's, my new fave. My old Belting&Mull that I swore by for 40 years is still top notch too.

Harrell’s. Hasbeen

Redding BR30 is a real pleasure with fine grained or ball powder. The micrometer stem makes it easy to set up. It doesn't like flake powders at all!

RCBS uniflow gobbles up the flake powder.

It's good to have both!

Good lord, 250 - 300 bucks to run ball powder, what a joke. Uniflow is all you need.

Original. Leaks like a sieve.

I’ll look at the Uniflow.

Thanks.

I have a couple Redding, like them!

Another Redding vote.....BR30

another.....buy once/cry once item

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012974166

I saw a comparison on YouTube of 3 powder measures and the RCBS Competition did very well. I like the idea of a baffle and the Competition isn’t much more than the Uniflow.

I've been using the RCBS Uniflow for a very long time. It is okay for extruded powder if you use a good cutting technique for every thrown charge. Ball powders are where they shine IMO. I use them for ball powders for my 223 and a couple others and I check the thrown charge about every 10 loads and they are almost always within abou .1 grain of where I have it set. One trick Iearned about using the Uniflow is to keep it at least half full to keep a consistent weight on the channel to the adjustable chamber. Once it gets under about 1/4 full they tend to get a little less reliable in charge weights... the baffles cure this issue..

I've never even looked at the competition model. Buy one and let us know how she does. I can' t tell you how many times I've pulled the handle on my uniflow, but its enough times to tell you its a great measure. I've been using it since '96 and it's still going strong. I can say it is a very crucial part of my reloading equipment.

I have a Harrell's 90 that works really well. You can also just shorten a case until it holds the right amount of powder and dip it.

Ordered a Competition from Amazon. I’ll keep you posted.

Nothing more than a Uniflow with micrometer adjustment screws and their 5.99 baffle thrown in. They think real highly of those screws, 50-60 bucks per.

The difference was $27.

I make three times that every dance.




P

Jeebus dude lighten up. You can buy the large/small screws that will fit any Uniflow depending on whether you have both large/ small cylinders. I don’t really give a damn how much you make or spend, question was proposed on what difference the competition was.
I answered.

I'll be curious how it works for you when it arrives. I've looked at the upgrade kits to make the regular Uniflow into a competition version, but mine works so well for what I use it for I can't convince myself to change it. But then I've been using it for at least 40 years so I know all its little quirks.... besides, for the small difference in cost I would have gone that route also...

Bob

Lighten up, Francis, that was a joke. Getting paid to dance, like a stripper, $81 in singles every dance.

Oh, ok. I have a micrometer adjustment for my uniflow. I tried to like it, but prefer the smaller one that came with the uniflow.
Dang, I should have looked to see what the difference was. I tried to like the larger micrometer adjust screw, but didn't like it very much. It seemed too big to me, and added extra weight to the handle. I'm like you Bob, I'm so used to the regular adjustment screw that I just turn it where I think it should be and am generally only off by a few grains and then its simple to adjust from that point. I was thinking the other day that its funny when I've made the initial adjustment and found it to be spot on. Its just a matter of learning the system. When I'm working up loads and bumping up charge weights by 1/2 grain, I just adjust the measure and set the scale and 90% of the time it is right on the money.

9 out of 10 times the Harrells is superior to the Uniflow...............
The 1 out of 10 times it is not is with flake powder, a Harrells will not throw flake powder and the Uniflow will

Lyman 55 is how I roll.

Timely thread...I have the PPM and it's good with stick powders. Definitely leaks with ball. I'd like a powder measure that's accurate.

Someone missed your humor.

I did not.

THIS

Yep. The thing I like most about the Harrell's is the precisely positive micrometer adjustment. You can adjust for a specific charge using a scale, go about re-adjusting for other powders/charges, and come back to the original setting and it'll be absolutely right on. Another for-instance: I know with mine that 5 increments equals .5 grain of 4227 which is a boon when when working with my single shot cast bullet target rifles and load testing at the range while breech seating bullets and working with one cartridge case. That feature, to me, makes the high price worthwhile. Mine even works darned good with coarser stick powders like 4198 and 4759, but in all honesty I have no clue about really coarse stick powders as I haven't tried it with them. For them I use the Belding&Mull.

