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Alaskan guide that I've used for 8 trips recommends a big jar of Vaseline - just for your boots. All else is way too expensive.

Straight beeswax cajoled with a hairdryer into a pair of Alico Guide mountain boots lasted four straight years of glacier sheep hunts. Rubber rands take a beating there...the rocks just slide over the wax.

There's a lot more oil and solvent in the normal treatments than meets the eye. Takes a lot to get beeswax to flow at finger rub temperature.

How do I condition the leather on my boots?

To prevent irreparable damage such as flaked, cracked, or excessively dry leather, it is important to condition your boots regularly. If you're in and out of water or mud often, you'll want to condition more frequently (once or twice a month). Do not let your boots sit for periods of time with mud, concrete powder, wood pulp/dust, fuel, or mechanical oils on them. These substances are notorious for their ability to dry, harden, and cause lasting damage to leather.

Conditioning any boot will darken the color of the leather, so first test on a small section hidden away to ensure you're okay with the end result. You can condition nubuck, suede, and rough-out leathers with a standard leather conditioner, but it will discolor the boot even more than full-grain leathers. Additionally, nubuck, suede, and rough-out leathers aren't as susceptible to cracking as smooth, top-side leather is. We recommend using our Suede and Nubuck Waterproofing Conditioner spray, specially formulated for these types of leathers, to minimize a change in look of the leather.

If your boot is lined with a waterproof membrane (has either a GORE-TEX or Danner Dry waterproof liner) we recommend using a conditioner that's water or silicone-based (check the label to ensure it's one of the first ingredients) to maintain the breathability of the boot. Try to avoid animal-based products like beeswax and mink oil. Our Danner Boot Dressing offers three benefits: it conditions, waterproofs, and adds a little shine back into the leather. The dressing is offered in three different colors: black for black boots, brown for dark brown boots, and clear for all other colors. If you're looking for a more natural finish without influencing the color of your boots, it is recommended that you use the clear boot dressing.
To apply conditioner to your boots, you’ll first want to take the laces out and make sure the boots are dry and clear of any dust, dirt, and debris. Take a clean, dry rag and work an even coat of dressing over the entire leather portion of your boot. You will only need to use a small amount. You can use a cotton swab or soft bristled toothbrush to get to the hard-to-reach spots between stitching and hardware. Once you cover the entire boot, let the boot rest overnight or until completely dry, wiping off any excess conditioner that didn't absorb.

I keep adding coats of Obenaufs until the leather won’t absorb anymore, and it does build up to a surface layer.

This is from Danner's website. Here's the link to their boot care FAQ's: DANNER Note that they say to avoid mink oil and beeswax on Gore-tex type liners.

For many years Danners were and remain my favorite boot. For over 30 years beeswax has been the only thing I have used on them. They now last virtually forever, maybe Danner has an ulterior motive?

There is a problem applying beeswax over Obenauf's. Because there is a bunch of solvents in there which will wick to the surface when you heat the leather. The beeswax will not soak in as well and it will be contaminated by the solvents. The treatments will not be as effective in the early going and will probably require coats sooner than if starting with fresh leather. But it will eventually get the junk out.

Alright I’ll give it a try next time I treat boots. Looks like you, Okanagan and BC30cal all have positive experiences with it. Thanks.

Obenaufs LP contains no solvents. At least according to them, or the MSDS.

I usually just use a hair dryer to warm the boot and melt the wax. It takes longer but the house does not burn down. When melting wax I use a very small crackpot to melt the wax. No open flame and after I am done I add mineral oil to the wax to make cutting board finish. This makes cleanup easy on the little crockpot.

Waxed leather gloves are fantastic if you break them in during summer.

For many years Danners were and remain my favorite boot. For over 30 years beeswax has been the only thing I have used on them. They now last virtually forever, maybe Danner has an ulterior motive?