Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Help finding correct contour barrel for a Heritage Laminate stock

I am building a rifle using a Mauser 98 commercial action. I already ordered the stock in the girlfriend's color choice and now I need to order a barrel. Boyd's information is less than stellar or helpful.

I am looking for an 8 twist 7mm barrel for what it is worth.

Have any of y'all deciphered their nonsensical information?

I would appreciate any help choosing the correct contour. There is right at .200" extra on each side, but I would prefer to keep it.

I am wanting the best barrel I can afford, but would like to stay under $700



Here is the actual measurements from the face of the action:

Are those lines 1" apart?

If you get a thinner barrel, bed it using enough dye to make
Your epoxy black.

It will match right in with your stock.

First of all you got things a little backward - in rifle projects you never ever chase the stock - the barreled action dictates all that follows. The order you have set, means that you find yourself having to procure a barrel to fit your stock. That has the potential of costing you money and time but more importantly could result in you not having a choice because you may be relegated to taking was is available that fits, notwithstanding your other constraints such as the quicker than average twist. That being said I'm sure that absent of any preliminary barrel channel dimensions from you, their default Contour #1 is not intended for anything other that the average, typical #3 sporter contour which for almost all but Bartlein results in a 2.8 to 3.2-lb 24-in finished barrel. (Bartlein's #2 and #2B are closer fits). The only drawback perception of laminated stocks is that they are heavy - heavier than what I'm not sure but I guess most of that comes from those who are used to lighter-weight composites. I can attest that literally no other carry stock is stronger or stiffer than laminate wood. However, your finished rifle could well end up weighing 9 to 10-lbs before the scope if you add a heavier sporter or target weight barrel. Not knowing what your GF prefers but I would make weight a factor in your barrel selection. I have an earlier Boyds Mauser classic-style wood stock that I use for external templating but the inletting is untouched. I did my measurements in Boyds locations A & B and ended up with 1.182 and 0.812 respectively. I suspect that your contour is probably the same as mine give or take a few thousandths here and there. I will drop in a few different barrels that I have and see if I have anything comes close to filling the channel keeping in mind a float allowance between o.20 and 0.40. I may end up being surprised and the contour you need may not be anything uncommon or hard to find.

What you can do in the meantime is to determine at what point measured from your receiver ring, does the transition begin. That is the point where the straight-line barrel shank section of the channel starts to curve inward. On my stock that point is at approximately 1.38-1.40 inches. The other location of note is that point where the transition has ended and the section referred to as the taper begins. To find this point place a small 2 to 3-inch straight edge against either inside edge of the barrel channel and slide it backwards (toward the receiver) until you can pinpoint where the transition gap first appears. If you use permanent ink, a little lacquer thinner on paper tissue, etc. will normally remove it - just don't over do it or you may dull your stock finish. Back to the front transition point, on my stock it's appears to be about 3.365 from the front receiver ring. (I strongly advise you base all your linear actual measurements from the same unchanging point and in this case, that's the front receiver ring. Also, I always take actual measurements whenever possible rather than assume derived or calculated measurements.) I have some other irons in the fire right now but I'll try to stay tuned to see what you come up with but if you need anything from me before hand, just PM and I should get a notice on my phone. Hope this is a help. Good luck.

PS. I have most of the major barrel makers and OEM's barrel contour dimensions so I should be able find at least dimensionally what your best fit standard contour is - without the need for additional or custom contouring.

I'm thinking that with that heavy bbl contour and laminated stock, you are going to have a rifle that is far too heavy for sporting use.

I'd re-think the whole project with a lighter contour and much lighter stock.

Ditto.

As Ofshoreman mentioned .You always start with the barrel and action. Buying a stock first is like buying a tires and then go find a truck they fit.

I’d pick a lightweight contour barrel and just have it be a generous free float in the barrel channel.
Also being laminate it’s very easy to sand a few spots like the shank area if your chosen barrel doesn’t fit exactly right.

I'll be the odd one out. I fit parts. If I have a stock or a tube, I make it work with my parts. These guys are right, it's got the makings of a 9 plus pound gun....but not many start a light rig on a mauser.

It gets tricky working backwards from a stock to the barrel....but not hard at all.

If those are an inch, I have a mc Gowan #3 that's within .150 at the measurements. There's a stainless proof here also about the same....all requiring shifting the shank around to work best.

Yes

Marks at 1" from the face of the receiver to the tip of the stock.

I am trying to get as close as possible and I know that I will have to open up the channel. I thought about a Sendero Lite contour carbon, this isn't going to be a light rifle by any means, everything about the action is steel and it's heavy as is.

I ended up with a #5 Brux, it should require minimum fitting.

Thanks for the help and the advice.