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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 23,501
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 23,501 |
My uniflow came with my rcbs kit I bought 14yrs ago. When the px up here used to sell reloading stuff. I lost the inserts for the different case mouths oh well. Only thing I done to it was put the baffle in it.
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego. Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,308 Likes: 1
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,308 Likes: 1 |
My uniflow came with my rcbs kit I bought 14yrs ago. When the px up here used to sell reloading stuff. I lost the inserts for the different case mouths oh well. Only thing I done to it was put the baffle in it. Same here. Added a baffle about 20 years later.
Semper Fi
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 13,174 Likes: 1
Campfire Outfitter
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OP
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 13,174 Likes: 1 |
I keep seeing people mention that their powder measure "leaks"? Where does it leak? I had a problem somewhat with this for a while with my 223 cases with my Uniflow, but realized the shoulder of the AI case was contacting the drop tube before the neck was tight against the tube mouth and it caused powder to fall around the neck and down to the shoulder - until I lowered the case and had powder all over my loading table. I was able to concoct a different drop tube set up with a smaller drop tube I had laying around- probably from when I had a 17 Remington and it worked perfectly for the 223 AI cases.... RCBS is really good about selling separate pieces if the right pieces don't come in your kit with the powder measure..
Bob The Lee PPM leaks around the drum with ball powder. If I'm not mistaken, you can tighten up the drum on that measure so that it won't leak. I had a Lee PPM some years back, and it seems like that was an option. It did make operating the thing a little stiffer, though. It’s plenty stiff and still leaks. The powder measure, too. P Sounds like a personal problem buddy. You are a pharmacist, maybe you can prescribe something for that.. Taint no pharmacist. Drug rep. Pharmacists just count by fives all day. Pffft. P
Obey lawful commands. Video interactions. Hold bad cops accountable. Problem solved.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Member #547 Join date 3/09/2001
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,988 Likes: 3
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,988 Likes: 3 |
My uniflow came with my rcbs kit I bought 14yrs ago. When the px up here used to sell reloading stuff. I lost the inserts for the different case mouths oh well. Only thing I done to it was put the baffle in it. Contact RCBS and they will probably send you the inserts for free. They have the best customer service I've ever experienced- but haven't had to use them much over the years...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 375
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 375 |
My Redding BR works great with ball powders. I’m out of town now, so not close to my bench. I bought the measure in the early 90’s so I don’t remember the exact model. I’ve been using TAC in 223 for a few years now. I don’t think I’ve ever had a powder that measures as well.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8 |
My Redding BR works great with ball powders. I’m out of town now, so not close to my bench. I bought the measure in the early 90’s so I don’t remember the exact model. I’ve been using TAC in 223 for a few years now. I don’t think I’ve ever had a powder that measures as well. How does it do with stick powders? I was reading on another site that the BR-30 Redding hangs up with powders like Varget. I don't know how your Redding compares to the BR-30, or if it may be the 30? I've thought about replacing my uniflow a few times with something that is better with stick powders, but I've gotten used to just dropping a charge and trickling the rest in. The perfect powder measure would drop every kind of powder with .1gr consistency every time. What powder measure is that? Harrels maybe??? The funny thing is I see guys with 3 or more powder measures set up. One for this powder and 2 more for this kind. To me that is not KISS. The method I much prefer...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 44,860 Likes: 4
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 44,860 Likes: 4 |
From an old thread: I use a Redding BR-30 and I do not tap, knock, whatever. I grasp the throw handle in such a way to make a slow, high torque back and forth motion. This avoids vibration and bumps when throwing long kernel extruded powders. The handle doesn't stop, it just shears right through. When I do weigh charges, rather than deliberately throwing short and trickling up I've found it faster to set the measure to throw right on with most deviations occurring on the high side. Then I just dump out what I believe to be an appropriate number of kernels and put the pan back on the 10-10 for confirmation. Most of the time I hit it right on the money. I've used that scale for over forty years and I've built up a pretty good feel for correcting charges to make the pointer line up just right. On top of that I reap the benefit of having a lot of the charges throwing right on instead of deliberately setting myself up to trickle up every one of them.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8 |
From an old thread: I use a Redding BR-30 and I do not tap, knock, whatever. I grasp the throw handle in such a way to make a slow, high torque back and forth motion. This avoids vibration and bumps when throwing long kernel extruded powders. The handle doesn't stop, it just shears right through. When I do weigh charges, rather than deliberately throwing short and trickling up I've found it faster to set the measure to throw right on with most deviations occurring on the high side. Then I just dump out what I believe to be an appropriate number of kernels and put the pan back on the 10-10 for confirmation. Most of the time I hit it right on the money. I've used that scale for over forty years and I've built up a pretty good feel for correcting charges to make the pointer line up just right. On top of that I reap the benefit of having a lot of the charges throwing right on instead of deliberately setting myself up to trickle up every one of them. Good post mathman. I think in reality, we all do things a little differently. Your way may take 6-8 seconds, as does mine. No one really wrong per se. Its about finding a routine that works for you. I am not one to dilly dally when it comes to reloading, I like keeping things sweet and to the point. Efficiency and accuracy are key. The funny thing is I am not nearly as critical as I used to be because of guys like you (mainly you) and your point of letting it go a tenth one way or the other. That essentially speeds up the process and you don't lose much, if any in terms of accuracy..