For flake powder pistol charges I still use the old Belding&Mull too.

Well, everyone knows Oklahomans possess above average intelligence.




P

in the movie Officer and a Gentleman ,that`s not what the black Officer said at the beginning of the movie ?

The Lyman is a fine powder measure. The only problem is the time to set it. I know people who have several set for different charge weights.
That’s what I like about the Harrells. Repeatable settings. Hasbeen

Accurate with what kind of powder? That may be the better question... I have no issues at all with ball powder and flake powder with the uniflow. I don't load a ton of pistol ammo, just enough to do the monthly bowling pin shoots with 3 different pistols. Rifle on the other hand, I will sit down and load 1,000 223's at a time. That is just a little over 3 hours on the single stage. Accuracy can also be interpreted as how well your loads shoot downrange as well as how accurately or precisely powder is dispensed. Here's my take: I have all but switched to finer powders that meter very accurately out of my uniflow for the smaller rifle cartridges I shoot. This includes the 223, 6x45, 22-250, and some slightly larger hunting cartridges like my 7mm08 and 308win. I still drop and trickle charges in for my precision loads that I use in competition. Well one of the cartridges I use in competition anyway (6.5 creedmoor). My uniflow does not drop consistent enough charges of H4350 to suit my needs. This is what I like, when I can get it:

These are weighed charges^^

Now, I shoot the same events with my 22-250 on less windy days. Its surprising how well that little bullet does, even at 600 yards:

and at 400 yards:



These loads are all just dropped from the uniflow. I've checked mine and it's never even close to a 1/10th of a grain off with ball powders or fine extruded stuff. Once set, its there and I don't use baffles either. Never have seen the need to do so. Now, I've experimented with powders like H4895 and did a comparison between dropped charges from the uniflow where there is as much as 3/10 of a grain difference and dropped/trickled and weighed charges:


Now, the same load and rifle, but with weighed charges:


That's a substantial difference. So, in terms of "accuracy", the proof is always going to be downrange on target as well as what the scale tells you. All of my plinking ammo for my AR's is loaded straight from the uniflow to the case in the loading block. Accuracy is always sub moa in my good rifles and right around moa with the others:


Also, as for a powder measure that "leaks" out onto the loading bench, I would have ripped the mother fu cker out and thrown it away. That's just me though.. I can live with having to drop and trickle the rest in on extruded powders. That is just a 6-8 second per case affair anyway. Not a huge inconvenience.

you might consider getting a machine like RCBS or Lyman has where you type in the grains you want and it provides within .1 grains. I was looking for a RCBVS unit and found a Lyman - I'm happy with the Lyman.

DELETE if this is not proper. Thought you BM guys could use it for parts or rehabilitate it.

Belding and Mull powder measure Sold as parts.

The hopper is a copper tube. No spiggot :-)

$25 postage paid.

I might have one of those LOL

Have a big ammo can of powder measures, various old brands and another can w newer RCBS and Hornady stuff.

Seems like everybody around here wants digital.

Have two 55s, one in box. Both could use repaint. Jad a minty one yrs ago and just used it to drop ww296. Worked fine. Might clean up the short tube one and keep.


Stick powder i just weigh every charge, use a trickler.

I’ll be curious to see how you like it. I’ve been using the same uniflow forever and have both cylinders for it. It’s been great from the finest ball powders and flakes for pistols up through the extruded powders.

Tim B, is that you?

Indeed.

A Chargemaster Lite “changed my life”. Still use a Little Dandy for some handgun loads, but the CML is fast enough for what I do, and can’t bridge, or throw light charges because the weight is displayed right in front of me. Warm it up, calibrate, punch in the charge. Throws the next one when I put the pan back. I check it against another e-scale and by weighing bullets. Never varies.

