Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Universal joints ? Sealed or grease able ?

Non greaseable and ungreases greaseable last about the same length of time.

Seals are way different between the 2

Seals seam to matter less than balance and alignment.

It amazes me how crooked a factory driveline is. Weights all over the fugger trying to get it close. Dodges have been the worst

I haven't changed mine on my F-150 w/190K miles.

Myself I stick with the same parts that the vehicle came with when possible. Came with sealed, sealed will be the replacement part.

Although when I had the front-end redone Moog parts were used, I couldn't find the rubber boots and it drives me crazy seeing the open joints and such.
Anything that keeps dirt out is a good thing.

How do you guys determine when U-Joints are worn out?

Play in them obviously. But alot of times they will take on a tanish dusty look as they start getting hot

tikkanut;
Good evening to you again, thanks for the reply.

I've enjoyed your photos of the Utah backcountry as it's so very different from what we've got up here anywhere.

We're usually out of cell service here in BC and sorta used to it. There isn't good cell service in all spots down in the Okanagan Valley which is the second most populated area in BC, so that sort of says volumes about Canadian rural cell coverage.

That said, most places we hunt wouldn't be 100 miles to walk out, though 50 would be not uncommon.

Scenery photo just because - we're maybe 3 or 4 hours walk out here if the truck breaks.



The other thing that I find interesting about watching videos like Fab Rats or Matt's Off Road Recovery is that there's actually someone to call to come get one out of a fix. That's not an option here in our part of BC, so if you aren't prepared to walk out and use the "call a friend" option - well that's your only option actually.

Anyways as always there's many roads that lead to Mecca and all that - some likely driven with rigs powered with greaseable u-joints no doubt.

All the best and thanks again.

Dwayne

Those greaseable U joints have to be installed/orientated correctly for best strength... Ii's easy to install them backwards... Something to do with the orientation of the zerk hole... It's been awhile, I forget the details... Look it up...

Never heard that one before. Install them in backwards and it can be a bitch to grease though

mud bogger,

Thanks, mine are tight, no heat coloring.
Sometimes it's hard to believe how long parts last compared to cars/trucks from the 60-70-80's era. When JAA-pan started taking a major cut of the automotive market from the American manufacturers they got on the ball with long-lasting vehicles.

On the lift, if I see that color its just kinda a red flag, as bearings dont get that hot if things are good. The yoke will be that color as well sometimes


I see alot of rigs come in with 225k+ on factory ujoints. Which are mainly sealed spicers. Buy them from the dealer and they are just repackaged spicers

Just looked it up... For maximum U joint strength you want the grease zerk under compression by the driveshaft as it is turning to move the vehicle...

Interesting..gotta link?

No, I just googled it... I have the internet skill of Jed Clampett...

LOL, copy

How would it not be under compression? The damn thing is spinning

I don't know what this means ?

Reading a bit. Seems you want your driveline yoke to be turning into the zerk. Not sure if I buy it. Seems like people nit picking schit that doesnt really matter

Yeah, It confuses me also but it made sense when i did it... Got this from hot rod magazine tech tips yrs ago... Seen it written and online many times since...

Im always up to learn something new. But that just seems like a few folks coming up with fixes to things that have never happened.

I think it was with the instructions with the last set of U joints i installed?.. I don't remember the brand... Might have been Strange Engineering in IL... Not sure...