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 44,860 Likes: 4
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 44,860 Likes: 4 |
With respect to handloading techniques, I see it as "horses for courses" and what the shooter/rifle reasonably expect to resolve.
Erik Cortina isn't dipping powder with Lee scoops for 1000 yard F class matches, but a guy with a Savage 99 and a vintage Weaver 2.5x with a post reticle isn't netting any practical advantage from a Prometheus scale either.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,988 Likes: 3
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,988 Likes: 3 |
I read an article on weighing charges quite some time ago written by some reloading guru with a reputation of knowing what he is doing.... in any case, he suggested a technique to make your Uniflow work best with stick powders like H4831, which I use a lot, is to make quick, up and down movements and always in exactly the same motion so the charge bar would load the same each time and the drum would cut any kernels half in the opening without hanging up. I tried it and it works very well and I have continued to use this technique ever since. I can usually throw stick powders within about .2 grains if I pay attention, but I check them anyway and adjust if necessary.
I have found a weak point in my system quite a while ago though. My Ohaus 10-10 is a very good scale but I found it wasn't always settling like I wanted and I wasn't sure of my loads a few times. I looked in the cradle where the pivot rod sets and I realized there was a bit of dust in there. I used a qtip and a bit of alcohol and cleaned it out and the arm worked much better and settled more consistently. I still tap the arm once it has settled to make sure it settles in the same place before dumping my charge if I'm not comfortable with how it is acting but this usually takes care of the issue. I did buy one of those little electronic scales you can get on Amazon and ebay for about $20 just recently to check my 10-10 when I need to just as a back up.
Bob
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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1 member likes this:
bsa1917hunter |
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8 |
I read an article on weighing charges quite some time ago written by some reloading guru with a reputation of knowing what he is doing.... in any case, he suggested a technique to make your Uniflow work best with stick powders like H4831, which I use a lot, is to make quick, up and down movements and always in exactly the same motion so the charge bar would load the same each time and the drum would cut any kernels half in the opening without hanging up. I tried it and it works very well and I have continued to use this technique ever since. I can usually throw stick powders within about .2 grains if I pay attention, but I check them anyway and adjust if necessary.
I have found a weak point in my system quite a while ago though. My Ohaus 10-10 is a very good scale but I found it wasn't always settling like I wanted and I wasn't sure of my loads a few times. I looked in the cradle where the pivot rod sets and I realized there was a bit of dust in there. I used a qtip and a bit of alcohol and cleaned it out and the arm worked much better and settled more consistently. I still tap the arm once it has settled to make sure it settles in the same place before dumping my charge if I'm not comfortable with how it is acting but this usually takes care of the issue. I did buy one of those little electronic scales you can get on Amazon and ebay for about $20 just recently to check my 10-10 when I need to just as a back up.
Bob Good post buddy. I agree. I noticed the same thing with my 5-0-5 and do keep an eye on that piece of the scale. Works much better when it is clean.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,106 Likes: 8 |
I don't know about you guys, but I see a lot of monkey fu cking the foot ball idiots on youtube trying to operate a powder measure and scale. A lot of hand switching and fumbling going on. The way I have mine set up is about optimal. Based on some pictures I've seen here, I wonder how some of you do it. Some set ups look like knuckle busters and inefficiency. Not how I roll... I took some pictures the other day of my new set up. Just like the other one I had in Oregon. The funny thing while on the subject of using a powder measure. This is how far off I was in my initial setting with the regular ol uni flow: I was doing some load development for my 30-06, trying some Big Game powder, which drops like water out of a faucet. I counted how many adjustments I needed to get dialed in. 1 adjustment and I was "zeroed". Perfectly dialed for that powder. Then the next jump in charge weight was 1/2 grain. That took 2 adjustments. Check with scale and then reconfirm a couple times just for the hell of it. Next 1/2 grain increment took 1 adjustment, went like that for the next 3, 1/2 grain increments.. Pretty easy schidt, which I have found does not require the micrometer adjustment. That reminds me, I should sell that bastid. Its called the "UPM Mic Adjustment Screw LG". Part #98901. I don't need it.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 42,819 Likes: 4
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 42,819 Likes: 4 |
That you HAD in Oregon?
you didn't move on us did ya Lawrence?
"Minus the killings, Washington has one of the lowest crime rates in the Country" Marion Barry, Mayor of Wash DC
“Owning guns is not a right. If it were a right, it would be in the Constitution.” ~Alexandria Ocasio Cortez
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,344
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,344 |
Redding for me, for over 30 years.
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