I use my Lee PPM for everything from Bullseye/H110 in pistol to H1000 in rifles. With Benchmark/XBR8208 range of powders, you can drop a load pretty close to the desired weight as long as the hopper stays full. This will not occur as the hopper empties or with larger stick powders. With any type of ball powder, H335, H110, etc. the Lee PPM leaks. When I mentioned accuracy, it would be preferred to have a powder measure that is accurate in terms of being able to set a charge and drop it without weighing every charge. This tall order goes for rifle (stick) or pistol powder (ball). Other have mentioned a Chargemaster....I've had one for years and don't use it. I can load/trickle faster with the PPM over the CM.

If it is for sale I will take it for $25.

Yep

If it's still for sale I will take it.
Thanks

I keep seeing people mention that their powder measure "leaks"? Where does it leak? I had a problem somewhat with this for a while with my 223 cases with my Uniflow, but realized the shoulder of the AI case was contacting the drop tube before the neck was tight against the tube mouth and it caused powder to fall around the neck and down to the shoulder - until I lowered the case and had powder all over my loading table. I was able to concoct a different drop tube set up with a smaller drop tube I had laying around- probably from when I had a 17 Remington and it worked perfectly for the 223 AI cases.... RCBS is really good about selling separate pieces if the right pieces don't come in your kit with the powder measure..

Bob

Sorry it is sold.

+1 on Redding BR 30.

The Lee PPM leaks around the drum with ball powder.

I agree devnull. I can also drop a chage and trickle faster than a digital scale. Also don't trust electronics for something like that either. I'm sure the newer ones are better, but have heard the horror stories about them. Have to warm them up, flourescent lighting will affect them etc. etc. Like I said in another post, I can drop a charge and tricke in the rest in 6-8 seconds with my set up. That's just how I load though. Others can use the digital stuff, but its on them if they have a catastrophic failure.. Now back to using a powder measure (such as the RCBS Uniflow), that is a very quick ordeal when dropping ball powders. I load up the loading block (50 pieces of brass) and drop from the uniflow all 50 in about 3 minutes. There's no digital scale that is going to keep up with that. Absolutely No need to use digital when the powder measure works that well either. It's also not about going fast, it's about going at your own pace. Safety is always #1, but you can do things safely in a prompt manner.. Just don't get in my way when I'm swinging a hammer!!!!!

Yup.

That stinks... you will love the Uniflow then...

If I'm not mistaken, you can tighten up the drum on that measure so that it won't leak. I had a Lee PPM some years back, and it seems like that was an option. It did make operating the thing a little stiffer, though.

I’ve had my Uniflow since about 1990. Only added the micrometer adjustment to make dialing a bit easier. With powders it likes it works well. I don’t shoot crazy accurate stuff though. Plus or mins a few tenths won’t end my day.

It’s plenty stiff and still leaks.

The powder measure, too.




P

Sounds like a personal problem buddy. You are a pharmacist, maybe you can prescribe something for that..

My uniflow came with my rcbs kit I bought 14yrs ago. When the px up here used to sell reloading stuff. I lost the inserts for the different case mouths oh well. Only thing I done to it was put the baffle in it.

Same here. Added a baffle about 20 years later.

Taint no pharmacist. Drug rep.

Pharmacists just count by fives all day. Pffft.





P

Contact RCBS and they will probably send you the inserts for free. They have the best customer service I've ever experienced- but haven't had to use them much over the years...

My Redding BR works great with ball powders. I’m out of town now, so not close to my bench. I bought the measure in the early 90’s so I don’t remember the exact model. I’ve been using TAC in 223 for a few years now. I don’t think I’ve ever had a powder that measures as well.

How does it do with stick powders? I was reading on another site that the BR-30 Redding hangs up with powders like Varget. I don't know how your Redding compares to the BR-30, or if it may be the 30? I've thought about replacing my uniflow a few times with something that is better with stick powders, but I've gotten used to just dropping a charge and trickling the rest in. The perfect powder measure would drop every kind of powder with .1gr consistency every time. What powder measure is that? Harrels maybe??? The funny thing is I see guys with 3 or more powder measures set up. One for this powder and 2 more for this kind. To me that is not KISS. The method I much prefer...

