Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Disassembly instructions?

Anyone have a link to some disassembly/cleaning instructions for a 99e?

"The butt stock is held on with a single long bolt. If you remove the butt stock, you will expose the gut's of the action and you can clean everything that needs cleaning without any further disassembly. As the others have mentioned, don't take the rotor apart unless it's broke." - Weagle

Ill add, from others experiance, Make sure your screwdriver is large enough to fit the screw slot and in the SLOT of the stock bolt, Not wedged in between the bolt head and wood when you turn it. Remove your stock carfully, pulling straight back, dont twist or pull sidways. Others have cracked stocks doing both of these things.

Spray the action out after the stock is off with some action cleaner and lightly oil with a quality gun oil.

When you put your stock back on, the bolt needs to be tight but not super crank her down crazy tight.

Have I missed anything guys?

Midway offers the Radocy takedown guides that are very helpful.
dave

Sounds easy enough. I've heard not to mess with the rotor: 20 minutes to take apart and half the day to put back together.

JonB,
Pad and clamp the rifle, muzzle down, in a good bench vise..or have an assistant hold the rifle so the butt is up.
Remove the buttplate, or recoil pad if their is one to expose the hole giving access to the large bolt holding buttstock to receiver.
Use a flashlite to look at the scre-bolt head.It's got a flat head slot which will require a stout screwdriver with 12" shank and a 1/2" WIDE BLADE TO FIT PROPERLY.

Assuming the stock has never been off before since assembly, a tiny drop of penetrating oil on the screw head applied with a straight piece of wire allowing the oil to travel down the wire to the bolthead can't hurt applied the night before.

Make certain the screwdriver fits the slot well.
Try just your hand strength to turn loosen the bolt.
IF this doesn't work, put a vise grip on the screwdriver handle for a bit mor leverage.
Again, once the bolt is removed, take great care in removing the stock gently REARWARD with no twisting..

For the new stock, you may find the thickness of wood thru which the bolt passes for connection to the receiver will vary depending on whose rep stock you get.
Make certain the new stock and old bolt allow the same protrusion of the bolt to receiver connection.
Your rep stock will need to be hand fitted for proper inletting I suspect and after at least a preliminary finishing, checkered to match original..Jim

here ya go
http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm
Steve

follow up question - the bolt holding the stock onto the receiver - is what is called a 'drawbolt?'

I was looking at Gunstocksinc for new wood and they have a few different options depending on certain measurements of the gun. One of the options was either a 8" drawbolt or a 5 1/4" drawbolt. I am guessing that is the bolt holding it together as common sense is telling me there isn't any other place an 8" bolt could be.

Other consideration is if I want the schnable fore end instead of the little 8" stubby one that is on there now.


Links to what I am looking at:
Forend
Stock

Yes, the 'drawbolt' length on your rifle needs to be determined so the proper buttstock can be supplied..else you could end up with a stock that has too much wood thickness (or too little) between bolt head inside the buttstock and receiver for bolt up..
Really need to remove the old stock and see..

Can't tell you whether changeing to the schnabel forend will work for your rifle..Jim

The forearm channel is probably the same (requires fitting). If the screw hole is pre-drilled then you will need to verify that it is in the correct location. Other than that, I don't see why you would have a problem using the schnobel style.