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Gentlemen, I just purchased a 1961 99F in .243. It is early enough to have cut checkering and a brass mag rotary magazine. It is still in the mail but I suspect it will have a Chicopee marked barrel also. Will be a perfect match to my 99F .300 with the same features. Here is my question I intend to reload for it. A quick look at some reloading manuals looks like the max loads are better off used in bolt action rifles. I don't want sticky extraction and other pressure issues but I want the rifle for deer hunting. Would reducing he loads by say 5 to 8% be a good staring point? I guess I am asking how models 99 chambered in .243 handle factory loaded .243 in 100 grain hunting loads. I could load to match factory FPS ratings but my 99F has a 22" barrel and most manuals list 24" to 26" barres for load testing. Final question how fast does a 100 grain .243 bullet need to go to cleanly take woodland whitetails? Sorry for the long winded somewhat confusing post just curious.

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Darryl


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If you want deep penetration from a smaller diameter bullet, Nosler Partitions are what I use.

I'd start with the minimum recommended loads, maybe get them from 3 or 4 different bullet and powder manuals, and see how they compare, maybe take an average or whatever you feel comfortable with.

My current load for a 99DL in 243 is 33.0 grains of Varget under a 95 grain Partition. That is a below maximum recommended load, but it works fine in both the 99DL and multiple bolt actions. That load is still a little too hot for my Winchester 100, but that is a dedicated coyote hunting rifle, so lighter weight and constructed bullets are more in order.

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I load a grain under max with a Barnes 80, very accurate, no extraction issues. They go right through a 200 lb pigs shoulders.

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Factory loads should be fine. But if you're interested in reloading, do what most people do. Start at minimum and work up by 1/10ths of a grain or so until you find the accuracy for your particular rifle. If you're worried about sticky extraction, back off when you feel it. Always remember to read the empties to look for signs of trouble.

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Nice example of an early featherweight 99! Fun caliber (not as fun as the 250 SAVAGE..., but fun!)


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All good info and suggestions. Thankyou. Any bullet/load that will go through a pig's shoulders will definitely go through a whitetail.

Darryl


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A very fine specimen

The Nosler partition is a fine bullet and it will most likely give you 2 holes to bleed from unless it hits something hard and then it can provide spectacular DRT kills


Any of the 100 gr jacketed bullets will do nicely but most likely will not shoot through a big deer. One tiny .243 inch hole on dry leaves in thick cover can lead to a challenging recovery despite a good shot.

Just something to consider.


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I have hunted other .243's for a long time. Bolt guns and factory ammo. I always wait for a high shoulder shot to eliminate tracking. Most of our deer season there is lots of snow that helps a lot.

Darryl


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Originally Posted by madtrapper143
Gentlemen, I just purchased a 1961 99F in .243. It is early enough to have cut checkering and a brass mag rotary magazine. It is still in the mail but I suspect it will have a Chicopee marked barrel also. Will be a perfect match to my 99F .300 with the same features. Here is my question I intend to reload for it. A quick look at some reloading manuals looks like the max loads are better off used in bolt action rifles. I don't want sticky extraction and other pressure issues but I want the rifle for deer hunting. Would reducing he loads by say 5 to 8% be a good staring point? I guess I am asking how models 99 chambered in .243 handle factory loaded .243 in 100 grain hunting loads. I could load to match factory FPS ratings but my 99F has a 22" barrel and most manuals list 24" to 26" barres for load testing. Final question how fast does a 100 grain .243 bullet need to go to cleanly take woodland whitetails? Sorry for the long winded somewhat confusing post just curious.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Darryl


My first deer rifle! I started with a 99F 243 in 1959 and killed an antelope and a mule deer at age 12, the legal minimum in NV. I miss that little version 99. It was accurate and fast handling. We shot Remington 100gr ammo only, and it shot tight groups. I had a Weaver K4 on top.

Thanks for the post.

cool cool

Last edited by luv2safari; 05/04/22.

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Thank you all for the compliments on the rifle. I know that post mil 99's are not the most sought after but I have been lucky and have obtained two with the best pre mil features. The cut checkering and the brass rotor add class and the top tang safety is fast for jump shots and still hunting. I have a 1913 99H and a 1930 99E that I hold in high regard also. I guess I have to face the fact I just like Savage 99 models.

Darryl


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Originally Posted by madtrapper143
Thank you all for the compliments on the rifle. I know that post mil 99's are not the most sought after but I have been lucky and have obtained two with the best pre mil features. The cut checkering and the brass rotor add class and the top tang safety is fast for jump shots and still hunting. I have a 1913 99H and a 1930 99E that I hold in high regard also. I guess I have to face the fact I just like Savage 99 models.

Darryl


You and I would get along great. Good shooting Darryl!


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Blue Box federals in 100 grain if you don't get around to reloading will shoot like a dream, the two 243's i had in 99 both liked them real well, would shoot as well as i could hold it.

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I have ordered some Hornady 100 grain PSP bullets. I have some H4350 and lots of brass and primers. Locally all I can get for factory is Winchester 100 grain Power Point. I have had good luck with the old Power Point loads so I think a box or two would set me up. The rifle has arrived. It needed a good cleaning but is in very good shape. I noted it was missing the sear screw nut (from right side of receiver. Sear screw is tight but I ordered a new nut to complete the gun. Looks like the rifle was used for years without the nut securing the sear screw.

Darryl


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