Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Turning Bolt Handle Question

Could anyone tell me the approximate cost of turning down the bolt handle on a Argentine Mauser and drilling and tapping for a scope? Any ideas on a gunsmith who would do this? Thanks

I can't speak for anyone else but I wouldn't do it for less than two cartons of large rifle primers (2000). There has to be some gunsmiths in Michigan who can do this. GD

Turning down, as in Forging it? I wouldn't have anyone do that. Better to have some one cut the old handle off and weld on a new one. You can try Jim Kobe.

The handle can be cut most of the way through, bent down (with some heat to ease things) and the resultant notch filled with weld. This gives enough length to the handle.
If this is a 91,93, 95 or 96 Mauser, the treatment is a little different than a Model 98. GD

That isn't really forging it, is it?

He didn't ask about forging. He asked about "turning down". Forging was brought into the conversation later on. My point is, there are choices, apart from forging or replacement, which are workable solutions. GD

greydog please post the other choices as I have an Chilean Mauser i am thinking to build.
thanks charlee

To me, unless the original knob is objectionable to the owner, the first choice is as I described. The second choice is to weld on a replacement handle. Third is to cut the original handle off and attach a replacement by tapping the base and screwing the new handle in place. High temp silver solder is another viable option. For this, the handle must mate very well to the base. With silver solder, the thinner the joint, the better. GD

First, when "turning down" a bolt handle it ends up being too short. Weld a new one on is the only reasonable way to alter the bolt handle. "..tapping the base and screwing on a new one...? WTF? And sliver solder?? We all know about Remington bolt handles. And they show if you want it blued. Jus my humble opinion.

Jim,
A question was asked and I answered it.
If the handle is cut most of the way through, bent down, and the notch filled with weld, the handle does not end up too short. In fact, the bottom side is the same length as it was, while the top is longer. I have been doing this on Mausers for forty-five years and it works out fine. Forging, with the use of forging blocks like those seen in the Brownells catalog, does produce a short handle and I don't like the result at all.
I have three custom actions which have bolt handles screwed into the base, which is integral with the bolt body (kind of like Kimber does it). Personally, I have always questioned the strength of these but failures seem rare unless under severe abuse.
Silver solder, if the joint is well done, does not come off. It is visible when blued and this is a consideration. Nonetheless it is a viable option. I have owned several BR actions (not Remingtons) which have silver soldered handles.
As I said earlier, there are always options; some of which are better than others. GD

There are choices, but IMO, only one good option these days: Welding on a new handle.


Turning down a handle, how else do you accomplish that without forging it? If you cut and weld, you ain't turning it down, you're welding it.

Your cut and weld, well, that's kind of a bastard solution. Like forging without heat, then welding. Seems like the worst of both worlds. You still end up with a shorter handle and really only one placement option.

My objection to forging is that the handle ends up too short. Sure, there are few folk remaining that are skilled enough to know that they have to also lengthen the handle to overcome the stubby handle that simply forging it over produces. But even then, that lengthening produces a handle that is thinner and less aesthetically pleasing. When forging, all too often, the root is deformed and it is easy to soften both the cocking and extraction cams. Too other the guy forging doesn't know enough to reharden both surfaces.

Cut and weld allows a wide choice of handle styles, placement, and length options. Modern TIG welding allows this to be accomplished quickly and without enough heat to anneal the camming surfaces.

Back to the OP's question, I used to charge $150 to weld on a new handle that will clear a low mounted scope and $20 per hole to drill and tap (in the correct position). Prices have gone up and skills have diminished since then. Brownells provides an guide to gunsmith pricing but it rarely seems to reflect real world pricing. Best bet is to connect with a smith of know talent, and ask them. pricing varies by location and other factors. Just cuz its expensive doesn't always mean its quality.

I have a guy in MI or WI ( I forget), that I am happy with. $85 + shipping. PM me if you want his info

I think Greydog gave an excellent answer. His description of cutting the bolt most of the way through bending at the cut and filling with a weld is the way I’d go. Cutting off and welding a new handle would be a good option. I don’t like the forging option for the reason GD gave.

I had a 98 bolt cut all the way through and re-welding it on, back when I was a kid. I always thought that bolt handle was too short. That way - I’d never have it done again.