Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns New to me rimfire J frame - working out the kinks

Recently inherited a S&W 34-1. On the outside it looks to be in excellent condition - almost like new. I put some rimfire snap caps inside. The action is very (not sure the best words for it) rough and clunky. The trigger pull is heavy (as expected). Very stagy. The trigger snaps back all the way to the back of the trigger guard (pinches very bad without very careful finger placement on the trigger ). The reset is very sticky and seems to have two stages to it.

I've never owned a rimfire DA revolver or a J frame so I'm not sure what to expect. I'm thinking it could use a trip to a reputable revolver gunsmith to smooth things out and lighten things up but not so much that we have ignition issues.

I've also never taken a revolver apart. Could this potentially benefit from cleaning/maintenance that I could do? Like I said, the revolver looks immaculate on the outside. It belonged to an older family member who I don't think handled it since he bought it 30 plus years ago.

Or does all this sound like par for the course for a rimfire J frame? I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.

You could take off the grips and let it soak in mineral spirits for a day or two, then blow it out and re-oil it, inside and out. A buddy of mine used to do that with every new Smith he bought, and it seemed to really help, particularly with a 4" M29 he bought. It was a bit rough, and came out of the bath slick and smooth. Probably some shavings or whatever during assembly. He was working in an auto shop, and just dunked it in the parts washer for awhile.
It's not that big a deal to take the sideplate off a Smith, but it's gotta be done right or you'll muck it up. Try the bath first, then see if it needs anything. If there is any dried protective oil from the factory inside, it will take awhile to dissolve, so let it sit in the bath awhile. It might help a little, or a lot. Then re-assess whether you need a smith.

As far as trigger reach, different grips will definitely help in that regard, you might try some decent wood grips from Herrett or Hogue, and see if they help.

Not hard to get inside, but you need correct size/fit screwdriver bits and rubber or plastic mallet to help loosen side plate. Rubber handle of screwdriver can be a mallet. The only thing to watch out for is putting back in bar safety correctly. Keep track of which screws go into which holes and replace them into original holes. YouTube is your friend. Good luck.

Take it apart and clean and lube it.

Don’t pry the side plate!

Hank

Jerry shows how to understand the smith trigger in his “Trigger Job” dvd. It is unfortunately out of stock. This one will show you how to take yours apart.
revolver

As said above use the right screw drivers. And don’t pry anything.

Is there a S&W specific set of screwdrivers that I need or would a general set of gunsmith bits probably work?

S&Ws used to come with a little aluminum handled screwdriver but it was too small to handle stubborn screws. I've got a set of Grace screwdrivers that work well for US guns. If you have or acquire Uberti, AyA, Belgian Brownings etc, Brownells screwdriver set for the Auto Five will handle about all of them.

Anytime I add an older S&W to the pile, I pull the guts and scrub the frame & internals with a good grease cutter. That's a good time to replace the mainspring and trigger return springs, along with the cylinder locking bolt spring if it's the least bit sluggish in operation.

ETA- Don't forget to oil everything before you reassemble it.

I’m conflicted- it all sounds very intimidating (would hate to mess up a revolver with sentimental value) but you’ve gotta learn somehow. This is one of two revolvers we inherited - this along with an older 66. It would be worth understanding better how they work.

By all means, try soaking it first in mineral spirits, a gallon is cheap, cheap, cheap, and you can strain any large particulates out with cheesecloth and re-use it till too much of it evaporates. This isn't as hard as it's made out to be, but as noted above, do NOT pry off the sideplate, and the screws ARE site-specific, put the same screws back in the holes you took them out of. I'm sure there are youtube videos on this, go for it. Just be prudent and careful.

If you’re uneasy about a complete disassembly I’d find an experienced S&W revolver smith or spend some time reading Jerry Kuhnhausen’s excellent book.

All the vintage 34’s that haven’t been fired much (that I’ve disassembled) looked like varnish inside or are completely dry. Rimfire J frames aren’t known for their smooth actions, due to the higher weight springs. They can be improved some, but not much.

Do not swap the yoke screw with another screw, it is fitted to the yoke and will make a mess of the yoke end shake and correct drag of the opening of the cylinder. I’ve seen dozens ruined because some “gunsmith” or owner didn’t know.

Brownell’s has a set of S&W revolver specific screwdrivers, they fit the best of any I’ve used.

Most any Smith can benefit from some stoning and cleaning.

If you don’t know how to do that, send it to somebody that does.

What effect would mineral spirits have on the bluing on the revolver?

Zero effect, that's why I suggested it. Cylinder and Slide shop sells it as "Dunkit" in a bucket, with some lubricant additives, he wouldn't do that if it would hurt stuff he sold. He charges a lot for his knowledge. Go to the hardware store, it's cheaper there.

Always, ALWAYS, try the cheapest solution first, if it doesn't work, you're not out much money, if it does work, you're golden.
DO take the stocks off before soaking it, it probably wouldn't hurt the finish on the stocks, but why take the chance?

This video has a lot of good info. He’s a bit more conservative than Jerry M but shows the inside and how it all works quite well.

smith revolver disassembly

Jesus Christ…

Can’t learn if you don’t ask…

What kind of Deacon takes the name of his Lord in vain ? Oh never mind I forgot he's only a fake deacon, the 'Fire's village idiot and post count king.

You’re the one that claims to be a gunsmith.

Help him out.

LOL

The internals of a S&W revolver aren't all that complicated. I had an old 3" J frame years ago that I would disassemble on a regular basis to polish on the internals. Once you get the side plate off the hammer and trigger just lift out of it. There's a rectangular block behind the trigger with a hole lenghwise that holds a spring that returns the trigger to position. It's under tension but it's not difficult to remove and replace. The J frames have a coil hammer spring as opposed to the flat hammer springs in K&L frames. But it's not difficult to remove and reassemble into place either.

To remove the side plate, remove the screws, turn the side plate down, then peck on the opposite side with the wooden handle of a hammer until it falls loose.

After taking one apart the first time it's like riding a bicycle. You never forget.