Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Jard Trigger kit in a Ruger #1

I'm having my smith put one of these in this new to me 1S. Hopefully it will end up where I like them ( or can live with it). I "prefer" around 2.5# to 2.75#/creep free in a rifle like this one. Its right at 5 3/4# and creepy as it is...eww. ha What's been your experience with them anyone?

I have installed Jard triggers in several No 1's. My first was a 1V .220 Swift. I installed a 1.75lb model in this rifle but set the final weight around 1.5lbs (measured with a wheeler scale). It was a HUGE improvement over the factory trigger. So much so that I swapped Jard triggers into two more of my other No 1's--another 1V and a 1AH. I even have another trigger on hand planned to be installed in my 1S .35 Whelen.

Once you get the sear engagement screw and over travel screw dialed in, the feel is a tremendous improvement. Not sure what your smith is charging you to do the replacement. If you're handy with tools and have a way to measure the pull weight, it is a pretty easy job to do with the simple instructions that Jard provides.

Very much enjoy the one I put in my No 1, it was a snug fit and had to be filed a little to clear in a couple spots. Called Jard and they told me this was a rare occurrence. Much improved feel and weight compared to the factory trigger.

Thanks guys. I'm more of a "rough carpenter" than a "fine furniture builder", ha Way too butter fingered to mess with triggers...OR I'm just way too OCD about it! On the plus side, he is super reasonable rate wise. He put a Jard in a Hawkeye 77 338 RCM for me last year, with great results. I am pleased to hear they work well in the No.1's also. Thanks again guys!

I had a Jard installed in my #1 218 bee. I believe it’s the 2.75 pound model. It’s close to the advertised pull weight and a big improvement over the original.

I just installed one on a rifle I just had barreled in 6mm CM. I went with the 3-1/2 lb. The crux of the install is the one pivot pin which is press fitted. Took a good wack with sufficient support below to loosen it up.

I plan on getting Jards for the other two No. 1s that I have.

One adjustment that had me scratching my head is the safety catch adjustment. Seems that it needs to be set before install as there is now way to get a Allen wrench on it afterwards.

Interesting topic. I never checked the trigger pulls on the couple No.1's I have (a 6.5x55 and .250-3000, both 1A's), and I'll be darned they're both 4 pounds. I never felt discomoded by these pulls but now that I know what they are it'll bug me. Looking into the Jard. The Campfire spends more of my money than my GF does.

^ Yeah they're not difficult to install, just very frustrating. One step forwards, three steps back. Felt like I had to keep starting over with each new step in the install process. Then you get the safety and they tell you to do something you can't.


I have one in a rifle I'm about to sell. But I'm just being lazy not wanting to take it out. I doubt selling it with will raise the price any, and I could put it in another rifle. But the memory of installing it has me thinking "oh just leave it in and write it off".

("about to sell" since November. Like I said, being lazy)

I have replaced the factory triggers in two of my No. 1's with Jards.
If you take the time to watch the videos available on how to do it, it is not a difficult task, but I will admit the 2nd one went a bit smoother than the first!
End result was totally crisp, creep-free triggers that break right at 2 lbs., and have greatly improved the accuracy of both my No. 1's.

Did a Jard in my Cooper 57m, breaks aroung 5oz, original had the worst creep ever, major improvement.

So with the JARD I just installed on my project rifle, The initial install went great. I had to remove everything to fit and bed the stock to the action. When I installed it, that little screw that engages the safety somehow worked itself down too far and caused problems with the trigger. That little screw needs to have about equal parts sticking out both sides and glued in good with loctite. Mine was a loose fit and it seemed to have moved downward. I had to remove everything today and correct it, but it is back to being a great trigger.

My smith is very good about that. He likes to use clear nail polish instead of Loctite. "My problem" is he is so busy, my rifle is still in his shop and "I'm itching all over to shoot it", lol. Thanks for the info guys, helps me know what to keep an eye out for, etc.

Interesting post, I never knew there was a trigger option for a #1. Always liked their look and have a lefty son so maybe an option for him. I use really light triggers so the reports of how bad the #1 trigger is chased me away from them. I’d read maybe in here that messing with the factory trigger was not easy. Should’ve kept the Bullberry TC my oldest started with but seem to spend my time chasing the right gun only to realize the ones I sold are now needed again.

Put a Jard in my 6.5x55 #1 a couple years back. Great decision, took an awful creepy heavy trigger and made it a 3 lb glass rod. I bought the gun hands untouched b/c the wood - it is the full stock model - is gorgeous. About cried when I tried to be accurate with the POS original trigger. Now my favorite deer gun.. Easy to do, couple hours one night just to be slow/careful.

RAS

Got the rifle back, sweet indeed! Breaks super crisp. I'm right at 1.25#. I like a very light trigger for certain kinds of shooting. I won't be cruising Dark Timber with this rifle, its more a Range and a bit of hayfield elk shooting! ha Anyhow, I was surprised at just how good this Jard trigger is. Thanks for the info guys!