From an old thread:



When I do weigh charges, rather than deliberately throwing short and trickling up I've found it faster to set the measure to throw right on with most deviations occurring on the high side. Then I just dump out what I believe to be an appropriate number of kernels and put the pan back on the 10-10 for confirmation. Most of the time I hit it right on the money. I've used that scale for over forty years and I've built up a pretty good feel for correcting charges to make the pointer line up just right. On top of that I reap the benefit of having a lot of the charges throwing right on instead of deliberately setting myself up to trickle up every one of them.

Good post mathman. I think in reality, we all do things a little differently. Your way may take 6-8 seconds, as does mine. No one really wrong per se. Its about finding a routine that works for you. I am not one to dilly dally when it comes to reloading, I like keeping things sweet and to the point. Efficiency and accuracy are key. The funny thing is I am not nearly as critical as I used to be because of guys like you (mainly you) and your point of letting it go a tenth one way or the other. That essentially speeds up the process and you don't lose much, if any in terms of accuracy..

With respect to handloading techniques, I see it as "horses for courses" and what the shooter/rifle reasonably expect to resolve.

Erik Cortina isn't dipping powder with Lee scoops for 1000 yard F class matches, but a guy with a Savage 99 and a vintage Weaver 2.5x with a post reticle isn't netting any practical advantage from a Prometheus scale either.

I read an article on weighing charges quite some time ago written by some reloading guru with a reputation of knowing what he is doing.... in any case, he suggested a technique to make your Uniflow work best with stick powders like H4831, which I use a lot, is to make quick, up and down movements and always in exactly the same motion so the charge bar would load the same each time and the drum would cut any kernels half in the opening without hanging up. I tried it and it works very well and I have continued to use this technique ever since. I can usually throw stick powders within about .2 grains if I pay attention, but I check them anyway and adjust if necessary.

I have found a weak point in my system quite a while ago though. My Ohaus 10-10 is a very good scale but I found it wasn't always settling like I wanted and I wasn't sure of my loads a few times. I looked in the cradle where the pivot rod sets and I realized there was a bit of dust in there. I used a qtip and a bit of alcohol and cleaned it out and the arm worked much better and settled more consistently. I still tap the arm once it has settled to make sure it settles in the same place before dumping my charge if I'm not comfortable with how it is acting but this usually takes care of the issue. I did buy one of those little electronic scales you can get on Amazon and ebay for about $20 just recently to check my 10-10 when I need to just as a back up.

Bob

Good post buddy. I agree. I noticed the same thing with my 5-0-5 and do keep an eye on that piece of the scale. Works much better when it is clean.

I don't know about you guys, but I see a lot of monkey fu cking the foot ball idiots on youtube trying to operate a powder measure and scale. A lot of hand switching and fumbling going on. The way I have mine set up is about optimal. Based on some pictures I've seen here, I wonder how some of you do it. Some set ups look like knuckle busters and inefficiency. Not how I roll... I took some pictures the other day of my new set up. Just like the other one I had in Oregon. The funny thing while on the subject of using a powder measure. This is how far off I was in my initial setting with the regular ol uni flow:


I was doing some load development for my 30-06, trying some Big Game powder, which drops like water out of a faucet. I counted how many adjustments I needed to get dialed in. 1 adjustment and I was "zeroed". Perfectly dialed for that powder. Then the next jump in charge weight was 1/2 grain. That took 2 adjustments. Check with scale and then reconfirm a couple times just for the hell of it. Next 1/2 grain increment took 1 adjustment, went like that for the next 3, 1/2 grain increments.. Pretty easy schidt, which I have found does not require the micrometer adjustment. That reminds me, I should sell that bastid. Its called the "UPM Mic Adjustment Screw LG". Part #98901. I don't need it.

That you HAD in Oregon?

you didn't move on us did ya Lawrence?

Redding for me, for over 30 years.