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GeneB Offline OP
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Saw this at a gunshow, not something I was looking hard for, in fact I didn't notice it myself but was told about it. After ignoring it most of the day I decided to get it just before the show closed for the day if it were still there. It's really nice condition with a perfect looking bore. This is the last version without the barrel band and the No 15 receiver sight. This version was never pictured in any catalog that I have seen.

[Linked Image]

I did a complete tear-down.
[Linked Image]

I found the barrel had been 'bedded' and the trigger 'adjusted' -
[Linked Image]

The trigger adjustment was a piece of plastic taped with a piece of fiberglass reinforced tape, the adhesive on the tape had failed long ago.
[Linked Image]

It looked like it might have an adjustment screw for the sear engagement but it's a fixed pressed in pin.
[Linked Image]

The numbers on the stock & buttplate seem to have no relation to the serial number.
[Linked Image]

These late versions were drilled & taped for a side mount scope as well as for both the No 10 and No 15 sight.
The No 10 sight uses one #12 screw and one #6, the No 15 uses two #6-48's.
[Linked Image]
There also are two #6-48 holes for a front scope block.

Here's the earlier version with the barrel band and the No 10 sight.
[Linked Image]

ADDED after reading next post - it has only the two holes for the No 10 sight at the rear of the receiver, a #12-36 and a #6-48. There are scope block made for these holes.

Last edited by GeneB; 07/22/22. Reason: added note

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Nice and thanks for posting. I have one I think is an early version. It has the barrel band but only two instead of three holes at the top rear of the receiver. It's always a hoot opening up a gun and finding past handiwork from a "gunsmith" of sorts!


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I have always assumed that my 19-33 is an early version because of the two vs three hole configuration allowing only for the No. 10 sight, however I have never checked the serial number against a list for the production run. Is there any such list?


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They started making the 19-33 at 40,000. I had read that, but, Gene reminded me when I bought my 33 with serial 40,024. Gene coached me a bit on this one when I bought it last year. I believe it has all the early features of this variant. I think it came out of John Wright's collection. I bought a 1923, the 33 and a Stevens 414 armory all within a few weeks and kind of forget off hand, which one came from which sale.

Last edited by JoeMartin; 07/23/22.

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I picked up another 1933 tonight. I couldn’t decide which one to put my 10X Fecker on. My 1919, 1923, and early 19-33 all have the original sights on them and I don’t want to take them off. This one has a side mount and newer scope, no rear sight. So, it will be getting the Fecker.


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I was at the auction house 15 minutes after they opened. This rifle is in pretty good shape except the 3 holes fom the N2 side mount. Turns out the 19-33 uses the same blocks as the 23D Hornet.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Sweet!


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Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Very nice, Joe.

For those unfamiliar with Feckers, they are on par with Unertls of their era. In fact, John Unertl got his start working for Fecker before going off on his own. That cylindrical object in the middle of the tube is the parallax adjuster.


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Of which, you must instruct me on how to use?


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Damn Joe.

Nice snag.

Gene got him a good one too...


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Very nice, Joe.

For those unfamiliar with Feckers, they are on par with Unertls of their era. In fact, John Unertl got his start working for Fecker before going off on his own.

I wonder if Unertl left because he was a mother Fecker to work for?


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Just had to be done Randy. LOL.


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Originally Posted by steve99
Just had to be done Randy. LOL.



cool


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Originally Posted by JoeMartin
Of which, you must instruct me on how to use?

Be glad to. In a nutshell, first make sure the locking rings at both ends of the parallax adjusting slide are operable. Then loosen both of them way back. Then look through the scope at the target and move your eye around, and if the crosshairs move with your eye the parallax needs adjusted. Slide the adjuster back and forth until the crosshairs stay put when you move your eyeball. At that point twist both locking rings up snug from each end. Done. At this point parallax is set for that particular distance. When you move to different shooting distances you'll have to re-adjust parallax, probably. Unertls and Lymans are the same, but adjustment is done differently. Not a huge issue though for casual plinking or hunting, but in a match it can be where the difference between 1st and 5th place can be measured in 1/10's of an inch.

Before you do this though, position the scope where you will use it when shooting. In the pic it looks awfully far back. Then before adjusting parallax at the target range, focus the crosshairs by looking through it at blue sky and turn the ocular lens in or out until the crosshairs are sharply focused. At that point the scope is focused for your eye.


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Thanks. I’ll bring it next time we have lunch.


I'm not greedy, I just want one of each.

Remember Ira Hayes

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Very nice find, I have four of the full stock model 19s, Still looking for a 19/33 like yours. Used to see them often at shows,,,not so much lately



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